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I have a stock 1964 Corvette. I decided to change out the stock headlights and replace with sealed beam Halogen headlights. I purchased them from Eckler's and the Halogens are the proper ones according to them. They are the same size and same plug as the originals. When I turn them on with the brights on, after about 4 minutes all four bulbs flicker and strobe in unison. They will do this with the engine running or off. The tail lights are not affected. All I did was replace the bulbs. They are sealed beams so the headlight buckets did not have to be modified. What am I missing? Is there some relay that needs to be inserted inline? Thank you for your time.
The halogens may have slightly more current draw than the old bulbs causing the thermal cutout relay inside the headlight switch to strobe the lights.
Yiu may an over sensitive headlight switch or else relays may be required.
I don't know what you bought from the vendors; I use Sylvania H5001 and H5006 halogens with no problem...
I just replaced the headlight switch so I know it should be good. The bulbs I received from Eckler's were Wagner H5006 low beam and H5001 high beam. I am not sure what type or where to put the inline relay if needed. Before the headlight switch or after. Thanks for weighing in on this.
If you still have the original headlight switch, swap it back in and see what happens. (unless it was defective for some other reason). The built in circuit breaker in the new switch is opening and resetting with the current draw on your new bulbs. As Frankie said, the repros are poor replacements.
If you still have the original headlight switch, swap it back in and see what happens. (unless it was defective for some other reason). The built in circuit breaker in the new switch is opening and resetting with the current draw on your new bulbs. As Frankie said, the repros are poor replacements.
Thank you for weighing in on my problem. I appreciate your help.
Halagen headlights typically draw more current than the original incandecent bulbs. Installing relays just before the headlights should stop the circuit breaker cycling. Relays will also remove the increased load from the dimmer switch (failed two before figuring it out), increase light output (higher voltage at the bulbs), and increase the life of the halagen lights (they last longer running at full voltage). Pulling power from the horn relay is convenient. Inline fuse (an automatic resetting breaker is better) near the horn relay, and use the original circuit to activate the relays. Halagen bulbs can run much hotter at the plugs so a good connection at the bulbs will be important. Ceramic sockets for the plugs at the lights are available to prevent melting.
Converslly most original headlight switches can be opened up and refurbished - they are only truly dead if the dimmer rheostat opens up..
The internal switch thermal cutout is shown above - VERY similar to a turn signal flasher inside....high current heat opens the connection and as it cools it closes again and strobes your headlights (or turn signals in the other case).
The theory is you'll be able to limp home at night with the strobing lights in an emergency.....sort of like your own rolling disco club....
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Sep 27, 2018 at 06:15 AM.
Halogen headlights typically draw more current than the original incandecent bulbs. (higher voltage at the bulbs), and increase the life of the halogen lights (they last longer running at full voltage)...
In my experience Frank is accurate when he mentioned replacement switches are a problem, their current interrupting bimetallic switch is poorly calibrated. I have two cars, both running original tungsten lamps (T3 & GE) in which I have replaced headlamp switches and now have flashing high beams. So I don't agree that its halogen lamps, my other 6 cars run halogen with original switches and wiring and no problem whatsoever.
Your second statement cannot be true. Running any tungsten lamp at higher than designed voltage shortens its life dramatically and exponentially. Let us remember, a halogen lamp is no high-tech magic bulb. It uses a halogen gas rather than say nitrogen or argon or whatever they once used, and this prevents blackening of the optics from the vaporization of the filament over time. That, and better optics, reflectors and alternator capacity made for much better headlights. This relay stuff is all well and good, it will certainly brighten headlamps, cover for shitty switches and give you a nice Saturday afternoon project that costs little in parts. But it isn't necessary. If the switch and wiring are good, your halogens will light just fine. I'd put the effort into finding a good switch rather than adding more wires, connections and devices.
Dan
Last edited by dplotkin; Sep 27, 2018 at 09:29 PM.
Indeed, my original and rare "095" 63 headlight switch ran the T3s, then the halogens just fine without relays for years and now run my LED low beam headlights also without issue... The high beams are still halogen and run fine...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Sep 27, 2018 at 09:24 PM.
Halogen Headlights
