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After looking at some previous postings I decided to give a go at electric vent windows. In the video below, the first one, I wanted to see how the smallest motor/gear reducer combination would work moving the vent window. After seeing that it did fairly well except for closing the window over the new weatherstripping I decided to try and get a more solid mount.
In the first video the motor was just attached via the coupling and a piece of wood to nudge up against. In the second video a better mounting approach was made, not perfect but better. You can see that it just doesn’t have enough torque to close over the weatherstripping.
This motor is rated at 6rpm and is a decent speed, but not quite enough torque. I have ordered another small motor that is rated at 2rpm but has a spec of a bit more than 2x the torque.
The benefit of these small motors is that the door doesn’t have to be cut up to make it fit. There is enough room to fit in the pocket that already exists. The motor is about $20. When I get it sorted out I will talk to a good friend that owns a machine shop and I can get him to make proper parts for this vent window actuator.
Sweet idea ! The headlamp motors on the '63-'67 Sting Rays are the same motors that are used as power vent window motors on the '63-'65 Buick Rivieras, Cadillacs and Oldsmobiles of the same era. But those things are big. Glad to see that you're figuring out a way to make it work (and eliminate another window crank).
Sweet idea ! The headlamp motors on the '63-'67 Sting Rays are the same motors that are used as power vent window motors on the '63-'65 Buick Rivieras, Cadillacs and Oldsmobiles of the same era. But those things are big. Glad to see that you're figuring out a way to make it work (and eliminate another window crank).
Ray
another member had used a larger version of the motor/gear reducer and had to cut a piece of the metal structure of the door out in order to fit it in. He also had challenges with the unit having enough torque to overcome the new weatherstripping. He went to a 3rpm motor/gear reducer.
I wanted to see if I could get the smaller unit to work and not have to cut up the door in the process. I think all I have to do is to drill a small hole for a sheet metal screw to attach the bracket with.
Will be interesting to see what your higher torque motors do. Do you have some ideas where you will mount the switches for them?
I will have center mount main window switches and mounted right in front of them will be the bank of vent window switches.
I am looking forward to the higher torque motors...they have about 2x the torque. If I wanted to go with a motor with 6x the torque of the baseline motor there is such a beast and it would work hands down, however it doesnt fit in the door without some surgery being done. The smaller motor doesnt have to have the door modified to fit. It only needs one or two small holes drilled in the back of the vent regulator pocket for sheet metal screws.
I will have center mount main window switches and mounted right in front of them will be the bank of vent window switches.(snip)
Ok, I'm not getting what your saying here about where the switches will go. I assume this is for your 64? On my 66 there is no room for another switch in front of my p/w switch. Do you mean between the p/w switch and the seat belt clips? Confused.
Bill
Last edited by NightshiftHD; Jul 1, 2018 at 09:36 AM.
Ok, I'm not getting what your saying here about where the switches will go. I assume this is for your 64? On my 66 there is no room for another switch in front of my p/w switch. Do you mean between the p/w switch and the seat belt clips? Confused.
Bill
ok, I need to make myself more clear...sometimes my head runs 100mph and I just assume (bad on my part) that everyone is running with me.
What I should have started out saying is that I am building a '63 swc restomod custom car. Since I am not using the center console pieces I have a lot of freedom in what I do and how I package it. Having said that I am using switches that you can press up or down and as a result those switches switch the wires around that feed voltage to the motors. I took your console and with the magic of photoshop I duplicated your switches and added them. The top switch which was for your main windows would now drive the vents and the main windows are now driven by the two new switches that are added. I am sorry but I dont know what is under that area in your car. If you have something in that region then you will have to get creative where you want to put your switches.
In my case I will run the wires where they need to be and my interior guy will adjust the necessary details to put them together like I have shown. Make sense? I am sorry I wasnt clear before....my wife would tell you, 'yup thats a problem with him' lol
I should also add that my '64 was sold two years ago to make room in the garage to move things around while I am working on the 63. I had another 63swc that I sold to another forum member that was a real nice car about 3 years or so ago to also make room. My wife would tell you we have parking for 18 cars in the garages counting what the 3 four posts lifts can also store cars, but perhaps it is more like 14 car parking. At any rate I needed extra room to put parts for the 63swc build which takes up about one car parking spot in the garage. When you get all the boxes coming in for different things but you arent ready to install those parts then you need a place to put them. Even though I have some original parts (sold many of them to forum members) for the car, in many cases I am using them to assemble other new pieces on the car. It certainly is a process, but when I got the car it was all in pieces and as a result I need to reassemble the car to find out how things fit and where I might need new parts or clearances adjusted.
In this threads case I am putting in the electric vent windows. When you watch the bottom video you can see that there is some lost motion when the motor changes directions in the coupling between the motor and the vent window stub. This lost motion is cause by the fit of the vent window stub to the coupler, there is an oblong hole in that stub and a 5/16" bolt will fit right through that hole snuggley when going straight in, but it has free play left and right until it hits the stub and that is what is causing the lost motion. I am worried that this will chew up that vent stub over time and so there needs to be a good solution for that.
What I plan to do is make that coupler a two piece clam shell arrangement where I can have a slot milled into the two halves that match up perfect and tightly all around that stub. There will be no lost motion in that end. I will use the set screw approach like the bottom has with a bolt that pinches tightly against the gear reducers flat on the output shaft. This clam shell approach will make assembly of everything a lot easier and more secure in its attachment. Will probably use some #10 or #12 screws (4) of them to hold the clam shells together.
As I was running the electric motor today it seemed to be much better in running against the weatherstripping around the vent window opening. I am optimistic that the new motor will be able to close no problem, the only thing will be is 2 rpm too slow?
ok, I need to make myself more clear...sometimes my head runs 100mph and I just assume (bad on my part) that everyone is running with me.
What I should have started out saying is that I am building a '63 swc restomod custom car. Since I am not using the center console pieces I have a lot of freedom in what I do and how I package it. Having said that I am using switches that you can press up or down and as a result those switches switch the wires around that feed voltage to the motors. I took your console and with the magic of photoshop I duplicated your switches and added them. The top switch which was for your main windows would now drive the vents and the main windows are now driven by the two new switches that are added. I am sorry but I dont know what is under that area in your car. If you have something in that region then you will have to get creative where you want to put your switches.
In my case I will run the wires where they need to be and my interior guy will adjust the necessary details to put them together like I have shown. Make sense? I am sorry I wasnt clear before....my wife would tell you, 'yup thats a problem with him' lol
I couldn't find the photos that I wanted to send but I remember seeing this power window/power vent window switch setup on a Midyear awhile back. I thought that it was one of the Harley Earl Midyears (the blue roadster or the pink coupe) but it was neither. I also looked for a GM styling exercise photo but to no avail. It's out there though, somewhere.
I couldn't find the photos that I wanted to send but I remember seeing this power window/power vent window switch setup on a Midyear awhile back. I thought that it was one of the Harley Earl Midyears (the blue roadster or the pink coupe) but it was neither. I also looked for a GM styling exercise photo but to no avail. It's out there though, somewhere.
Ray
If you find it, post it up.....I went through a lot of internet photos looking for ideas etc and I liked the clean door panel you get by not having the vent window crank. Most cars I found have electric window and crank for the vent window. Some people "fix" the vent window closed to get rid of the crank. I wanted an operational vent, hence finding an electric motor that will fit in place. The gear reduction on these is so great that you cant turn the output shaft even with a pair of pliers gripping them. The vent window will not open by pushing on it. I saw one car that did away with the vent window all together and had a piece of car glass cut to fill up both, the normal window and the vent window. I thought about that and decided to not go that way. That is what I like about custom cars, there isnt a right nor a wrong way of making them as opposed to NCRS where you are trying to make the car like it rolled off the assembly floor, that isnt my thing. I admire those that pursue and achieve that level of perfection. A tip of my hat to them.
(snip) ... I am sorry but I dont know what is under that area in your car. (snip)
Ok, that makes sense. Actually there is nothing under that added switch, just the metal bracket riveted to the tunnel which the 2 rear screws on the console get secured to. Pretty sure that tab be modified so there is room to cut a new hole in the tunnel and add a 2nd switch cup underneath. Looks semi-OEM then from the topside. Anxious to hear how your new hi torque motors do. Cheers, Bill
Last edited by NightshiftHD; Jul 1, 2018 at 08:01 PM.
Ok, that makes sense. Actually there is nothing under that added switch, just the metal bracket riveted to the tunnel which the 2 rear screws on the console get secured to. Pretty sure that cab be modified so there is room to cut a new hole in the tunnel and add a 2nd switch cup underneath. Looks semi-OEM then from the topside. Anxious to hear how your new hi torque motors do. Cheers, Bill
I will find out tomorrow.....it arrives in the mail...so if it does arrive as promised, then I should have something to report by Monday night.....
I got the 2rpm motor today and it may or may not be better than the 6rpm version above. I have some other motors coming, just not sure when they will arrive. I also have some Nu-Relics vent window motors that will require a different approach than I am doing right now. These motors definitely have the necessary power, just need to see if my packaging approach will work. Stay tuned.
ok, I found a small motor combination that will close the vent window all the way. The trade off for more torque was to get a very slow RPM motor. 0.6 rpm......it moves slow but closes the window all the way. I like the way this packages into the opening area without major surgery on the door.
I had to drill one 1/8” hole in the metal pocket on the door. This is the pocket behind where the vent window regulator goes. Here is the video
Over time as the rubber conforms more to the window and frame I will swap the motors out for faster ones, but for now I like how it closes all the way.
so I need to do the following:
1. Design up a clam shell gearbox to vent window stub adapter. The top of the adapter needs to conform exactly to the vent window stub. The bottom can use a set screw on the flat of the 6mm shaft coming out of the gearbox.
2. Firm up the design of the mount, I like to use like weight sheet metal then cover with epoxy and carbon fiber. This combo with a couple of layers of carbon fiber will yield a stiff bracket.
3. Purchase harness, connector (male/female) and switch for vent window motor
I couldn’t make the NuRelics vent window motors work. I could mount back to back with the window motor but looking down into the door the output shaft was too high and too far away (closer to outside of door rather than inside of door) to be able to get some universals and drive shafts work. It was a good thought and try, but in the end, no go!
Electric vent window
No such thing as a "LITTLE CHANGE"
