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Mine does not work and as I discovered today, I left the key in my 66 on "run" and killed the battery ( yeh I know...dumb ***). My washer never worked since the day I purchased her a year back, was a winter project. I searched the forum and had a clear vision with regard to direction until I found the battery dead. Looking at the pump, I have a medium blue and brown wire attached. According to the wiring diagram in the shop manual it should be dark blue and a yellow so a previous owner was probably in there at one time. Could I not just hook a 12V power source up to it and see if I here the solenoid, see if the pump pumps? If so, does it matter which terminal I supply power to/ which one is ground? Thanks.
Guess you and I enjoy scanning the site on a Saturday. That is a nice link although at first blush the only info that looked applicable was 13 down for a 70's era Vette. There it was dark blue for ground and yellow for +12. I have a med. blue which may then be the ground, the brown for hot. I probably should just swap out the battery and then use a meter. Safer to trouble shoot from there. Thanks
Thanks, that helps a lot. Did not notice the copper ground strap but I will get back into it today. With this I can check all the grounds and should be able to supply 12V to the washer, work from there. Big help.
I had rebuilt the pump about 30 years prior and while the motor would operate at both speeds and stop as it should I couldn't get the pump to operate. The a few years ago the motor would continue to run after I had switched it off. I sent the motor and pump out for a restoration, and upon its return a couple of weeks late I checked the motor on my bench. After I get the car all back together, I tested the motor again and all was good, so then I tested he pump...it didn't work. Did some debugging and it turned out that the culprit was the switch itself. So I ordered a new switch and much to my amused anger it was not able to go through the cluster face far enough for the retaining nut to hold it in place. It seems that the manufacturer didn't machine the flat deep enough to fit properly. I used my Dremel tool to fix that issue and reinstalled the switch and connected it all back. Testing revealed correct operation of the switch, motor and pump. No priming of the pump was required, but I did have to clean one of the nozzle's opening to enable it to squirt.
Don
Last edited by vetsvette2002; Nov 25, 2018 at 05:07 PM.
I had rebuilt the pump about 30 years prior and while the motor would operate at both speeds and stop as it should I couldn't get the pump to operate. The a few years ago the motor would continue to run after I had switched it off. I sent the motor and pump out for a restoration, and upon its return a couple of weeks late I checked the motor on my bench. After I get the car all back together, I tested the motor again and all was good, so then I tested he pump...it didn't work. Did some debugging and it turned out that the culprit was the switch itself. So I ordered a new switch and much to my amused anger it was not able to go through the cluster face far enough for the retaining nut to hold it in place. It seems that the manufacturer didn't machine the flat deep enough to fit properly. I used my Dremel tool to fix that issue and reinstalled the switch and connected it all back. Testing revealed correct operation of the switch, motor and pump. No priming of the pump was required, but I did have to clean one of the nozzle's opening to enable it to squirt.
Don
My washer just quit on a rebuilt wiper / washer unit. It has been in since July, 2018. I replaced the switch when I replaced the wiper / washer. What did you do to determine that the switch was the culprit. That might be my problem. When I push the washer button, the wipers start up but they stop right away. If I move the switch to the low speed the wipers work but no washer. If the wipers are already working and I push the washer button i get nothing not even the pump clicking.
Got fed up with my stock pump early on, so put in this Tridon WP 300 universal pump which was cheaper, better and more easily replaced if failing. I keep it tucked behind my power brake vacuum booster. I've had to replace the pump twice on road trips over the past 20 years and most car supply stores stock them. 5 minute install job max.
Got fed up with my stock pump early on, so put in this Tridon WP 300 universal pump which was cheaper, better and more easily replaced if failing. I keep it tucked behind my power brake vacuum booster. I've had to replace the pump twice on road trips over the past 20 years and most car supply stores stock them. 5 minute install job max.
Thanks for the suggestion but I want to keep it original. Besides, at this point it might just be the switch. I am looking for a testing procedure at this point.
Original's great if your car's being judged. My car is enjoyed purely as a driver, and anything I do to it I do for the purpose of enjoying the ride. Yes, I use my wipers with a wash squirt if needed up to 80 mph. The universal pump just bypasses the original hose connections, but all the original stuff's still there.
As for the switch, heck, you might want to consider the wiper delay module (search this forum for details.) This module does not disturb any originality, it just plugs in neatly between the factory switch behind the dash and the harness. It's awesome. A 15 minute install with zero permanency to the mod. Works awesome!
windshield washer
The universal pump just bypasses the original hose connections, but all the original stuff's still there.