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Blower Sound When Connecting Battery 1963

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Old 07-31-2018, 08:29 AM
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Wfvtr17
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Default Blower Sound When Connecting Battery 1963

I have a 1963 327 / 250 hp automatic. On my battery I have one of those Green disconnect *****. I needed to charge my battery, using a wall charger, I positioned the Green **** up (not activating the circuit from battery), I connected the red to red on battery / charger and black to a steel part on engine block.

I left the charger on overnight, when disconnecting the battery charger, and then turning the Green **** down to activate the battery circuit, I hear a blower type sound.

When using the battery charger in past this has never occurred.

Any ideas?
Old 07-31-2018, 10:29 AM
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65GGvert
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Was the ignition key in the off position?
Old 07-31-2018, 11:00 AM
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Frankie the Fink
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Check the key position as indicated above - sometimes the key position doesn't exactly match the labeling above the key slot on these cars...

The only "blower" sounds you could possibly hear are if you have an electric cooling fan or the heater blower.....

63s did not have the rear coupe area ventilation blower that came in later year cars....

You need to isolate the sound - one way would be to pull the heater fuse...

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 07-31-2018 at 11:01 AM.
Old 07-31-2018, 11:04 AM
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Wfvtr17
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Yes ignition key was off not in car, I waited about an 1 hour, turned green **** down to try to start, and now the blower noise is gone, never heard this before. Thank you for your quick response!

Car is a 1963 327/ 250 hp, automatic car. Bought it at Carlisle last year.

The other day while driving, I stopped at a light after driving 20 minutes and car stalled while in drive, I was able to start it, came home, let it run in park then placed it in drive car stalled again after a few minutes.

I did a test on battery: engine off 12.80, engine running 12.60, after 6-8 minutes 12.55 -12.54 with door open, radio on, engine off after running 15 minutes 12.69-12.70.

had car running yesterday for about 20 minutes in park, and the 15 minutes today no stalling.

previous readings a year ago. engine off 12.90, engine running 14.97, engine off after running 13.25.

Is it possible alternator charging battery?

THANK YOU again for your time, the Corvette Forum is outstanding.

Bill
Old 07-31-2018, 11:05 AM
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kellsdad
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Just a gues here. If the battery was connected, the accessory circuit was on and the heater fan switch on, AND the battery very weak, a low power battery charger would not likely have produced enough current to both charge the battery and run the fan fast enough to be heard. In fact, it likely would not have even charged the battery. If you subsequently disconnected the battery at the green switch and then charged it, it would run the fan when it was reconnected.

The KEY here (pun intended) is that 1963 Corvette ignition switches have the ACC position in a different spot that modern cars. If you did not know this you could have left the key in the ACC position rather than off. That would have drained the battery. The key can also be removed in the ON position and create the same situation.

Last edited by kellsdad; 07-31-2018 at 11:08 AM. Reason: Just saw new post
Old 07-31-2018, 11:09 AM
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Frankie the Fink
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If you put a multimeter across the battery terminals at a fast idle and you don't read between 13.8V and 14.2V then your battery is not charging.... Any autozone can load test your alternator on the car but my money says its not working...
Old 07-31-2018, 11:10 AM
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Wfvtr17
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Originally Posted by kellsdad
Just a gues here. If the battery was connected, the accessory circuit was on and the heater fan switch on, AND the battery very weak, a low power battery charger would not likely have produced enough current to both charge the battery and run the fan fast enough to be heard. In fact, it likely would not have even charged the battery. If you subsequently disconnected the battery at the green switch and then charged it, it would run the fan when it was reconnected.

The KEY here (pun intended) is that 1963 Corvette ignition switches have the ACC position in a different spot that modern cars. If you did not know this you could have left the key in the ACC position rather than off. That would have drained the battery. The key can also be removed in the ON position and create the same situation.

Ok thank you, I had the charger on battery, with green **** off (not in a running position).
Old 07-31-2018, 11:13 AM
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Wfvtr17
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
If you put a multimeter across the battery terminals at a fast idle and you don't read between 13.8V and 14.2V then your battery is not charging.... Any autozone can load test your alternator on the car but my money says its not working...

Thats what was I thinking also. Could driving the car for 20 minutes if the alternator was not charging the battery cause engine to stall?

Frankie you helped me last year concerning removing a corroded front turn signal bulb!
Old 07-31-2018, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Wfvtr17
Thats what was I thinking also. Could driving the car for 20 minutes if the alternator was not charging the battery cause engine to stall?

Frankie you helped me last year concerning removing a corroded front turn signal bulb!
Possibly...but one thing at a time...

Get your charging issue addressed -- and you may find your blower noise and stalling clears up...

If not, we'll go from there... If the alternator is not charging then you are driving strictly on battery voltage - its a myth that these cars are happy running on just 12V - they "like" the higher voltage that the alternator provides...

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 07-31-2018 at 11:19 AM.
Old 07-31-2018, 11:49 AM
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Frankie,

thank you again! Zip Corvette parts has an rebuilt alternator 42 amp I believe mine is 37 amp.

If I take the Alternator out can it be tested at AutoZone?

https://www.zip-corvette.com/63-68-4...ufactured.html
Old 07-31-2018, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Wfvtr17
Frankie,

thank you again! Zip Corvette parts has an rebuilt alternator 42 amp I believe mine is 37 amp.

If I take the Alternator out can it be tested at AutoZone?

https://www.zip-corvette.com/63-68-4...ufactured.html
They test most modern car charging circuits while the components are in the car; I'd ask to make sure about an older car before tearing things out of the engine bay...

Worst case the alternator and voltage regulator checks are in your Corvette Shop Manual...

Old 07-31-2018, 04:18 PM
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Could be the cooling fan in the battery charger.

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Old 08-01-2018, 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Wfvtr17

If I take the Alternator out can it be tested at AutoZone?

You can test it yourself. No need to take it out. Simple test:





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Old 08-01-2018, 07:59 AM
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morly1963
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Originally Posted by Wfvtr17
Frankie,

thank you again! Zip Corvette parts has an rebuilt alternator 42 amp I believe mine is 37 amp.

If I take the Alternator out can it be tested at AutoZone?

https://www.zip-corvette.com/63-68-4...ufactured.html

If u have the original alternator have it rebuilt-dont get rid of the original if u have it. Good luck let us know how u made out.
Old 08-01-2018, 08:42 AM
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Frankie the Fink
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Originally Posted by morly1963
If u have the original alternator have it rebuilt-dont get rid of the original if u have it. Good luck let us know how u made out.
And upgrade the output -- my original 63 "628" alternator now puts out 100amps "all out"; nice with the added Vintage Air system - I doubt I ever see over 35-40 amp draw though without an electric cooling fan...

Old 08-01-2018, 10:13 AM
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Good advice. After problem solved, replace green **** with black ****
Old 08-01-2018, 10:14 AM
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Or no- **** and knife-blade switch. It’s all I use now.
Old 08-01-2018, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by morly1963
If u have the original alternator have it rebuilt-dont get rid of the original if u have it. Good luck let us know how u made out.

Yes THANK YOU! I will keep, also kept my original power steering pump, purchased car at Corvettes at Carlisle last August 2017.

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