Want to replace the headlight switch on my 67 Convertible. Somewhere I read that the repro switches are different than originals. Something about the detent I think?
Does anyone remember any issues with the reproductions. Plan to pick up a new headlight switch from NAPA or O'reily's

 

I think your best bet is from a Corvette Parts Supplier ..Many to chose form.. They are licenced by GM for reproduction parts. Napa would not be my first place to try.

 

What is wrong with your switch ? They can be disassembled, cleaned up and put back into service many times. The repro switches can be a problem -- some of them have over-sensitive thermal cutouts that protect the headlight circuit and can cause problems...

 

Not sure if my switch is original. Have not removed it in over 20 years.
I think the problem is the rheostat, the dash lights are either full bright or off.
​​​​​​​Didn't know rebuilding a headlight switch was possible.

 

Frankie is correct in that the switches can be taken apart and cleaned. However, your problem is an open wire in the rheostat section that controls the dash lights. Those are not repairable. I have bought a repro unit that has interchangeable parts with the original but it still requires buying the whole switch.
Ralph

 

The headlight switch is used on some Ford cars. A good parts man can at Car Quest can find this BWD S415P List $22 Net $13. Dennis

 

Has the internal design been upgraded? The original design was not good and did not last long.

 

The repro switches seem to have degraded current carrying capacity and many times the internal circuit breaker will strobe the lights....particularly on high beam..

 

Are you referring to the one advertised in this post?

 

Can't say on the generic Ford switch, the Corvette repro switches all seem to experience current carrying issues sooner or later... Dozens of posts here about the issue.

 

Correct!
And it's across car lines not limited to Corvette. Even the repop toggle for my Mopar opens up on high beam with stock, 51 year old lamps. Same problem with the Corvette and a Ford. They must all use the same sourced internal mechanism or the specs they use do not relate to reality. The original switches in my 60 Buick, 62 Bonneville and 63 Impala perform flawlessly.

Dan

 

Thanks, I just replaced mine because of the dimmer!
I guess relays are in order for the headlights

 

 

Besides the out of spec internal circuit breaker making your headlights appear to be emergency vehicle strobes, yes, there is a issue with the detents and the spec of the internal latch mechanism for the **** shaft and it's effect on the internal detents of the switch.

You may find that the combination of a repro switch and either the original or repro **** shaft will be a non-functional nuisance. Something so simple can be a pain. The tolerances of the repro switch to mate to the **** shaft tip can vary.. I've had several cases of this over the years. Based on the combo, you may have to file the triangular tip of the **** shaft to get it to catch and secure properly. Do this test before you install the assembly to the dash. Once the switch in installed do the test again. When you tighten the switch threaded collar test it again and you may find the shaft won't engage and keeps slipping out.

I have had to mill the cluster face 10s of thousandths where the threaded collar fits to get the shaft tip to catch properly on several cars over time.

On the C1's there is a similar problem and has required the same method of either simply removing thick paint buildup of the cluster mount face to latch the **** shaft, or on several cars I've also had to mill the mount face as removing the paint wasn't enough.

Just another case of junk reproduction parts made to look like originals but lack functionality. All in all you are better off with original switches and ****/shafts whenever possible.

Rich

 

I’ll say it again. If your rheostat wire to dim the lights is intact overhaaul what you already have.

 

Right, But if the rheostat wire is broken that's trouble.

I've repaired several that was simply a corrosion problem on the rivets for the rheostat coil. Cleaned and some silver solder fixed them right up.

Rich
WAIT A MINUTE.... This is a 1+ year old thread the guy probably fixed it long ago. Geesh. Who restarted this antique thread anyways.... Hmmmm I see now. And they never answered my question about 56-62 steering boxes either. Go figure.

 

This post is way too old.

Rich, I don't know anything about your 56-62 steering box question. But I asked the question about the about replacing my headlight switch. For the record, all I did was remove the switch and clean it. Reinstalled and it works fine. Thank go out to FtF.
But the original question I was asking was if the repos switches are different than the original switches. I wanted to know if the new switches still had the detents and rheostat. I had read somewhere the new switches did not have detents.

 

Repros from Corvette vendors..... Yes detents etc. Others may have functional replacements without, unsure.

But Repros are junk, from anywhere.

The steering box thing is a private joke, well for me anyways. In their advertising thread for the C1 kits, they never answered my question from a year or so ago.

Rich

 

Got It. Thanks

 

One other thing that I'm not sure was mentioned is that the original switch did not allow for the front parking lights to stay lit when pulled for headlight, I think in 1968 that became a DOT regulation.