Spindle Support Strut Bushing Replacement
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Close to DC
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
If you go on YouTube and search for, "VBP How To Video-Smart Struts" you will find the details. Also, get a Chassis Service Manual for your car. They are reproduced and very informative. 
Dennis
Dennis
Last edited by Bluestripe67; Oct 22, 2018 at 10:58 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 271
Likes: 33
From: Melbourne, Fl
Thanks. In the video they are changing to an upgraded strut and I want to change the bushing on the original strut.
Last edited by 08redrocket; Oct 22, 2018 at 11:26 AM. Reason: info
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,173
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From: Connecticut, USA
The originals can be pressed out or cut out with a hole saw. The rubber replacements are encased in a steel sleeve and press into the eyelets of the rods. I turned a shaft with an ID for the bushing ID and shoulder for the Bushing OD. I use it to remove and install bushings in an ordinary 20 ton press.
Race Director
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From: San Antonio, TX/Mahopac, NY
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1. Jack up the rear and place on jack stands with front wheels chocked.
2. Remove cotter pin and castle nut.
3. Remove shock from lower mount (you may need to remove upper mount first in order to slide shock off lower mount.
4. Jack up trailing arm to take tension off strut rod.
5. Remove outer strut mount. This is the hardest part. DO NOT bang on the threaded stud or try to reverse the castle nut and bang on it. Both will damage the threads. The factory has a special long nut for this task. Use a pickle fork placed against the smooth portion of the shock mount as close to the base as possible. A few sharp blows with a bfh should drive it out of the mount (it can be very stubborn).
6. So far, you haven’t changed your camber alignment, but you need to remove the other end of the strut rod, so mark the eccentric bolt position and remove it.
7. Remove the bushing(s) with either a press or drill them out.
8. Reinstall
Or get a service manual and follow the process, but use the pickle fork.
2. Remove cotter pin and castle nut.
3. Remove shock from lower mount (you may need to remove upper mount first in order to slide shock off lower mount.
4. Jack up trailing arm to take tension off strut rod.
5. Remove outer strut mount. This is the hardest part. DO NOT bang on the threaded stud or try to reverse the castle nut and bang on it. Both will damage the threads. The factory has a special long nut for this task. Use a pickle fork placed against the smooth portion of the shock mount as close to the base as possible. A few sharp blows with a bfh should drive it out of the mount (it can be very stubborn).
6. So far, you haven’t changed your camber alignment, but you need to remove the other end of the strut rod, so mark the eccentric bolt position and remove it.
7. Remove the bushing(s) with either a press or drill them out.
8. Reinstall
Or get a service manual and follow the process, but use the pickle fork.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 714
Likes: 230
After removing the strut you can burn them out quite easily with mapp gas or propane tourch. I tried drilling mine out and found it a long process. Best to do outside due to smoke, dripping hot rubber and fire danger. Took about 30 minutes to do all four bushings.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,539
Likes: 1,970
From: Temple Terrace Florida
Before I pick up a wrench, I soak the area in PB Plaster or Liquid Wrench. It's better if you can do this a few days in advance. Before I put it back together, I coat the lower shock mount with antiseize. The mount came out very easy in my car from California. It took a 20 ton press with the trailing arm attached to remove it from my NY car. Good luck. Jerry