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Hell, I did it out in the driveway. Astronauts could see them from space.
Went to the local car show today. Parked the convertible next to a yellow ‘67 427 convertible that looked to be all original. There were only about 100 cars there, but I did win best Chevy with my frankenvette. The ‘67 owner looked pretty irritated. I voted this Alpha Romeo as best of show. It was gorgeous!
Went to the local car show today. Parked the convertible next to a yellow ‘67 427 convertible that looked to be all original. There were only about 100 cars there, but I did win best Chevy with my frankenvette. The ‘67 owner looked pretty irritated.
Went to the local car show today. Parked the convertible next to a yellow ‘67 427 convertible that looked to be all original. There were only about 100 cars there, but I did win best Chevy with my frankenvette. The ‘67 owner looked pretty irritated. I voted this Alpha Romeo as best of show. It was gorgeous!
Nice Pre-War Alfa … looks similar to the ultra rare 1938 Alfa Romeo 8C 2900B Spyder which was raced in the Mille Miglia by Villoresi
Won’t be much going on this week given I have a consulting gig. When I get home, I’ll make up the flex lines, blow out the new lines and pressure test the whole set up. That after I jack up the driver side of the body, check the rear brake line and paint the rest of the chassis. Things should start moving again at that point.
How dare you let work get in the way of me enjoying your build!
Yea Mark, thats awful selfish of you!! Checking in on your progress every morning (roughly 9 PM your time) accounts for at least 50% of my daily entertainment over here....especially now that I've found the end of the internet with regard to 15 inch wheel and tire combos!
Ok, I just posted this in the roll bar thread, but I’ll add it here so you all can hold me to account.
I just ordered a four point roll bar for my car. It is 1 3/4” od and made for a C2. It comes in four pieces - the main hoop, harness crossbar and two down legs and is designed for welding directly to the frame.
Here is how I plan to install it:
1. I’m using 1 3/4” tubing, so I bought four rubber grommets (eBay) that fit a 2” hole with a 1 3/4” id. and will slide them over the ends that weld to the frame and up the tube away from any welding heat.
2. Make four 6” x 6” fiberglass patches and drill a 2” hole in the middle. Slide these on the weld ends, up the bar and press the grommets into the 2” holes completely (sanding the bottom surface now so you can later bond them in place will make things easier).
3. Carefully measure and use a 4” hole saw to drill four holes as close to centered as possible (be particularly careful on the down legs as they are difficult to measure for the exact center).
4. The 4” holes allow you to access the top of the frame with your angle grinder to thoroughly clean the weld area to bright metal. Similarly prepare the weld ends of the roll bar, crossbar, and the the main hoop and down leg notches where they will be welded.
5. Weld in the roll bar, clean and paint the frame and up about a foot from the weld points.
6. Slide the patch/grommet assembly into place and bond it to the floor (where you position your roll bar may not be perfectly flat, but you can trim the patch and add more fiberglass mat as required for a clean and completely sealed floor)
7. Paint the rest of the roll bar and please add padding anywhere you or your passenger’s head could contact it.
When I later install the new carpet, it can be glued and then tucked into the grommets for a clean look.
Sounds like a solid plan....ballsy, but well thought out. Are you going to be able to keep the hoop far enough back that there's no risk of occupants bouncing their heads off it in an accident on the street? Also curious, what are you going to be using for restraints? The C5 seats aren't particularly conducive to correctly routed 5 point harnesses.
We'll throw down our torches and clubs.....for now......
I just ordered a four point roll bar for my car. It is 1 3/4” od and made for a C2. It comes in four pieces - the main hoop, harness crossbar and two down legs and is designed for welding directly to the frame.
Here is how I plan to install it: - (7.) Paint the rest of the roll bar and please add padding anywhere you or your passenger’s head could contact it.
It might be better, and easier, to attach some plates to the chassis with some captive nuts and then drill some holes in the bodywork through which you can use bolts to attach the roll bar - that way it can be removed later in need, yet still provide the structural rigidity you seek, and yes, padding is a good idea to prevent "eggshell" head trauma - what plans do you have for the exterior paint - Best Regards - GV
PS: with the installation of a "roll bar" are you intending to go racing ?
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Last edited by roadster65; 02-27-2019 at 12:42 AM.
There may be a few skirmishes in my future. I have a particular look in mind and I like the safety of shoulder harnesses and yes the roll bar around our noggins will be well padded.
I finally escaped from Philly, but only got a couple hours this afternoon before my wife’s hen party (book club) descended on our house: Cons - the noise is practically unbearable, Pros - lots of good food and the dog and I can hole up in the bedroom and watch scary movies.
I did fashion a bit of stainless screen to cover the exposed fuel lines in the wheel well and jacked up the driver side of the car.
Once I jacked up the body, I inspected the brake line starting at the rear junction. I didn’t want to replace it, but found this slightly flattened area. It wasn’t horrible so I was on the fence... ...and then about 10” farther forward just below the firewall I found this. I’ll be picking up a new piece of brake line tomorrow. Flat as a pancake she is! Probably not necessary, but it makes me feel better. This is the same mesh I’m going to use for the four vents behind the front wheels.
Hi Mark - Mesh looks nice - this is the mesh I use on the race car, only anodised blue - for me, what started out replacing crushed brake lines, ended up in a full nut and bolt rebuild
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Last edited by roadster65; 02-27-2019 at 07:01 PM.
Yep, GV, that is the slippery slope of owning an old car. I’ve tried to avoid too many rabbit holes, but already dropped into a few. The latest is replacing the dash. I’ll restore the existing dash for the ‘64 frankenvette who currently has a ‘67 dash (the ‘64 is so much better looking). I’m afraid I’m going overboard with the silver and black interior theme!
Marathon day today! The wife was at some fashion show for charity so I was non-stop. Well, I took a break for lunch and then again when I noticed the dog escaped from the back yard.
The frame is all cleaned, degreased and painted (I have a couple of touch up spots on each side where I jacked up the body). All that missing paint on the firewall is from the power washing. A repaint is next. Driver side jacked up. The dog talking back when I yelled at him for escaping. I’m so glad I decided to replace this brake line. There is absolutely no way the rear brakes were working. The line was smashed flat at one point. Tomorrow I’ll pick up a new line and replace it. Then I can lower the body, bolt it down and finish/bleed the brakes.
02-23-2019, 10:02 AM
.. Pooch 
