When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Don't know if you are going for show or street but this is a perfect time to clean all that dust, glue insulation or replace. You are breathing all that when driving close car. Also remove heater box, clean paint and check heater coil and install new gaskets. The flapper door inside heater box is the first to go and that is what seals out heat from coil heat. There is no seal at outlet.
Yes you could lube the wiper arm pivots and as I stated check your clutch pedal's side to side movement to see if there is a broken weld....perfect time to install LED dash bulbs ...if not at least swap in all new incandescent bulbs.
Add a bullet crimp connector on that dangerous, "always hot" orange glove box wire (female connector on the power/fuse side of course). Lube tach/speedo cable. If your windshield leaks - a good time to shoot a little sealant in the corners.. Make sure your wiring harness is good and fuse box is fine...
Check if the nylon bushing in your pedal support bracket are installed and in good shape, adjust your brake light switch if needed.. Make sure heater box sliders and fresh air vents operate easily. Make sure firewall insulation is good and tight to the bulkhead.
I don't know about yout heater/defroster question as I have Vintage Air A/C-heater-defroster.
Thanks for pointing out those things, Frankie. I checked the clutch/brake pedal, no broken welds. I need to squirt some oil on the nylon bushing but all looks okay. Need to bond insulation.
When I took out the glove box but couldn’t figure out how to take out the glove light, so I just cut the wire. What do you mean when you say add a “crimp connector”? Do you mean so it can be disconnected & reconnected?
Thanks for pointing out those things, Frankie. I checked the clutch/brake pedal, no broken welds. I need to squirt some oil on the nylon bushing but all looks okay. Need to bond insulation.
When I took out the glove box but couldn’t figure out how to take out the glove light, so I just cut the wire. What do you mean when you say add a “crimp connector”? Do you mean so it can be disconnected & reconnected?
Yes, so you don't have a bare "hot" terminal hanging down and you don't have to mess with the fragile glove box light every time you work in that area..
Now the radio panels. These panels only had one screw in front holding them in. I see a fastening point in the rear of the console which looks like it coordinates with the holes in the panels. I ordered radio panel support clips. Where and how do they attach? Don’t find them in the assy manual. Also, there is a square hole in the L/H panel that looks like something goes there, what please?
That hole is for the power antenna switch. Not sure about the other question, I didn't notice anything like that (or at least I don't remember it) when I had these panels to rebuild my clock a few years back.
Don't know what year car you have but a 63 has 2 holes in the front, as shown in picture and 1 hole in rear that fastens to the heater output. There are no holes in bottom as the horse shoe molding holds
bottom in place.
Today I worked on the steering rag joint while I'm waiting for parts. I replaced the parts based on photos from other cars, so I'm looking for verification that I've assembled this correctly. Also, does anyone know the torque valves of the bolts?
Also, is there any kind of a seal between the defroster duct and heater? Big gap on mine.
NOPE. That gap is there by design intent; if the bottom of the duct is attached to (or just touching) the heater case, heater noise (vibration, "coolant gurgling", etc.) will be transmitted by the duct to the fiberglass instrument panel and amplified, and it can get really loud. Standard Chevy design practice has always been to isolate the defroster duct by not attaching it to the top of the heater case.
NOPE. That gap is there by design intent; if the bottom of the duct is attached to (or just touching) the heater case, heater noise (vibration, "coolant gurgling", etc.) will be transmitted by the duct to the fiberglass instrument panel and amplified, and it can get really loud. Standard Chevy design practice has always been to isolate the defroster duct by not attaching it to the top of the heater case.
Good to know, makes sense. Thanks for the explanation, John!
The bulk of my parts should arrive tomorrow, I hope, then I’ll start assembling everything. Behind the radio I came up with some wires I’m not sure about.
1. What does the green bulb with a clip do and where does it go?
2. The 3 or 4 connector with red overspray has some clipped wires. Is this for the radio? Are any of these wires speaker wires?
3. And the connector right above it?
1. Radio bulb
2. Radio connector
3. Could be the speaker, I'd have to see a better picture...
I'd say that at some point somebody stuck in an aftermarket radio and just clipped the original ground/power wires off the connector shown and used them to power the new radio...
1. Radio bulb
2. Radio connector
3. Could be the speaker, I'd have to see a better picture...
I'd say that at some point somebody stuck in an aftermarket radio and just clipped the original ground/power wires off the connector shown and used them to power the new radio...
Great, thanks Frankie, that’s exactly what happened. I intend to use the existing Retrosound radio but fix the wiring, kind of a mess. I’ll have to trace down the power & “memory” wires and then run my own speaker wires.
03-17-2019, 04:52 PM
