Setting The Rear Toe
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 271
Likes: 33
From: Melbourne, Fl
Setting The Rear Toe
After rebuilding the complete rear end of the car it is time to set the rear toe. In the old race days we put jack stands around the car (not a Corvette), measured off of the frame to get a perfect square, then ran string along the sides of the car to make them parallel with the frame. We then adjusted the toe.
If that doesn't work, can any auto alignment shop do the rear alignment. I have installed the 'cheater' rear shims to make it easier. Pulling that bolt out would be too much of a pain.
If that doesn't work, can any auto alignment shop do the rear alignment. I have installed the 'cheater' rear shims to make it easier. Pulling that bolt out would be too much of a pain.
Last edited by 08redrocket; Apr 5, 2019 at 02:02 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 146
Likes: 16
From: Reynoldsburg Ohio
I had an alignment done on my '63 last year, and I just had a local alignment shop do the work. I can't remember what the cost was, but it was fairly inexpensive. There were older guys working there who were very familiar with the setups on the C2 and C3 Corvettes. You may just want to call around your area.
Last edited by jcerra; Apr 5, 2019 at 02:34 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Richardson Texas
I had an alignment done on my '63 last year, and I just had a local alignment shop do the work. I can't remember what the cost was, but it was fairly inexpensive. There were older guys working there who were very familiar with the setups on the C2 and C3 Corvettes. You may just want to call around your area.
Le Mans Master
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From: Maryland
St. Jude Donor '05, '09, '15
Tom
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Brentwood CA
I did this recently with my '69. I disconnected the spring and raised the hub carrier so the half shaft was parallel to the floor then mounted a bare rim to pull the string against. It's better if you set the camber before adjusting the toe.
Last edited by CrossedUp; Apr 6, 2019 at 05:44 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2014
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I always set the camber first to get the tires vertically level, after that it's important to get the track right before setting rear toe. At that point measure toe on the rear tires and do equal changes to both sides to obtain total toe in.
The last adjustment I make is to double check the camber to get approx 1/8"_1/4" negative camber. All these adjustments should be made with the suspension at the design ride height and weight on the floor, you can use floor tiles so the tires will slide easy.
One thing I do first is to make sure the front steering linkage is clocked correctly and the car steers straight down a flat straight road.
The last adjustment I make is to double check the camber to get approx 1/8"_1/4" negative camber. All these adjustments should be made with the suspension at the design ride height and weight on the floor, you can use floor tiles so the tires will slide easy.
One thing I do first is to make sure the front steering linkage is clocked correctly and the car steers straight down a flat straight road.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2017
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From: Central Michigan
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
You are correct. when I was in the alignment business, about 30 years ago, my shop was the only one in the corner of the state (CT) that I knew of that did C2 and C3 rear toe. Others not only didn't know how but if they did wouldn't do it including the dealers.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Temple Terrace Florida
I have used a few shops to do alignment on my 66 and 68. The shop tech always asks if the area is rust free. If you just rebuilt everything, that should not be a problem. Also, what type of shims are you using? Any shop would like to use the later slotted type of shims. The earlier type require the pivot bolt go through the shims. Most shops don't have the patience to deal with that install. Lastly, have the alignment specs you want in hand for the tech. Jerry
Le Mans Master
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From: The Golden Triangle, Florida
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '20 thru '25
You can find the specs in the back of the owner’s manual.
Steve
Steve
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: NYC NY
I always set the camber first to get the tires vertically level, after that it's important to get the track right before setting rear toe. At that point measure toe on the rear tires and do equal changes to both sides to obtain total toe in.
The last adjustment I make is to double check the camber to get approx 1/8"_1/4" negative camber. All these adjustments should be made with the suspension at the design ride height and weight on the floor, you can use floor tiles so the tires will slide easy.
One thing I do first is to make sure the front steering linkage is clocked correctly and the car steers straight down a flat straight road.
The last adjustment I make is to double check the camber to get approx 1/8"_1/4" negative camber. All these adjustments should be made with the suspension at the design ride height and weight on the floor, you can use floor tiles so the tires will slide easy.
One thing I do first is to make sure the front steering linkage is clocked correctly and the car steers straight down a flat straight road.
Race Director
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From: San Antonio, TX/Mahopac, NY
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Even if you find one who will attempt it, always bring your own shims.
I have a friend in San Antonio who owns a repair shop (mostly works on Porsche and BMW). He has an alignment rack, which is his specialty, and will take on odd ball alignment challenges (Sorry, but that is what we have become). He corner balanced and four wheel aligned my 1975 911 hot rod with coilovers all around and it was perfect. He will get my coupe when it is finished. I recommend finding someone like Berk who owns a small specialty shop and has an alignment rack. None of the major ones I know will take on the task.
I have a friend in San Antonio who owns a repair shop (mostly works on Porsche and BMW). He has an alignment rack, which is his specialty, and will take on odd ball alignment challenges (Sorry, but that is what we have become). He corner balanced and four wheel aligned my 1975 911 hot rod with coilovers all around and it was perfect. He will get my coupe when it is finished. I recommend finding someone like Berk who owns a small specialty shop and has an alignment rack. None of the major ones I know will take on the task.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Richardson Texas
Le Mans Master
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From: The Golden Triangle, Florida
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
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Thanks Leif! I didn’t know that.
That’s good to know because I’ve been looking around for an alignment shop and have been telling the technicians that I have the specs.
Where would the correct specs for radials be found?
Steve
That’s good to know because I’ve been looking around for an alignment shop and have been telling the technicians that I have the specs.
Where would the correct specs for radials be found?
Steve
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
I still run bias ply Goodyear red lines on my 1967. Recently had alignment done on all 4 wheels, along with a new set of Goodyears. Tech was a good guy (shop owner who loves and drives old cars) and I got a good alignment. Had to be at shop for 7 AM to get the work done due to high work loads by the shop. For a retired guy this is early. Still have to move a shim on the left rear trailing arm to get optimum toe. I will do this, but I am currently very close. Car rides nice/better after the alignment.
If someone needs the old specs, I can post here.........along with CF members experienced recommendations for the best setting for bias tires. JohnZ and many other have provided the settings for radials, but again, I can find my file copy and post up if needed. There are some differences, but not profound
Frankie and a few others live in Florida,m like the OP, and should have shop names available in OP needs. Even if OP has to travel a bit, getting a good shop and tech is all the difference.
Larry
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 779
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From: Redneck Riviera, FL
i hope to do my coupe in the near future. if there's an optimal setup for radials i'd love to see it for both
front and rear. some older cars benefit from additional front castor, is this also true of the C2?
front and rear. some older cars benefit from additional front castor, is this also true of the C2?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,911
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From: Richardson Texas
From John Hinckley:
Midyear alignment specs for normal driving on radial tires have been posted here dozens of times:
Front camber: 0*
Front Caster: 2.5* positive (if you can achieve it)
Front Toe-In: Zero to 1/16" TOTAL Toe-In.
Rear Camber: 1/2* Negative
Rear Toe-In: 1/32" per side
Midyear alignment specs for normal driving on radial tires have been posted here dozens of times:
Front camber: 0*
Front Caster: 2.5* positive (if you can achieve it)
Front Toe-In: Zero to 1/16" TOTAL Toe-In.
Rear Camber: 1/2* Negative
Rear Toe-In: 1/32" per side
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,501
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From: The Golden Triangle, Florida
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '20 thru '25
From John Hinckley:
Midyear alignment specs for normal driving on radial tires have been posted here dozens of times:
Front camber: 0*
Front Caster: 2.5* positive (if you can achieve it)
Front Toe-In: Zero to 1/16" TOTAL Toe-In.
Rear Camber: 1/2* Negative
Rear Toe-In: 1/32" per side
Midyear alignment specs for normal driving on radial tires have been posted here dozens of times:
Front camber: 0*
Front Caster: 2.5* positive (if you can achieve it)
Front Toe-In: Zero to 1/16" TOTAL Toe-In.
Rear Camber: 1/2* Negative
Rear Toe-In: 1/32" per side
Steve
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,273
Likes: 2,136
From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
From John Hinckley:
Midyear alignment specs for normal driving on radial tires have been posted here dozens of times:
Front camber: 0*
Front Caster: 2.5* positive (if you can achieve it)
Front Toe-In: Zero to 1/16" TOTAL Toe-In.
Rear Camber: 1/2* Negative
Rear Toe-In: 1/32" per side
Midyear alignment specs for normal driving on radial tires have been posted here dozens of times:
Front camber: 0*
Front Caster: 2.5* positive (if you can achieve it)
Front Toe-In: Zero to 1/16" TOTAL Toe-In.
Rear Camber: 1/2* Negative
Rear Toe-In: 1/32" per side
Thanks for posting the information. Only point to add is that the caster number you provided is for cars with power steering. For those of us still with manual steering, JohnZ number for desired caster = 1.5 degrees positive caster.I guess the only other thing to mention is that often the alignment printouts are all in degrees. So for toe, multiply the toe in 1/32 inch increments X 0.067 to get toe in degrees. This assumes a 27 inch diameter tire, like most of us have on our cars Total toe = toe from both wheels.........don't confuse total toe with toe from a single wheel. You need to add both wheels to get the total.
As an example 1/16 of total toe for the rear will show up as 0.134 degrees total toe. This should be split evenly between both rear tires, so that is 1/32 toe per wheel or 0.067 degrees per wheel.
According to the alignment guys, their alignment machine software will convert inches to degrees and visa versa. You just need to ask them to do it. Of course this assumes a modern machine with the computer based software. But just in case, you can use what I posted above. You can also go on-line and find digital calculators for tires sizes that are different. But the 27 inch OD tire is a pretty good estimate to use.
Larry
Last edited by Powershift; Apr 6, 2019 at 01:29 PM.