1963 instrument cluster removal
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
1963 instrument cluster removal
Is there a how-to video of '63 dash removal? I know its best to remove seat and steering wheel but does column also need to be taken out? Input appreciated. begee22
#2
Team Owner
Follow these instructions precisely -- pay attention to the 63 unique stuff.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 06-24-2018 at 04:44 PM.
The following users liked this post:
candipogo (06-29-2018)
#3
Pro
#4
Team Owner
#6
Drifting
That’s in correct , I don’t believe any mid year clusters were held in place with sheet metal screws
#7
Melting Slicks
So are the 1/4" nuts in the Frame some sort of U-Nut that is held in place ? Mine are Sheet Metal Screw style U Nuts. That doesn't mean that it left the factory that way, but its been that way for a very long time.
#8
The poster above gave you incorrect information, your early 63 instrument cluster is attached to the dash by sheet metal screws.
Post up a picture for others to see.
#9
#10
Burning Brakes
I have an Oct ‘63 and the panel is held on by sheet metal screws. In fact, I have been thinking about posting about that very issue. Everyone always talks about the 1/4” bolts. I’m glad to hear that someone else has sheet metal screws. I guess this is just another of the numerous changes over the year.
#11
I have an Oct ‘63 and the panel is held on by sheet metal screws. In fact, I have been thinking about posting about that very issue. Everyone always talks about the 1/4” bolts. I’m glad to hear that someone else has sheet metal screws. I guess this is just another of the numerous changes over the year.
#12
Burning Brakes
ill do that, but as I remember the last time I was going to try the 1/4” standoff bolt trick, the bolts wouldn't fit into the hole. The screw are smaller, probably #10’s.
Maybe someone with a very early ‘63 will chime in and either confirm or refute.
#13
Drifting
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I've owned 4 different SWC over the past 40 years and ALL cluster screws were 5 Black plated 1/4-20 thread countersunk Phillips head screws with shallow domed head. Not that sheet metal screws could not have been used during build process, but have never seen any. begee22
#15
#16
Melting Slicks
Ok so I just converted this one to 1/4 20 so it would be correct. Well it looks like I will be converting it back ! No harm using the 6" long bolts I cut the heads off made it much easier. I haven't slide it back in yet. So the Picture is of the hardware used on the November 21-27 build date. As You can see there is a mix of screws I believe the Flat Head ones painted black are probably the originals.
#17
I bet all the screw shown are original. I have never seen large threads like those on a small screw. I doubt if anybody reproduces them. And the nut part is made out of very thick metal. Never seen that before either.
#18
The screws shown in the picture are a mix, I will go out tomorrow and check mine to see if they match the flat head screws you show. My coupe is a second week November build and for some reason I am thinking phillips head round counter sunk screws not flat head but I will take a look.
The retainer nuts are correct and are used in other places on the car like the rocker moldings. You may want to look around at the glove box mounting screws to see if some were mixed up, I believe the phillips pan head screws secure the liner.
Your car may also be void of the lower glove box support and have the G/B ground wire attached from the cross bar to the inner hinge screw so if it's not there look for a screw hole in the crossbrace just inboard of the glove box, the light will not work without it.
Gavin, No need to apologize about anything. When it comes to the 63 MY there is always something to learn.
The retainer nuts are correct and are used in other places on the car like the rocker moldings. You may want to look around at the glove box mounting screws to see if some were mixed up, I believe the phillips pan head screws secure the liner.
Your car may also be void of the lower glove box support and have the G/B ground wire attached from the cross bar to the inner hinge screw so if it's not there look for a screw hole in the crossbrace just inboard of the glove box, the light will not work without it.
Gavin, No need to apologize about anything. When it comes to the 63 MY there is always something to learn.
#19
Melting Slicks
My '63 has an Oct. 10 build date, and I have the "sheet metal" screws holding the housing in. I remember taking it out thinking great, this will be much more fun going back in- can't use the long bolts.
Rich
Rich
#20
Instructor
Early 63's definitely had the screws.
My November 62 SWC #3914 had the screws.
Years ago, John Hinkley and I corresponded about this after his article came out because he was not aware of this early 63 oddity..
Cluster removal is a lot easier with later cars. I fabricated some rods with screw ends welded on but they were not really successful.
My November 62 SWC #3914 had the screws.
Years ago, John Hinkley and I corresponded about this after his article came out because he was not aware of this early 63 oddity..
Cluster removal is a lot easier with later cars. I fabricated some rods with screw ends welded on but they were not really successful.