Use TI resistor Wire Instead of Ballast Resistor
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Use TI resistor Wire Instead of Ballast Resistor
Does anyone know whether it is possible to use the resistance wire (which is used in the K66 TI harness and connects to the 12v wire coming from the ignition switch) instead of a conventional ballast resistor mounted on the firewall in a conventional ignition system (for appearance and convenience converting from TI to in a Breakerless SE setup) on a 427/425 car? If so, how do you measure the resistance in the wire with an ohms meter.
#3
Le Mans Master
68
Starting in 1968, GM used resister wire instead of a ballast resister on the Corvette. I believe that the length and size of the wire determine the resistance. Jerry
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I'd like to test the resistance of the wire, but when I select 20 ohms on my meter and connect the multimeter to each end of the wire I get a 0.00 reading. Gues im not doing the resistance check right. Breakerless SE recommends using the ballast resistor but I already have the TI resistor wire installed in the harness. It would therefore be very convenient to use it.
#5
I'd like to test the resistance of the wire, but when I select 20 ohms on my meter and connect the multimeter to each end of the wire I get a 0.00 reading. Gues im not doing the resistance check right. Breakerless SE recommends using the ballast resistor but I already have the TI resistor wire installed in the harness. It would therefore be very convenient to use it.
Keep at it.
#6
Team Owner
Do you have a lower Ohm's scale than 20? You do need to use a ballast resistor with SE. The ceramic part dissipates heat that I can't see a resistor wire doing.
#7
Team Owner
Check out the instructions for C3, they use a resistance wire in the same kit.
COIL
The Breakerless SE is optimized for use with either the factory original coil or Breakerless Replacement
Plus series coil. Substitute coils that have a primary resistance of 1.2 to 1.8 ohms are also compatible. Very
low resistance MSD Blaster and Accel Super coils are supplied with a supplemental resistor to raise the
primary resistance to 1.5 ohms. Failure to use this supplemental resistor will damage the Breakerless SE
module.
IMPORTANT: Ballast Resistor - This ignition is designed to work with the factory installed ballast resistor.
The ballast usually takes the form of resistor wire that is part of the engine compartment wiring harness. It may
also be in the form of a small white ceramic block mounted on the firewall in series with the +12V supply to the
coil. Its purpose is to limit current to prevent coil overheating and point burning. The ballast typically has a
resistance in the range of 1.2 to 1.8 ohms. The ballast resistor (or resistance wire) should not be removed
when installing the Breakerless SE
COIL
The Breakerless SE is optimized for use with either the factory original coil or Breakerless Replacement
Plus series coil. Substitute coils that have a primary resistance of 1.2 to 1.8 ohms are also compatible. Very
low resistance MSD Blaster and Accel Super coils are supplied with a supplemental resistor to raise the
primary resistance to 1.5 ohms. Failure to use this supplemental resistor will damage the Breakerless SE
module.
IMPORTANT: Ballast Resistor - This ignition is designed to work with the factory installed ballast resistor.
The ballast usually takes the form of resistor wire that is part of the engine compartment wiring harness. It may
also be in the form of a small white ceramic block mounted on the firewall in series with the +12V supply to the
coil. Its purpose is to limit current to prevent coil overheating and point burning. The ballast typically has a
resistance in the range of 1.2 to 1.8 ohms. The ballast resistor (or resistance wire) should not be removed
when installing the Breakerless SE
Last edited by 65GGvert; 10-26-2018 at 04:16 PM.
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well, I'm not giving up on the TI system, but I'm going to have to install all new parts in the components to make sure I'm not working with NON WORKING parts. The tiny wires from the TI distributor are a little frayed. To replace them I have to purchase a new magnetic pickup because the wires are integrated into the pickup. this costs $200. I also should replace the circuit board in the amplifier with one of the new solid state boards because I can't be sure about the old board either. Now we're up to $350 and I still can't be sure it's not a problem with the wiring harness or connections. I at least would like to be able to drive the car somewhere so that I can GET SOME HELP.
I should add the caveat that I went though this same ordeal with a real deal 427/450 66 car 20 years ago and never got it to run right with the TI system either. Dropped a Breakerless SE conversion into a stock distributor and the car SCREAMED all the way to 5500 rpm. It would probably have started by just staring at the ignition switch.
Anyway, as far as the resistor wire goes, I guess there's no reason to take a chance on frying my (brand new) TI harness. I'll try to hide a ballast resistor somewhere and stuff all the TI wires up under the ignition shielding. I need looks and RESULTS. This car will never be judgeable anyway.
Nope, 20 ohms is the lowest my multimeter scale goes. Since I'm reading 0.00 I'm doing something wrong anyway. (Guess I could read the ohm meter instructions).
Thanks to all for your input
I should add the caveat that I went though this same ordeal with a real deal 427/450 66 car 20 years ago and never got it to run right with the TI system either. Dropped a Breakerless SE conversion into a stock distributor and the car SCREAMED all the way to 5500 rpm. It would probably have started by just staring at the ignition switch.
Anyway, as far as the resistor wire goes, I guess there's no reason to take a chance on frying my (brand new) TI harness. I'll try to hide a ballast resistor somewhere and stuff all the TI wires up under the ignition shielding. I need looks and RESULTS. This car will never be judgeable anyway.
Nope, 20 ohms is the lowest my multimeter scale goes. Since I'm reading 0.00 I'm doing something wrong anyway. (Guess I could read the ohm meter instructions).
Thanks to all for your input
Last edited by Tcheairs38655; 10-26-2018 at 05:01 PM.
#9
Team Owner
If you decide to hide a ballast resistor be very careful, they get really hot
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#11
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A resistor wire dissipates the wattage/heat over a longer distance/area than a wire-wound ceramic unit (which concentrates all the heat in a small area).This difference in dissipation capability is why a ballast wire is more reliable than a wound/ceramic unit.
#12
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I'd like to test the resistance of the wire, but when I select 20 ohms on my meter and connect the multimeter to each end of the wire I get a 0.00 reading. Gues im not doing the resistance check right. Breakerless SE recommends using the ballast resistor but I already have the TI resistor wire installed in the harness. It would therefore be very convenient to use it.
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I attempted to measure the ohms from the end of the resistance wire where the side terminal that attaches to the + side of the coil (disconnected) to the Packard 56 connector which plugs into the 12v source from the ignition switch (unplugged). Reading is 0.00. The resistor wire makes a loop in the TI harness near the radiator support as you know..
How should I have taken the measurementt? Sent you a pm 69427....Thanks
How should I have taken the measurementt? Sent you a pm 69427....Thanks
Last edited by Tcheairs38655; 10-27-2018 at 08:40 AM.
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Oops...I see that I did not have the negative lead of the multimeter plugged into the Com plug...makes all the difference...How much resistance should a ballast resistor provide for a standard (non TI) ignition setup?
#15
Team Owner
See post #7 instructions.
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