[C2] Muncie Gurus
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 489
Likes: 31
From: Hilbert WI
Muncie Gurus
I am in the process of installing the engine and m20 back into my 67. both have been rebuilt. I am running into an issue with the output shaft yoke not going in far enough. It goes in about 1 5/8".
Wondering if someone knows what I can check? The person who built the trans is closed for the weekend and am hoping to get it going by saturday or sunday.
John
Wondering if someone knows what I can check? The person who built the trans is closed for the weekend and am hoping to get it going by saturday or sunday.
John
Last edited by johngandersonjr; Jun 15, 2018 at 07:50 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 951
From: Corpus Christi, TX
Your tail shaft bushing might have an undersized bore. It happens every so often. If you're brave enough to pull the tail shaft housing off you can check it by trying to put the yoke in the bare housing. You can check the splines on the tail shaft as well.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,000
Likes: 659
From: Puget Sound
If you talking about the driveshaft yoke not going all the way in, that's a common problem. The seam on the tailshaft bushing needs to have the high spots removed before installation or this problem will rear it's ugly head. I always check the yolk fitment after installing in the bushing prior to assembling the transmission. I recently bought a brand new Tremec TKO 600 that had the same problem. Fortunately, even though they only have a 90 warranty and it was well over a year later as this was a custom build, Tremec paid to have the bushing replaced.
Another cause could be twisted splines on the shaft but I've only seen that on BW T-10's
Another cause could be twisted splines on the shaft but I've only seen that on BW T-10's
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 489
Likes: 31
From: Hilbert WI
If you talking about the driveshaft yoke not going all the way in, that's a common problem. The seam on the tailshaft bushing needs to have the high spots removed before installation or this problem will rear it's ugly head. I always check the yolk fitment after installing in the bushing prior to assembling the transmission. I recently bought a brand new Tremec TKO 600 that had the same problem. Fortunately, even though they only have a 90 warranty and it was well over a year later as this was a custom build, Tremec paid to have the bushing replaced.
Another cause could be twisted splines on the shaft but I've only seen that on BW T-10's
Another cause could be twisted splines on the shaft but I've only seen that on BW T-10's
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,000
Likes: 659
From: Puget Sound
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 489
Likes: 31
From: Hilbert WI
Originally Posted by 1snake
If the bushing is the issue, there's a special tool that allows the bushing to be removed without removing or dis-assembling the transmission. Maybe your trans. builder has access to one and it can be replaced while still in the car. I know this doesn't help you for this week-end but it beats pulling the trans.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,138
Likes: 39
From: Florida
If the tranny is out of the car, and you feel like you want to take the tail off here’s how you do it.
Put the tranny in reverse. (Shift lever forward)
Flip trans over, drive out shift shaft retaining pin. (Bottom to top)
Unbolt 6? Bolts noting length.
Pull shift lever out.
Tail comes off.
If your worried about the gasket/tear it up, pm your address I’ll send you one free.
I have spares.
Reinstall is the same as above but in reverse.
Any more questions? I’ll answer them.
Put the tranny in reverse. (Shift lever forward)
Flip trans over, drive out shift shaft retaining pin. (Bottom to top)
Unbolt 6? Bolts noting length.
Pull shift lever out.
Tail comes off.
If your worried about the gasket/tear it up, pm your address I’ll send you one free.
I have spares.
Reinstall is the same as above but in reverse.
Any more questions? I’ll answer them.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,138
Likes: 39
From: Florida
Did the bushing move further down the tail? Or stay in the same place?
If it moved, your going to have to take it off.
If it stayed in the same place, your good.
The bushing is there to hold the yoke so you don’t tear up the seal.
Was it light taps or were you putting minor *** behind the hammer?
If it moved, your going to have to take it off.
If it stayed in the same place, your good.
The bushing is there to hold the yoke so you don’t tear up the seal.
Was it light taps or were you putting minor *** behind the hammer?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 489
Likes: 31
From: Hilbert WI
Did the bushing move further down the tail? Or stay in the same place?
If it moved, your going to have to take it off.
If it stayed in the same place, your good.
The bushing is there to hold the yoke so you don’t tear up the seal.
Was it light taps or were you putting minor *** behind the hammer?
If it moved, your going to have to take it off.
If it stayed in the same place, your good.
The bushing is there to hold the yoke so you don’t tear up the seal.
Was it light taps or were you putting minor *** behind the hammer?
I do not think the bushing moved.
once I got the yoke through the bushing the tapping was easier.
shaft still turn easy with my hand.
Last edited by johngandersonjr; Jun 16, 2018 at 10:38 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 10,752
Likes: 2,196
From: Golden Colorado
No no no
The slip yoke must slide in and out freely on the splines. Hence the name slip yoke. Probably best to put the hammer away.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 489
Likes: 31
From: Hilbert WI
i have the yoke in and drive shaft in.
I had to tap it in. I could not push it in with my hand.
I called my builder and he said that it should not be that tight, but if i feel that I can get it in, without moving the bushing I should be ok.
driveshaft and wheels still rotate normally.
I had to tap it in. I could not push it in with my hand.
I called my builder and he said that it should not be that tight, but if i feel that I can get it in, without moving the bushing I should be ok.
driveshaft and wheels still rotate normally.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 10,752
Likes: 2,196
From: Golden Colorado
You missed the point - picture this
Think of a car with parallel leaf rear springs. Like an early Camaro. The front spring mount is fixed. The rear spring mount is mounted on a hinge shackle. When the rear wheel goes up and down it causes the rear axle to travel in an arc. When it does the drive shaft must lengthen and shorten. Thus the need for a slip yoke to allow for this change. It should slide in and out freely. Hope that helps.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 5,415
Likes: 1,218
From: Glen Allen VA
Think of a car with parallel leaf rear springs. Like an early Camaro. The front spring mount is fixed. The rear spring mount is mounted on a hinge shackle. When the rear wheel goes up and down it causes the rear axle to travel in an arc. When it does the drive shaft must lengthen and shorten. Thus the need for a slip yoke to allow for this change. It should slide in and out freely. Hope that helps.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 489
Likes: 31
From: Hilbert WI
My engine builder wants me to put 50 miles on the engine and then change oil. I will pull the driveshaft after 50 miles and see what is going on.
I agree with the comment above about not wanting the bushing to wear into the yoke.