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A lot of the time the needle gets 'stuck' at the highest RPM the engine attains. By this I mean when I take off from idle the tach will rise to read, say, 1,500 rpm. But then it stays 'stuck' at this reading until I rev the engine higher. Ditto will happen at the new higher rev reading. When I stop the car, or on occasion when simply idling for a time at a stop light, the tach needle will drop back to the actual engine speed. This process of stuck high readings is repeated most times I drive the car.
Anyone know what might be wrong with my tach? What would cause this behaviour?
I'm considering my options here, so appreciate your views on the following:
Send the whole cluster in for restoration. Not cheap. I believe my cluster has been restored previously because the gauge dials look pretty fresh for a 52 year old car. So it might be redundant to have the whole cluster re-done if the only issue lies with the tach itself.
Replace the tach gauge only. The complete new gauge is offered for sale by Long Island Corvette Supply (LICS) for $168, and by Paragon at $148. Not sure why the price difference, but more on that later. Is it feasible for me to replace the tach gauge myself? Is this a complicated and delicate operation?
My car has the 'Speed Minder" buzzer option, a '67-69 only option. This means the speedo and tach needles don't have the chrome tails on their ends. If I replace the tach gauge will I be able to use my old gauge needle on the new tach gauge?
Now onto the tach faces on the gauges being offered by each vendor. The gauge offered by LICS has a pale yellow caution zone on the dial. But the Paragon caution zone is noticeably more orange than yellow. Which caution zone color is correct?
If any of you have tacked replacing the tach guage in your cluster, I'll be glad to hear your tips/advice.
I think this is a classic issue that requires cluster removal and send the tach out for professional resto. While out, clean the cable case, it's bound to have debris and gunk inside. Do a search for details on disassembly if you still want to do the work. It's not hard doing basic replacement. Dennis
Send the cluster out to Joe Ray or Brian of Corvette Specialties - get the speedo done at the same time....the cable driven gauges are the most prone to problems, the small gauges tend to hang in there - those might just need a check out and calibration and you say your faces don't need restored. You might get off easier than you think. Avoid the repro stuff if possible....I had a fit with repro fuel gauges 3-4 months back, wound up putting my 63 gas gauge face and needle on a 64 NOS movement...
This is one area you look at every time your backside hits the driver's seat - don't "cheap out"..
I've posted the instructions for pulling the cluster two dozen times - if you can't find them I'll do it again here...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Feb 12, 2019 at 04:21 AM.
Hey guys, just a note. I got a heads up on the crazy post above that I deleted and when reading this I saw the posts on the unpriced Non Supporting Vendor Parts posting. If you guys see something like this it would help the staff a lot if you would drop us a PM or Report the Post by hitting the little triangle icon on it. We don’t see every post here and we can’t address everything like this stuff unless you tell us. It would help us out a lot! Thanks.
There is a new listing of parts in the C1/C2 section that includes new in the box tachometers.
Send him a PM for the cost of one (no prices listed)
Phil
Hi Phil,
I looked on the parts for sale section and couldn't find any tachometers listed for sale.
Then there was this flurry of emails about the listing being no good because no price was included, then the stuff about non-supported vendors and how long it took C2Scho to write a post (which looks to have been taken down???)
Anyhow, can you direct me to the ad for tachometer new in the box ad listing?
How about an electric conversion? You could route the wires inside the tach cable housing, and exit them just before the dist.
Something ive considered when it comes time.
The vendors I talked to indicated the tachometer needle doesn't say in the same "rest" position if you convert to electric. This may not matter to the OP but just something else to consider.
The post was from Xx and I believe it was his first post.
As you are aware the forum rules state you must advertise with a price and his post had no prices so the moderator removed the post.
I did an advanced search for Xx and came up empty.
You could contact the moderator and ask how to contact him -
Phil
Thanks Phil,
I looked up JBL Specialty and it appears this may be a body shop business in Dulles, Virginia, that is now closed. They used to work on Corvettes also.
Perhaps the owner is clearing out some parts he had from his business?
How do I contact the moderator of this Forum to find out more about the ad that was taken down?
-Alex
Last edited by vettebuyer6369; Feb 15, 2019 at 11:21 AM.
Reason: NSV