6D2148

I pulled steering box apart today and was very happy that the worm gear and sector gear have no damage. I want to replace all bearings and races. I found all the parts I need on a web site except the races that are on the shaft at bottom and top of worm gear. Are these races available and replaceable?
Chip

CaptainEgg

Have you checked most of the Corvette vendors? It looks like the races come with the rebuild kits. Have you checked the forum archives?

DZAUTO

Are you referring to the races that are on EACH END of the worm gear (below)? If so, those machined races are part of the worm gear itself. The ONLY way to replace those races is to replace the worm gear.



BUUUUUUUUUUUUUT, if you are referring to the races for the worm gear which are INSIDE the steering box and the end cap which screws onto the end of the steering box, those are replaceable.

6D2148

The lower one on the end of worm gear, is pitted from water. Thanks Tom,I was afraid is was part of worm gear.
Chip

DZAUTO

You can, repeat, can keep, and use that worm gear-------------depending on how bad the pitting is.
Be sure it is sanitarily clean!!!!!!!!!!!
Install a new bearing and race in the cap. Use a good grade of chassis grease in the steering box.
The greatest loading in the steering box is between the worm grooves and the sector roller. If the surfaces of the worm and the surfaces of the roller are smooth and in good shape, you very probably will be OK. Yes, I fully realize that this situation would be less than ideal, but the loads on that lower end of the worm are not nearly as heavy as the loads between the worm and sector roller.

Pitting or damage as below, in either the roller or worm will result in noticeable nothingness or excess play in steering when turning.

6D2148

That is good news. I'll post up some pics later today.
Chip

DZAUTO

Great, I'd like to see the condition of that race surface.

6D2148

Pics!


Pits are NOT all the way around, just what you see in pic
Chip

DZAUTO

I would replace both outer races and roller bearings, and use that in a heartbeat!
If that is all the pitting there is, I would bet that you will not feel any notchiness when turning the wheel.

When you put the steering shaft/worm back into the steering box------------------------WELL GREASED-------------------then the next thing is to screw on the lower cap for the bottom end of the worm. Screw on the cap until all the end play is gone. Turn the steering shaft several times to assure the rollers are seated in the races. BARELY, BARELY tighten the cap again. Rotate the steering shaft. You just want to be sure ALLLLLLLLLL the end play is out of the worm/bearings. With new bearings and a worm with perfect races, there needs to be a slight amount of preload on the roller bearings. BUUUUUUUUUUUT, with the pitting that is on your worm, I would not recommend hardly any preload be applied to the bearings--------------------just make sure all the end play is out and then tighten the cap just a tiny, TINY schosh. If you feel ANY turning resistance after doing that, then it is too tight. Back off half a schosh, and turn the shaft.
You want all the end play gone, but ALMOST no preload--------------and I think you will be OK.
Once the steering box is fully assembled and adjusted, fill the box with a good chassis grease. In 59, a GM Service Letter was issued instructing REPLACING the 90w gear oil with chassis grease.

This is the article I put together a few years ago.

6D2148

Thanks Tom, I value your opinion, I will let you know how it feels at re-assembly.
Chip