Ron Miller

Could use a little help with disassembly of the power antenna switch on my '66. Got my new antenna in and working, at least part-time. I tested it prior to installation to insure everything was in working order and it checked out fine. Upon installation, it would power up with no problem but didn't want to power down. I shot a bit of contact cleaner on the switch and managed to get it working intermittently in the down direction, but I thinking it needs to be disassembled and cleaned properly. I just briefly glanced at the switch before going to my AIM manual to find out where it plugged into the harness, and I don't remember a lot about how the switch was put together.

I know some guys here have disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled the switch, so I'd like to take advantage of their knowledge before I break mine and am forced into buying one of the $100 replacements. I'd much rather have my original . . . . .

Anybody having a brief description they can post would be much appreciated, any photos of the disassembled switch would be a bonus! Thanks Much!!
Ron

Ron Miller

C'mon now guys, quit kiddin' around. I know a few of you have had this switch apart . . . . . .

Mastr Fab

Why don't you save the headache and throw $40. my way and have one that works.

Ron Miller

Hey, thanks much! That sounds like a decent enough of an offer! But I've driven the car for the past 30+ years with an antenna that didn't go up or down, and the one I now have goes up with no problem, sometimes will go down as well! I'm not in a rush as you probably can surmise, so I'm gonna fiddle with the switch I have until I get it to working properly or not. Supposing "not" to be the outcome, I'll probably be back in touch with you and see if yours is still available.

Appreciate it!
Ron

Tiros

Been there, done that. The contacts aren't just dirty they are burned. Get a new one.

OT:
Is that switch supposed to be momentary? Mine is not. I fried my repro motor by leaving it on. I got a new power antenna that uses a signal from the radio (I added this signal wire to my factory radio power switch), so now I re purpose the unused antenna switch as a clock disable so I don't have to keep disconnecting battery.

Ron Miller

Wow! Not surprised at all if you had burned contacts with a fried motor! Yes, this is normally a momentary switch with center off, power to one contact "UP" and to the second in the "DOWN" position. I'd say you were lucky the repro antenna was the only thing fried, this switch is hot at all times even with the ignition key in the "OFF" position. I think it may feed through a circuit breaker, however, but don't remember for sure . . . . . have to check a wiring diagram to be certain.

Wouldn't be surprised if the contacts have some pitting or burning, but I don't expect a lot. The "UP" side of the contact works perfectly, the "DOWN" side only very infrequently. The switch has not been used since 1976, so at most it had only 10 years of use. I've owned the car since then and hasn't been used since 1976 until now. In any event, I'll know once I remove it and get inside, just have several other things going on right now, not enough time. And, if it takes a replacement, so be it. But until then, I enjoy projecting with the original items and restoring them to proper operation if possible . . . . . . Maybe by next week . . . . .

65GGvert

The switch is easy to take apart and clean the contacts and reassemble.

Ron Miller

Thanks, that's what I'm looking for, someone who has been there. Is the switch held together by "bend over" tabs? I glanced at mine briefly and think that may have been the case, but don't remember exactly what the back side looked like. Just don't want to crack/break the bakelite or plastic housing in the process of opening it up. Any special thing(s) I should pay particular attention to? (I'm always prepared for flying springs when taking something like this apart . . . . )

Thanks Much!

65GGvert

It's been 20 years since I took one apart. My recollection is it has four tabs that have to be released. You could always try spraying some contact/tuner cleaner in to see if you can get it to the contacts. I feel pretty sure I could still take it apart and reassemble if you want to give it a try and send it to me. I really think you can do it if you just pay attention to what's holding it together and only put pressure on the metal part of the switch and not the breakable material.

Ron Miller

Thanks much, it's been about that long since I've seen the back side of one of the switches. I removed the switch, cleaned the plug contacts, and shot some TV contact cleaner in around the rocker switch. It checks fine in both the "UP" and "DOWN" positions with a continuity meter, so fortunately I won't have to disassemble it for cleaning, at least not now.

The metal housing on the back of the switch is staked at four locations, two each on each of the longer sides of the assembly. It doesn't look like it would be a problem to bend these stake points back outward with a pair of needle nosed pliers or similar for disassembly of the switch. I've found usually in similar assembly methods that it's only required that the stake points on one of the two sides be released, the assembly will usually "rock" enough in the opening to bypass the two stake points on the opposite side of the assembly.
I've included a photo of the back side of the switch for future reference for anybody who may be able to use it at a future date.

Thanks much, the switch plugs into a new under dash wiring harness I installed a few years back, so I should be good to go once it's reconnected. If not, I'll suspect a poor connection at the rear wiring harness where the antenna plugs into the rear wiring harness. Appreciate all the information and suggestions from everybody!
Ron

Ron Miller

OK, after checking continuity thru the switch I put 12v to the "UP" and "DOWN" contacts of the main wiring harness to verify that the antenna would power up and down from the main under dash wiring harness. Worked like a charm. So, as a final check before buttoning up I plugged the switch part of the way (to keep the locking tab from engaging) into the connector, and again everything worked as it should.

Installed the switch into the left side vent panel and connected the wiring plug, and everything works as it should. A pair of surgical hemostats I acquired several years ago sure came in handy again, able to grab and hold the plug under the dash while inserting the switch connector. This has come to be one of my favorite tools, so handy in so many ways to be able to lock onto an item that can't be readily accessed by hand otherwise. I've got two pair, one straight jawed and one with curved jaws. They were free, but worth what you might have to pay for them . . . .

Finished up by replacing the right side vent panel and watching the antenna go up and down a few times. First time since 1977 at least since this car has had a working power antenna. And, I'll probably use it all of 3-4 times a year, but I like knowing that it will work if need be. Wound up successfully cleaning the switch contacts without having to disassemble the switch which is a good thing, but at least I'll remember for a while how the thing goes together should the need ever arise . . . . . Thanks to all for the advice and assistance, appreciate it much!

Ron