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[C2] Front brake calipers....what am I missing here???

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[C2] Front brake calipers....what am I missing here???

Old 11-28-2018, 02:54 PM
  #41  
SupremeDeluxe
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What do those rotors measure? They look very thick. You have aftermarket hubs as well, which I would verify dimensionally every way I could against an OE hub. Would be very easy to have a machining error on those parts. Do those hubs use the 69+ later larger taper bearings?

You are going to want to check lateral runout of the rotors with all the play taken out of the bearings before you go forward anyway. Spec is 0.002" I believe.
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Old 11-28-2018, 04:46 PM
  #42  
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Dumb question....is the bottom of the caliper bracket supposed to go BETWEEN the back of the spindle and the steering arm? Anyone have a picture of the back of their spindle showing the bracket-steering arm-spindle relationship?
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Old 11-28-2018, 05:04 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30 View Post
Dumb question....is the bottom of the caliper bracket supposed to go BETWEEN the back of the spindle and the steering arm? Anyone have a picture of the back of their spindle showing the bracket-steering arm-spindle relationship?
Just installed these calipers a few weeks ago, does this pic help?



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Old 11-28-2018, 05:21 PM
  #44  
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Yup, thanks...Ive got everything installed “correctly”
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Old 11-28-2018, 05:36 PM
  #45  
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Boy, I just can’t picture what your problem could be. Do you have similar interference on both sides of the caliper? I can certainly share your frustration.

Do you still have your old calipers? Would be interesting to throw one on and see if it is centered.

Last edited by 69ttop502; 11-28-2018 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 11-28-2018, 05:39 PM
  #46  
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I believe these calipers are interchangeable (not side specific), so either the hub, the rotor or the bracket are incorrect. What hub are you using?

It shouldn’t come to this, but you can shim the rotor. You MUST use hardened shims that are precision ground, not regular washers.

Last edited by Factoid; 11-28-2018 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 11-28-2018, 07:53 PM
  #47  
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I installed the wilwood calipers using my old pads and rotors first without any noticeable difficulties (more tolerance from their wear). However on phase two of the upgrade where I installed stock sized 11.75" diameter 1.25" thick two piece rotors with the new matrix pads that wilwood supplied with the calipers, I had to shim the calipers outboard about .060" and problem solved for me. If I didnt shim the calipers on their two mounting points, the wheels would not spin freely and the brakes would be dragging. My car uses the stock'65 spindles , hubs and caliper brackets. Perhaps go to the hardware store and experiment with some grade 8 washers of verifying thickness if yours need to be shimmed. You can then order the correct stainless steel shims from amazon.

hope I didn't miss your exact needs I sporatically read through the thread.
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Old 11-28-2018, 08:43 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by 69ttop502 View Post


Problem is on the front, the caliper mounts to the outside of the bracket so you can’t move the caliper inward.
Yep - my confusion over directions.
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:17 PM
  #49  
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This is long shot but I didn't see a picture of the front of the rotor. There is a difference in rotor offset between front to rear. This offset will move rotor about 0.10 toward car centerline. If you got all 4 rotors be sure you've got the fronts on the front. Rears have two extra holes on the mounting face.
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:19 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by 69ttop502 View Post
Boy, I just can’t picture what your problem could be. Do you have similar interference on both sides of the caliper? I can certainly share your frustration.

Do you still have your old calipers? Would be interesting to throw one on and see if it is centered.
Same interference in the same direction on both sides. This is a '64, so it was originally drum brakes....no "original" calipers and discs to throw back to on check with.
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:21 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Factoid View Post
I believe these calipers are interchangeable (not side specific), so either the hub, the rotor or the bracket are incorrect. What hub are you using?

It shouldn’t come to this, but you can shim the rotor. You MUST use hardened shims that are precision ground, not regular washers.
They're actually not... if you take a look at the one picture back in post #29, you can actually see the directional arrow on the back of the caliper. All 3 sets of pistons are not the same size...there is some engineering that's over my head pertaining to what size piston is on the advancing side of the rotor as it rotates. The hubs are from Van Steel....the stock replacements they sell with the timpken bearings and races already pressed in.

Last edited by FLYNAVY30; 11-28-2018 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:22 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Grampy View Post
This is long shot but I didn't see a picture of the front of the rotor. There is a difference in rotor offset between front to rear. This offset will move rotor about 0.10 toward car centerline. If you got all 4 rotors be sure you've got the fronts on the front. Rears have two extra holes on the mounting face.
You are correct....front rotors only have the 5 holes for the studs, my rears have the 5 stud holes plus two additional. I also purchased the rear hubs and rotors as a set from Van Steel with the rotor run out measured and the rotors indexed to the hubs.
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:24 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Patman65 View Post
I installed the wilwood calipers using my old pads and rotors first without any noticeable difficulties (more tolerance from their wear). However on phase two of the upgrade where I installed stock sized 11.75" diameter 1.25" thick two piece rotors with the new matrix pads that wilwood supplied with the calipers, I had to shim the calipers outboard about .060" and problem solved for me. If I didnt shim the calipers on their two mounting points, the wheels would not spin freely and the brakes would be dragging. My car uses the stock'65 spindles , hubs and caliper brackets. Perhaps go to the hardware store and experiment with some grade 8 washers of verifying thickness if yours need to be shimmed. You can then order the correct stainless steel shims from amazon.

hope I didn't miss your exact needs I sporatically read through the thread.
The calipers would need to be shimmed inboard....due to the way the caliper bracket mounts to the outside of the caliper, it is impossible to shim the caliper inboard at all.
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:29 PM
  #54  
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The front rotor should measure 2.72 from the mounting surface that contacts the hub to the inner face of the rotor
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Old 11-28-2018, 10:20 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Grampy View Post
The front rotor should measure 2.72 from the mounting surface that contacts the hub to the inner face of the rotor
Just measured my rotors:

1.25 inch thickness
2.75 inch from mounting surface that contacts the hub to the inner face of the rotor
3.125 inch overall thickness from outside face of the hat to the inner face of the rotor
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Old 11-28-2018, 10:47 PM
  #56  
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The .375 mounting surface thickness is in spec for a front rotor. The rear rotor is about 0.10 thinner. So the rotor is OK.

I don't have dimensions for the hub but if it's out of spec it could cause your problem
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Old 11-28-2018, 11:10 PM
  #57  
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Hope this will help, the gap between my rotor and the large bolt is about 0.285. If your gap is in the ball park then the hub/rotor assy should be ok and the problem is in caliper bracket/caliper.
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Old 11-28-2018, 11:20 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Grampy View Post
Hope this will help, the gap between my rotor and the large bolt is about 0.285. If your gap is in the ball park then the hub/rotor assy should be ok and the problem is in caliper bracket/caliper.
Thanks for the help Grampy, Ill take a look at that measurement tomorrow and see where mine sits.
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Old 11-29-2018, 10:13 AM
  #59  
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​​​​​​​Ill have to pull the rotor off and get some clay in there tonight to get an exact measurement, but my uncalibrated eyeball says thats less than 3-tenths....ive got a straight edge on the bolt in the pic just as a reference. I agree that this indicates the spindle/hub/disc relationship is correct and its clearly an issue with the caliper or caliper bracket
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Old 11-29-2018, 10:24 AM
  #60  
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Greg, I think you just determined that your bracket is the guilty party.
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