Gears grinding 1st to 2nd
11-08-2018, 08:16 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Gears grinding 1st to 2nd
Took my 67 on it's first highway drive and on the way the gears started to grind going from 1st to 2nd. If I paused for a couple of seconds in neutral and then down to second there would be no grinding. Would adjusting the clutch help or is this a different issue. Appreciate your thoughts. Peter
11-08-2018, 09:09 PM
#2
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Took my 67 on it's first highway drive and on the way the gears started to grind going from 1st to 2nd. If I paused for a couple of seconds in neutral and then down to second there would be no grinding. Would adjusting the clutch help or is this a different issue. Appreciate your thoughts. Peter
First highway way drive since what? Engine overhaul, transmission rebuild, clutch replacement, etc.?
You say it grinds from 1st to 2nd in the first case, but then "down to second (from third?) it doesn't grind after pausing? What does this even mean?
What engine, what tranny?
Last edited by Easy Rhino; 11-08-2018 at 09:14 PM.
11-08-2018, 09:29 PM
#3
Team Owner
I would think four possibilities:
Low or wrong fluid
Clutch not releasing fully (you should notice it more sitting still)
Linkage not allowing shifter fully into second gear
Bad first/second synchronizer (unfortunately probably the most likely)
There are any number of internal problems in the transmission also possible.
Low or wrong fluid
Clutch not releasing fully (you should notice it more sitting still)
Linkage not allowing shifter fully into second gear
Bad first/second synchronizer (unfortunately probably the most likely)
There are any number of internal problems in the transmission also possible.
Last edited by 65GGvert; 11-08-2018 at 09:31 PM.
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c6miller (11-09-2018)
11-08-2018, 11:03 PM
#4
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You need to provide more information. What does "first drive" mean? Give some history on what has been done to the transmission and clutch, as of late. Give us the details of how it shifts in all forward gears, going up and going down.
Last edited by Dan Hampton; 11-08-2018 at 11:03 PM.
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c6miller (11-09-2018)
11-09-2018, 12:29 AM
#5
Race Director
Most likely bad synchros given that the pause in neutral eliminates the problem.
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c6miller (11-09-2018)
11-09-2018, 02:19 AM
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Second gear synchro rings are notorious for wearing because of the way we drive. If you stomp on it and bang second gear regularly, eventually, you will have to replace the poor little abused rings that take the pounding.......ask me how I know! 
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c6miller (11-09-2018)
11-09-2018, 07:02 AM
#7
Team Owner
I'm just gonna say this and others have their own opinions...
My original 63 early Muncie did the same thing when I purchased it; the car had basically sat for most of 4 years.....a slight grind on a 2-3 upshift on occasions. I sucked out every bit of fluid possible with my extraction system and refilled the transmission with fresh oil and the problem went away pretty quickly.. I used Amsoil GL-4 Synthetic. Yeah I know, synthetic is evil in this situation.(too much lubricity supposedly)...well 4 years has passed and still no issues...
Its a low-cost way to take a shot and see if it helps...
My original 63 early Muncie did the same thing when I purchased it; the car had basically sat for most of 4 years.....a slight grind on a 2-3 upshift on occasions. I sucked out every bit of fluid possible with my extraction system and refilled the transmission with fresh oil and the problem went away pretty quickly.. I used Amsoil GL-4 Synthetic. Yeah I know, synthetic is evil in this situation.(too much lubricity supposedly)...well 4 years has passed and still no issues...
Its a low-cost way to take a shot and see if it helps...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 11-09-2018 at 07:03 AM.
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c6miller (11-09-2018)
11-09-2018, 07:03 AM
#8
Tech Contributor
Yup pretty common. Hopefully it is not a new buy and you're now finding out where things were treated for the sale.
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c6miller (11-09-2018)
11-09-2018, 08:49 AM
#9
Race Director
Do the easy stuff first - especially if it grinds some going into reverse also, take most of the free play out of the top of the clutch pedal and see if that makes any difference. If not then closely inspect your clutch linkage including the pedal for any signs of wear and looseness. If everything looks tight and good shape then try the fluid change. If still grinding then you probably are going to need a rebuild.
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c6miller (11-09-2018)
11-09-2018, 10:53 AM
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
That's what I'm thinking. I adjusted the clutch last night now I'm waiting for the rain to let up so I can see if that helps. I've had the car since may and noticed that if I did not have the clutch all the way in, I could get a little grind between 1&2. I'm hoping the adjustment works and if not I'll do a fluid change. Don't want to think about a rebuild for now. Thanks to all for your advice. Peter
11-09-2018, 11:00 AM
#11
Race Director
That's what I'm thinking. I adjusted the clutch last night now I'm waiting for the rain to let up so I can see if that helps. I've had the car since may and noticed that if I did not have the clutch all the way in, I could get a little grind between 1&2. I'm hoping the adjustment works and if not I'll do a fluid change. Don't want to think about a rebuild for now. Thanks to all for your advice. Peter
Make certain after your adjustment that the throwout bearing is not constantly rotating when driving down the road. If it is, it will quickly fail.
Larry
11-09-2018, 11:04 AM
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Just shift a little slower going to second gear and/or just skip second gear period. That's what many do.
I'd never pull a transmission out for a rebuild just for a little Mickey Mouse problem like that.
But I know many would.
I'd never pull a transmission out for a rebuild just for a little Mickey Mouse problem like that.
But I know many would.
11-09-2018, 12:29 PM
#13
Team Owner
Guess I'm built differently - I literally can not stand a non-functional part on any of my cars - right down to a glove box light or windshield washers...
Let one thing go and compromise, then the next and then another and before you can blink you're rolling around in a 'turd' car...skipping gears, using the parking brake to stop at lights, using hand signals for turns, pushing the car in gear to get it started...driving at night with a flashlight to see the gauges...
I did ALL of those things back in my used car dealer days...
Let one thing go and compromise, then the next and then another and before you can blink you're rolling around in a 'turd' car...skipping gears, using the parking brake to stop at lights, using hand signals for turns, pushing the car in gear to get it started...driving at night with a flashlight to see the gauges...
I did ALL of those things back in my used car dealer days...
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Drothgeb (11-09-2018)
11-09-2018, 12:56 PM
#14
Race Director
I doubt a clutch adjustment would solve the problem since it occurs only on 1st/2nd. If it was a clutch adjustment issue it would likely be a problem on other shifts as well.
Also, eliminating all free play is a bad idea, as that can lead to throw out bearing wear/failure as Larry said.
Sure, try all the other tricks first, but I think it’s 10 to 1 odds the problem is the synchros.
BTW - transmissions can be fully functional without synchros - they used to build em that way on purpose. Even Dusenbergs came that way. You just have to know how to drive it properly in that case!
Also, eliminating all free play is a bad idea, as that can lead to throw out bearing wear/failure as Larry said.
Sure, try all the other tricks first, but I think it’s 10 to 1 odds the problem is the synchros.
BTW - transmissions can be fully functional without synchros - they used to build em that way on purpose. Even Dusenbergs came that way. You just have to know how to drive it properly in that case!
11-09-2018, 01:43 PM
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See post #12.
I learned to drive on a Model A Ford. No synchros. Next was a '47 Ford 1 1/2 ton truck. No synchros.
I prefer to keep things original as long as possible. Otherwise, the constant tinkering and mentally agonizing over marginal performance of some features of your car turn it into a Repomobile, not a GM Corvette. It also flattens your wallet and takes time away from driving.
Last edited by MikeM; 11-09-2018 at 01:44 PM.
11-09-2018, 01:56 PM
#16
Team Owner
Trying to figure out if I see any members' cars in here; especially at 1:58 minute mark:
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 11-09-2018 at 01:57 PM.
11-09-2018, 02:22 PM
#17
Race Director
Just to be clear, I suggested taking most of the free play out at top of the pedal - not all of it - which would be a bad move. This is primarily for a test. If the transmission no longer clashes syncros but insufficient free play can't be adjusted back in at the pedal without it returning - then need to start looking for worn clutch linkage or pedal parts or the pressure plate is one of those with overly long depression of the PP fingers required to release the disc from turning.
11-09-2018, 02:32 PM
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Last time I had a leaky wheel cylinder, I took the line off and capped it Took the cylinder apart and ran a Scotch Brite through it, cleaned up the rubber and stuck it back together. Sprayed brake clean on the brake shoes. Let the cylinder gravity bleed while I swigged down a cold one and put it back together.
Total cost was almost nothing and the brakes work fine.
That was two years ago. Could I qualify for your movie?
Total cost was almost nothing and the brakes work fine.
That was two years ago. Could I qualify for your movie?
11-09-2018, 02:32 PM
#19
Race Director
Trying to figure out if I see any members' cars in here; especially at 1:58 minute mark:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XekFdscMa8M
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XekFdscMa8M
11-10-2018, 06:27 AM
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My car sometimes has a minor gear clash from 3rd to 4th when the car is cold. Double clutching solves the problem until the car warms up.
Steve
Steve