[C1] Engine stamp
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 1,617
Likes: 442
From: Oklahoma
C1 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Engine stamp
With all the discussion of Vin tags and engine pad stamps, I would really appreciate some comments on mine. I just spoke with the previous owner, prior to the dealer who sold the car to me and he informed me my car as a Muncie close ratio and not the T-10, as the dealer said. Might be wrong info as he only owned it for less than a year and I'll check it this weekend. Also, spoke with the previous owner of 15 years a few weeks ago and he made no comment about the tranny. Both say it has the original engine.
But, now I'm wondering if the engine pad looks like it's stamped correctly. Would appreciate some educated comments on it. Also, it looks to me this engine was built in mid December 1961.....is that what you see? My car was built last week of December 1961 with Vin of 104470.
Thanks,
Butch
But, now I'm wondering if the engine pad looks like it's stamped correctly. Would appreciate some educated comments on it. Also, it looks to me this engine was built in mid December 1961.....is that what you see? My car was built last week of December 1961 with Vin of 104470.
Thanks,
Butch
Last edited by Dreaming60’s; Nov 20, 2022 at 10:49 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 651
Butch, gently clean the paint off the pad if you want a real opinion. Characters can give us insight, but the pad surface is the total package on being able to determine what you have. Use soft rag and do not rub aggressively. Pad finish and broaching will guide a pro in an opinion. Regards. ARA
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 1,617
Likes: 442
From: Oklahoma
C1 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Thanks you guys! I didn't realize it was this intense about broach marks as such. I tried to rub the paint off after this photo was taken with a scotch bright pad but it just removed a little paint and I stopped. Is paint remover okay as long as i'm careful to not get it on any other surfaces. We use a special aircraft paint remover at our business and it seems to remove any paint in a minute.
Butch
Butch
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,257
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From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
Thanks you guys! I didn't realize it was this intense about broach marks as such. I tried to rub the paint off after this photo was taken with a scotch bright pad but it just removed a little paint and I stopped. Is paint remover okay as long as i'm careful to not get it on any other surfaces. We use a special aircraft paint remover at our business and it seems to remove any paint in a minute.
Butch
Butch
Larry
EDIT: I have actually seen folks use a quarter or a knife blade at NCRS events years ago just before judging to remove the paint. In a few cases the paint was recently added to help disguise the recent stampings.
Last edited by Powershift; Jun 14, 2018 at 03:05 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 651
DON'T USE SCOTCHBRITE or sandpaper or anything other than a soft facecloth or t shirt. Anything abrasive may damage possible broach marks you may have. Soft cloth, lacquer thinner and patience. I wouldn't even put too much finger pressure on it while rubbing to be honest with you.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,257
Likes: 2,124
From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
All that is true............
IF you remove the paint from the pad, then by all means use Vaseline or Prelube6 or engine oil or similar to treat the pad to prevent rusting. And then you get to do the same every 6 months or so afterwards.......especially if you live in high humidity area.
I am almost sorry I did it myself...........but now I have to live with it.
Larry
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 1,617
Likes: 442
From: Oklahoma
C1 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
DON'T USE SCOTCHBRITE or sandpaper or anything other than a soft facecloth or t shirt. Anything abrasive may damage possible broach marks you may have. Soft cloth, lacquer thinner and patience. I wouldn't even put too much finger pressure on it while rubbing to be honest with you.
Butch
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 1,617
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From: Oklahoma
C1 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I'm prepared to take bad news. I just want to know for sure what I bought! If the engine isn't numbers matching, like it was represented to be, I'll just go another direction with the car and not worry about any modifications I do. Actually it takes the pressure off and the guilt of "maybe" installing R&P, disc brakes and other mods. The pisser is the dealer I bought it from should know better and most likely did. The truth will set me free. 
Butch
Butch
Team Owner
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From: Various places in Southern California.
It's not fully dispositive of the issue, but have you checked the block casting date? If it's appropriate, that will help settle things a bit and if it's a later block, well, you'll know the answer....
Team Owner
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From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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2015 C2 of Year Finalist
Holy Smoley, I do need to be gentle! Are broach marks struck into the pad or inked on? I know from the fellow who bought the car in early 2000's, that the engine was "supposed" to be rebuilt just before he got it. I have receipts for a top OH, but don't see any lower end work. Since the pad stamping is lighter (in my opinion) at the engine HP identification end of the number (RC, RD, RH, etc.) than the other end I wondered if the block maybe was decked.
Butch
Butch
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2018
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From: Oklahoma
C1 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Okay, need to pick up some lacquer thinner tomorrow and I'll clean off the pad. Found the block casting number of 3782870 behind the L/H head and believe it means it is a 1962-65 327, but where do I find the 3 digit casting date number? I also found a 12: above the starter, but not sure that means anything.
Butch
Butch
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 54,023
Likes: 9,380
From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
Okay, need to pick up some lacquer thinner tomorrow and I'll clean off the pad. Found the block casting number of 3782870 behind the L/H head and believe it means it is a 1962-65 327, but where do I find the 3 digit casting date number? I also found a 12: above the starter, but not sure that means anything.
Butch
Butch
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2005
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Likes: 2,124
From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
Okay, need to pick up some lacquer thinner tomorrow and I'll clean off the pad. Found the block casting number of 3782870 behind the L/H head and believe it means it is a 1962-65 327, but where do I find the 3 digit casting date number? I also found a 12: above the starter, but not sure that means anything.
Butch
Butch
You may need a rag to clean area and a good flashlight. Engine casting month COULD be a J or K for your car as well as an L. Look carefully.
Good luck.
Larry
Last edited by Powershift; Jun 15, 2018 at 05:03 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 1,617
Likes: 442
From: Oklahoma
C1 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Just looked and that will require the removal of the PCV breather tube, so another tomorrow job when I take it down off the race ramps. Just confirmed it does have a Muncie, so no matching numbers T-10, like it was represented. Not going to be a judged car and from what I've heard the Muncie is a better transmission, so decisions are getting easier.
Changing the topic a little, but is there any way to tell from the outside if I have a 2:20 or a 2:54 tranny? Maybe I should start a new thread?
Butch
Changing the topic a little, but is there any way to tell from the outside if I have a 2:20 or a 2:54 tranny? Maybe I should start a new thread?
Butch