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for me I would ask to have it removed and take more of the price
It is not really about if the car is worth more or not. It would be worth more to a collector if it was all original. As a driver, it is as a fuel injected car because you can actually drive it when you want so to speak. It doesn't matter if is 15 degrees outside or 100 degress, it is going to start and run good. You are also not going to stink like burnt fuel all the time and depending on the system you get it can control timing and it will have a better handle on it then the mechanical and vacuum advance.
So the FiTech is good, we have sold a bunch and installed them and no issues yet. I have had one fuel regulator that we do not even use on it go bad, but that is a bosch product and not a FiTech issue. The Fast was a great system 10 years ago and for a stand along system it is still good. Holley bought everyone that was anyone in the business minus Fast. I am getting ready to install a Sniper system but that system is on the same level as the FiTech. If you want to really move up you need to go to the Holley Dominator or HP ECU's. There is a ton of technology built into them and they are easy to program and get running.
It is not really about if the car is worth more or not. It would be worth more to a collector if it was all original. As a driver, it is as a fuel injected car because you can actually drive it when you want so to speak. It doesn't matter if is 15 degrees outside or 100 degress, it is going to start and run good. You are also not going to stink like burnt fuel all the time and depending on the system you get it can control timing and it will have a better handle on it then the mechanical and vacuum advance.
So the FiTech is good, we have sold a bunch and installed them and no issues yet. I have had one fuel regulator that we do not even use on it go bad, but that is a bosch product and not a FiTech issue. The Fast was a great system 10 years ago and for a stand along system it is still good. Holley bought everyone that was anyone in the business minus Fast. I am getting ready to install a Sniper system but that system is on the same level as the FiTech. If you want to really move up you need to go to the Holley Dominator or HP ECU's. There is a ton of technology built into them and they are easy to program and get running.
Excellent summary from one of my favorite suppliers and in line with my experience. Yesterday, I took a break from fat boy and spent a couple hours reading the Sniper installation and tuning manual, given I am more familiar with the FiTech system. Very impressive and it appears really straight forward to install and tune. Also, to an earlier poster’s valid concern, it requires no laptop or secondary generic technology solution to program so no worries about obsolete secondary technology.
To the OP, when (not if) you do this, please start a detailed build thread as it will be very interesting, plus may help dispel some of the no longer valid concerns that regularly crop up about the voodoo of efi.
I have an Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 on my C1. So far, so good. Supposed to be self-learning, though I haven't used the (provided) tablet to check if it's changed anything.
I have an Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 on my C1. So far, so good. Supposed to be self-learning, though I haven't used the (provided) tablet to check if it's changed anything.
I have a Mass Flo sequential EFI installed for 5 years now. Has been perfect. System includes distributor and ignition with a single plane intake. Has a port if you have a problem you can plug in and
check engine code. Never have had to use it. Self learning and ECU controls everything.
I don’t like the expense, but I would argue that this is the best system on the market! Chris is an amazing engineer and the self tuning on this system is just phenomenal! I’ve used two of his systems and they run flawlessly.
I love the Holley sniper, but if you have the extra money, the port injection efi from mass flo is worth it. You can literally bolt it on and drive cross country.
I don’t like the expense, but I would argue that this is the best system on the market! Chris is an amazing engineer and the self tuning on this system is just phenomenal! I’ve used two of his systems and they run flawlessly.
I love the Holley sniper, but if you have the extra money, the port injection efi from mass flo is worth it. You can literally bolt it on and drive cross country.
Your right Chris was great to work with and you can call him directly. He programs each ECU based on the engine and car your going to install the system on. And again your on the money it ran great right out of the install and got better when is learned your driving style.
Well, based on this thread and my desire to have fuel injection, but concerned about the additional work, I just bIt the bullet and ordered my engine for fat boy. Did you know if you order a Blueprint engine with a Holley Sniper, they will set it up and dyno it with your system installed? That was enough for me!
It is not really about if the car is worth more or not. It would be worth more to a collector if it was all original. As a driver, it is as a fuel injected car because you can actually drive it when you want so to speak. It doesn't matter if is 15 degrees outside or 100 degress, it is going to start and run good. You are also not going to stink like burnt fuel all the time and depending on the system you get it can control timing and it will have a better handle on it then the mechanical and vacuum advance.
So the FiTech is good, we have sold a bunch and installed them and no issues yet. I have had one fuel regulator that we do not even use on it go bad, but that is a bosch product and not a FiTech issue. The Fast was a great system 10 years ago and for a stand along system it is still good. Holley bought everyone that was anyone in the business minus Fast. I am getting ready to install a Sniper system but that system is on the same level as the FiTech. If you want to really move up you need to go to the Holley Dominator or HP ECU's. There is a ton of technology built into them and they are easy to program and get running.
I went with FI on my 67 for two reasons. #1 is having correct mixture all the time. I have disassembled many small block Chevys with 200K on them that showed very little wear on the bores which I attribute to FI. My C4 had a leaking head gasket so I pulled the heads to take a look at the problem and expected to remove the engine for a rebuild. Well, I found everything perfect after 180K, so I just buttoned it up and have put another 20K since then. That comes from not washing the cylinder walls with gasoline. #2 the final straw came when my C2 started running a little rough, so I popped the hood and found a pint of gasoline sitting on my hot engine from a stuck float. No telling how much gas ran down over my pipes and wires, I don't have to tell you how that might have turned out. Run a Fitech, in-tank pump, stock air cleaner, looks very natural under the hood, and runs perfect.
Has anyone had experience with the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 system? I'm considering one on my '58. The engine I have is a NOM 283 low HP with Rochester F.I. I'm having perc problems that keeps me sort of "grounded". I was thinking of using their sump pump system instead refitting the fuel tank. Any thoughts? I am looking for better reliabillity and not speed and such.
Has anyone had experience with the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 system? I'm considering one on my '58. The engine I have is a NOM 283 low HP with Rochester F.I. I'm having perc problems that keeps me sort of "grounded". I was thinking of using their sump pump system instead refitting the fuel tank. Any thoughts? I am looking for better reliabillity and not speed and such.
There are many things you can do to mitigate FI fuel perc which cost significantly less than any aftermarket EFI system.
They are described in detail in this thread. Have you seen it?
Thanks Jim, yes I followed the thread closely and I have been gathering some of the stuff to try to solve the problem, ie nylon bolts for the injector block hold-downs, the fan to cool the spider and associated ducting and the electric fuel pump. I have yet to install these but expect to get to them soon. I thought of contacting you on the mods you did with the steel fuel lines and the conversion to reroute fuel back to the F.I. pump. I'm not the tinkerer that a lot of members like yourself are but appreciate y'alls thinking here. To me, the mods reflect a lot more than just tinkering.
Thanks Jim, yes I followed the thread closely and I have been gathering some of the stuff to try to solve the problem, ie nylon bolts for the injector block hold-downs, the fan to cool the spider and associated ducting and the electric fuel pump. I have yet to install these but expect to get to them soon. I thought of contacting you on the mods you did with the steel fuel lines and the conversion to reroute fuel back to the F.I. pump. I'm not the tinkerer that a lot of members like yourself are but appreciate y'alls thinking here. To me, the mods reflect a lot more than just tinkering.
Thanks to all,
Gary
If you followed what Roberto and I did to cure fuel perc on our respective FI units, your take away should be that it can be done. Too, the expense isn't huge.
If you decide to convert to the steel fuel lines and add fuel recirculation, I'd be happy to help.
Last edited by jim lockwood; 04-15-2021 at 08:19 PM.
01-27-2019, 05:41 PM
