DONR

I took my clock apart so I could get the gears in it working. I was able to do that, but when I applied voltage to it it still would not run.
I suspect when the gears got hard to turn the coil burned up in it. Can I just buy just the coil for the clock somewhere? I know I can send it off to someone, but I am one to test my skills on things that don't work.
Thanks for your help.
Don

quahog

There is a set of points in the clock if it is of original design, these points snap open when energized winding the clock . You may find that the points are stuck , if so you may be able to open the points manually , winding the clock, with luck and a little exercise it may work. If not you can buy the internal mechanism and replace it yourself , both the original design and an quarts are available, check with the various corvette vendors , I doubt you'll find just a coil . Hope this helps Jeff

Frankie the Fink

Clock Works put an OEM style Borg mechanical movement in my 63 clock for $159.

DONR

I did check the points. They were not stuck. I have not found a place to buy the original design internals.

Donald #31176

In 1990s Instrument Services Inc in Janesville, Wisconsin sold parts for 1963-67 Corvette clocks.. I have a parts list that lists Magnet Coil Assy for $4.00.

Phone # 800 558 2674
(608) 755 0993

survivor66

If the gears turn when moving the escapement by hand, they may need cleaning or lubrication. I used a few drops of acetone at gear bearing points and that loosened them up. Be sparing with the acetone as it is a strong solvent. You might not need any oil - I didn't and it's running years later.

58n65

When I open the points up, my clock works perfectly. But as soon as I apply power, the clock stops. I've sprayed the gears with WD-40, exercised the gears by turning the winding **** (or whatever it's called, and get the same result.

Any ideas on how to fix this issue?

Thanks,
Dex.

JohnZ

Yup - send it to Clockworks.

58n65

Thanks JohnZ! Today, I tested the points and there was no continuity from one side to the other, thus not allowing the ground to reach the relay. I put on my magnifying glasses and saw a black spot in the center of the receiving side of the points, so I used my pocket knife to remove it. After that I had continuity, but it was late so I didn't test it again. Hopefully either tomorrow or Thursday I can connect the 12VDC power supply to it to see if it works before I put it back together AGAIN.

Thanks,
Dex.

58n65

I found this video that shows how to replace one of the contact points. Not sure if this is what I'd do or not, but it worked.


Thanks,
Dex.

58n65

UPDATE!!! Tested the clock and all is working fine. I filed both sides and no continuity and just one spec kept it from touching. It's amazing what a little spec of whatever can cause issues!!!

Thanks,
Dex.

GUSTO14

We all talk about filing the points in the original mechanically wound clocks, and it does work many times, I know because it was something I did to mine in 1969 and it worked 'like a clock'.

However, for longevity purposes, use a fine grade of emery paper as a final step on the contact points. The smoother the final finish, the longer the clock will continue to work before requiring its next 'filing'...

Good luck... GUSTO

58n65

Thanks Gusto! I used the term "filing" but I actually first used coarse sandpaper (maybe 120 grit) and then finished with a fine sandpaper (maybe 800 grit). I only lightly rubbed the contacts. The receiving side seemed to be slightly concave, so I think that is why the black spot was not removed during the "sanding" process.

Thanks,
Dex.

My1967

The solenoid or "coil" in my 1967 clock has fried as shown by the black film on the middle of the windings. Does anyone know how to go about rewinding the solenoid? What are the steps to remove the electromagnet from it's mount?
Thanks

mike coletta

Might get better results if you ask your "very own question", instead of tacking on to an old post.

My1967

Thanks Mike. I will.

JF in MI

I have rebuilt many aviation electro/mechanical clocks built by the Borg which use an almost identical system to yours. Burned points are very common on those that were made before they started putting a diode in the circuit to cut down on the arc when the points open. The usual cause of the coil burning out is when the battery starts to die from sitting a long time or accidentally leaving the lights on. It requires a very low amp slow blow fuse IIRC (don't remember the amp rating) that doesn't always work. What happens is that when the points close and the battery is too weak for the coil to bump them open they stay closed. The remaining power then slowly fries the coil. Happened to the Borg in my 60 and I replaced it with quartz which won't do that.

426 Hemi

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-c2-clock.html