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I was wondering if anyone out there with a 600+ hp C2 has had any problem with the frame twisting and causing paint issues. I am completing a conversion and it is getting painted now and thought this might be an issue.
I was wondering if anyone out there with a 600+ hp C2 has had any problem with the frame twisting and causing paint issues. I am completing a conversion and it is getting painted now and thought this might be an issue.
That type of problem results from frames with inadequate torsional rigidity, putting excessive stress on outer body panels. Every aftermarket custom tube frame I've seen has at least two or three times more torsional stiffness than the stock ladder frame, so I wouldn't worry about it.
Well I have a 63 resto mod with mast motorsports naturally aspirated LS3 dynoed at 605 HP and a Roadster Shop chassis. I'm not really sure how you would test and confirm this as the frame builder would blame the bodyman and the bodyman the frame builder. When we mounted the body on the frame I noticed some sag .75 inch at the front and the rear so I was really disappointed in my purchase. That being said the car drives like it's on rails and like a modern car, I'm ecstatic with the results and I have not seen any body damage. So it's a conundrum and would require extensive testing which is simply not available.
Convertible's with factory frame's do have problem's with twisting. Some bad enough just pulling through a driveway , doors will rub jams and chip paint. Coupes not as much due to roof structure. Most aftermarket frames are designed with better rigidity. My 67 Roadster has a SRIII with 540 Donovan. To be safe I added 6 point bar. Hope its enough.
Well I have a 63 resto mod with mast motorsports naturally aspirated LS3 dynoed at 605 HP and a Roadster Shop chassis. I'm not really sure how you would test and confirm this as the frame builder would blame the bodyman and the bodyman the frame builder. When we mounted the body on the frame I noticed some sag .75 inch at the front and the rear so I was really disappointed in my purchase. That being said the car drives like it's on rails and like a modern car, I'm ecstatic with the results and I have not seen any body damage. So it's a conundrum and would require extensive testing which is simply not available.
nice looking car....I wouldn’t worry about the paint.....how do you know it’s sagging 3/4” front and rear? I would think that if it was sagging that much that gaps like in the door area would be a problem. Are you suggestion that the car wasn’t properly shimmed? On a C1 if not properly shimmed under the front radiator you can get bulging at the top of the wheel well if it is drooping leading to a crack above the wheel well in that area. If you don’t see any bulging and the gaps look right....just leave it.....
Welcome to the GANG....
Our 63 SWC LS9, 650 HP with matching Torque.
Was just discussing this with the car's builder this weekend. The builder Legacy Innovations built a one off tube chassis for our car. Notice the "Tube" connecting both the top control Arms. Adding ririty to the area. I'm told many aftermarket C2 frame are very weak in this area, as the frames are kind of light in between the lower front frame rails...
C2/LS3 resto mod conversion frame twisting
