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I know that stock C1 cooling problems have been discussed to no end on the forum but I can't find much information on how to help the restomod projects. I have a 62 with a tri-power vortec GM crate 350 that runs great, 4 speed, with Classic Air AC.
Running the largest Dewitts Radiator available. It just runs hot. I have been back and forth with trying the stock shroud with a flexfan and then tried using a Flexalite Black Magic electric fan set-up that is supposed to move 3000 cfm, (using that now). The stock gauge does not seem to be to accurate although it has been restored. I also have an Autometer temp gauge hooked up extra to keep a better eye on things. Idle & low speed driving do not seem to be too bad but at highway speeds temp starts bumping over 210 degrees and that's with a 180 degree thermostat. It doesn't boil over but it's real close. This is not a show car, we drive them. Live in the St Louis area & enjoy trips to Eureka Springs, Indianapolis, Chicago or anyplace we can find good shows
I probably could get by this way just keeping a close eye on things but I would like to swap out the 4 speed for a Torque Flight automatic that the wife could drive. Made sure that the radiator would accept trans cooler lines but I have no doubt that the extra transmission heat could not be handled.
I was hoping I could find someone who has found a way to modify the core support to allow a larger Radiator or found a way to add some cooling with an extra fluid cooler somehow. Would appreciate any help.
I know that stock C1 cooling problems have been discussed to no end on the forum but I can't find much information on how to help the restomod projects. I have a 62 with a tri-power vortec GM crate 350 that runs great, 4 speed, with Classic Air AC.
Running the largest Dewitts Radiator available. It just runs hot. I have been back and forth with trying the stock shroud with a flexfan and then tried using a Flexalite Black Magic electric fan set-up that is supposed to move 3000 cfm, (using that now). The stock gauge does not seem to be to accurate although it has been restored. I also have an Autometer temp gauge hooked up extra to keep a better eye on things. Idle & low speed driving do not seem to be too bad but at highway speeds temp starts bumping over 210 degrees and that's with a 180 degree thermostat. It doesn't boil over but it's real close. This is not a show car, we drive them. Live in the St Louis area & enjoy trips to Eureka Springs, Indianapolis, Chicago or anyplace we can find good shows
I probably could get by this way just keeping a close eye on things but I would like to swap out the 4 speed for a Torque Flight automatic that the wife could drive. Made sure that the radiator would accept trans cooler lines but I have no doubt that the extra transmission heat could not be handled.
I was hoping I could find someone who has found a way to modify the core support to allow a larger Radiator or found a way to add some cooling with an extra fluid cooler somehow. Would appreciate any help.
Boomer, I cruised up to Austin from San Antonio (about 90 miles each way) for the Corvette Invasion in my ‘61 with a 350 and the a/c on high in 100+ temps with no issue until I sat idling for a bit.
Engine temperature stayed at 160 (I have a 160 thermostat) until I sat waiting in line and it climbed to 210. Usually, overheating at highway speeds means not enough radiator and while idling, not enough fan. I’m running a dual core Griffin aluminum radiator (6-00064) with Flex-a-lite 3000cfm fan (160). I have plenty of radiator, but perhaps could use a bit more fan. One other point, the a/c condenser sits in front of the radiator, but the automatic tranny cooler sits under the trunk with its own electric fan.
There are no problems with the stock C1 cooling system.
Problems arise when people start using flex fans, racing water pumps, and improper radiators.
I have a restoration DeWitts aluminum radiator in my '61, with a 427 CI small block, 180* T-stat, and clutch driven 7 blade Z28 metal fan with the factory shroud and it cools fine.
Before I bought teh new rad, i called DeWitts and asked what the BTU transfer rate was on that radiator and also what the transfer rate was on a '67 427 BB radiator. The BTU rating were almost identical.
Doug
Boomer, I cruised up to Austin from San Antonio (about 90 miles each way) for the Corvette Invasion in my ‘61 with a 350 and the a/c on high in 100+ temps with no issue until I sat idling for a bit.
Engine temperature stayed at 160 (I have a 160 thermostat) until I sat waiting in line and it climbed to 210. Usually, overheating at highway speeds means not enough radiator and while idling, not enough fan. I’m running a dual core Griffin aluminum radiator (6-00064) with Flex-a-lite 3000cfm fan (160). I have plenty of radiator, but perhaps could use a bit more fan. One other point, the a/c condenser sits in front of the radiator, but the automatic tranny cooler sits under the trunk with its own electric fan.
Hope that helps!
Thanks for the help. Could you give me some info on the trans cooler under the trunk. If I keep that heat out of the radiator it would help.
There are no problems with the stock C1 cooling system.
Problems arise when people start using flex fans, racing water pumps, and improper radiators.
I have a restoration DeWitts aluminum radiator in my '61, with a 427 CI small block, 180* T-stat, and clutch driven 7 blade Z28 metal fan with the factory shroud and it cools fine.
Before I bought teh new rad, i called DeWitts and asked what the BTU transfer rate was on that radiator and also what the transfer rate was on a '67 427 BB radiator. The BTU rating were almost identical.
Doug
Thanks, I know that if keeping the car all stock or close to stock that the originally designed cooling system will probably handle things but I bet you don't have aftermarket AC on your car.
That's probably why AC wasn't offered on C1 Corvettes.
It is a full size cooler (not an auxiliary as by itself it would not be enough cooling) with a dedicated thermostatically controlled fan. Here is a picture:
There are no problems with the stock C1 cooling system.
Problems arise when people start using flex fans, racing water pumps, and improper radiators.
I have a restoration DeWitts aluminum radiator in my '61, with a 427 CI small block, 180* T-stat, and clutch driven 7 blade Z28 metal fan with the factory shroud and it cools fine.
Before I bought teh new rad, i called DeWitts and asked what the BTU transfer rate was on that radiator and also what the transfer rate was on a '67 427 BB radiator. The BTU rating were almost identical.
Doug
Doug
I agree with all but the flex-fan part; I always have and always will use a flex-fan
Bill
My 59 runs hot as well, but on a 100+ deg. day with AC on, doesn’t get over 216 deg. (IR gun). It’s just unnerving to see that full sweep of the gauge but technically, it won’t boil until 260 or so. I try not to worry about it.
Be sure to check the actual engine temperature at the sending unit, heads, intake manifold and block with an IR sensor before you do anything. I see that you said you have an additional Autometer gauge installed...The IR sensor is quick, easy and inexpensive to verify actual engine temp...
As Factoid said earlier...Texas heat is BRUTAL!...If you decide to go with an automatic transmission here's a picture of the transmission cooler on the inner frame rail of my '59 restomod...The LS3 engine has a 187* thermostat...Runs between 185* and 195* in South Texas summers.
Wolfman
Last edited by wolfman64; Aug 9, 2018 at 11:11 PM.
All great information. I think that Factoid's trans cooler should do the trick.
Wolfman,
Does the trans cooler you are using not have a fan setup? Are you just using it as added trans cooling, running thru your radiator first. Also, could it be used as a engine oil cooler. Maybe give me part #, manufacturer and where you bought it too.
I put an engine oil cooler in the drivers splash panel. The pass side splash panel would be a good spot for a trans cooler, I think it would fit there. My battery is in the trunk, anyway.
Doug
I like to know what model that is. DeWitts make both pro-series (2 rows of 1.0" tubes) and HP-series (two rows of 1.25" tubes) and both could have the Spal 16" electric fan.
The "Biggest" model would be 4149061M and that would cool it. CLICK HERE
Originally Posted by Boomer Shark
but at highway speeds temp starts bumping over 210 degrees and that's with a 180 degree thermostat. It doesn't boil over but it's real close. Boomer
A pressurized system (15 psi) and a 50/50 mix would not boil until 270. You could run 210-220 all day long without any concern to the motor.
Last edited by Tom@Dewitt; Aug 11, 2018 at 04:05 PM.
Horizontally in a cutout and modification of the fiberglass baffle that goes between the lower nose piece and the radiator. https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-35...ss-molded.aspx
I believe air should blow down through the cooler at about any speed above 30 MPH. I would have to hook up a simple water manometer to the area in front of the radiator to verify if that was a high pressure or low pressure area.
Doug
C1 Cooling System Options
...vpracingfuels.com/vp-racing-fuels-introduces-new-improved-cool-down/
