Thanks, Mike, but I do have a question. I shared the trim plate and was told by several people that the original interior was black and silver. However, as I look more closely at the interior, I’m not so sure. It looks like black to me unless someone went to a lot of trouble to change things. It is leather, though. Here’s a picture of the plate, what do you think?

Great advice as always PHN, thank you. You are correct, I simply hung them for the picture, no measurement, yet. Also, they will require some modification, but these were the closest to my desired look that I could find.

don’t know the wheelsize on that red car. However I don’t think 20s will look right unless they are filled with those carbon ceramic platters. And black 20s will really bring out the haters. If you guys want to autocross in CAM the tire selection will be limited to 200 tread wear. Otherwise for a retro look there is the Avon CR6ZZ. I’ve heard it’s sticky and lasts along time. Cobras run them. https://rogerkrausracing.com/pdfpric...CR6ZZ-2017.pdf

I love it! Can’t wait to see what you come up with. Following what FlyNavy said, I went with the Ridetech rear on my 69 which is still in its chassis stage. Because I am staying with 15’s and doing the Avon tires, I opted not to do the Ridetech front. I went with Global West uppers and their extended travel lower coilover arms to give shock travel on lowered cars. I am, however running Ridetech coilovers on the front also. The Global stuff is really beefy and solid stuff. Good luck with the build. By the way,the Avon tires are very sticky and really look great on these cars if you want to stay with 15’s.

This is my favorite flared C2. Don’t know who makes these flares but they keep the original belt line so you almost don’t notice they are flared.
Bill

Thanks gang. I ran Avon’s on both my Kirkham 289 Cobra and GT40 mk1. I can attest to both their stickiness and longevity.

Call it, Redheaded Step Children, on Drugs.

Hey, someone who gets it!

The rear flares will require minimal work, just some blending. The fronts will need significant sectioning and molding. I’m starting with the rear so I can see some progress before I bog down on the front.

Says the king of fat meats who inspired me to put 245/45-17’s on all four corners of my ‘64 convertible and I love the way it looks and handles, thanks Louie!

I love the 1964 Corvettes, that’s why I have two! Both will be Frankenstein’s monsters. Unknowingly, someone posted a picture of my ‘64 convertible earlier in this thread. If I’m president, Greg, then you are treasurer as we need someone else who really knows how to spend money on upgrades!

Thanks, as I said some will love it, some will hate it and some won’t care. I feel like this car was a few steps away from a hanger queen (Greg knows what that is) and is being saved.

Dont worry, Pat, you guys will be sick of me by the time I’m finished, just don’t expect me to move at the speed of light like you and Chris.

I’ve got two consulting gigs over the next two weeks, so I’ll be away and not much will get done. Plus, the engine died yesterday (electrical) so I have to fix that first. It sucks pushing it in and out of the garage. That said, if I do it enough times my arms might start to look like Pat’s! One can dream...

The best two things about these flares are the wheel well opening profile and the space they create for nice fat wheels with big dish and meaty rubber goodness. Other than that, they are ugly and really meant to be screwed onto a road race car where they can be easily replaced if damaged. However, they are the best I’ve found for my purpose and since fiberglass is so easy to work with, form a great foundation for the final look.

As I mentioned, the rear flares are really close, so let’s focus on the front flares. I really don’t like how they hang out there like a tumor. The rear of the front flare actually blends better than the front and if you study Brian’s car and imagine my front flare you will notice two things. First, the rear of the front flare is molded and blended into the fender, but does not have much modification. However, the front is completely changed and it is what causes your eye to be tricked into thinking they were part of the original mold. Then, the rear of the front flare tucks back in sharply, but the abruptness of the leading edge of the rear flare provides a balance. I’m not trying to copy Brian’s flares exactly, but the leading edge of his front flare is about perfect. I also think the stark contrast of the black flare in my pictures against my white car makes the raw flares look even worse.


This area outlined in black and the piece below it blend the natural body line into the leading edge of the flare. Image a piece of string connected from the lower left corner of the shape I drew to the middle of the flare (lower right corner) following the body belt line.

That string line forms a new belt line between the original nose as it blends into the side and the middle of the flare. Imagine if I cut out the Black outlined section of Brian’s car and glued it into the red outlined section on mine (same on the lower panel) and you will start to see how I will rework the front flares. More to come, but it’s raining today and I have to travel tomorrow.

You are totally doing what I am thinking about. I have the bubble flares but still looking for a coupe. The flared ones are getting harder to find on the west coast. So I might need some sawblades.

How about a hybrid of the bubble and wide quarter. Also the rears would look better if the leading edge of the flare extended down to the top of the rocker. You could cut up some Dynamic Corvettes quarters. Jeff has them too. His are bigger.