My ‘65 327/300 won’t crank but clicks strongly. I went through starting circuit placing battery under load and removed starter to bench test. All is well. Battery cables are fairly new and all connections are sound. My next step was to check voltage at the purple ignition switch wire that attaches to the starter solenoid. I unhooked it from the solenoid, jumped it with a volt meter and placed the ignition switch to the ‘on’ position. I got 1 volt but I’m thinking I should be getting 12. Have I found the problem or am I missing something? Wondering if it’s a wiring problem at this point or maybe a bad ignition switch. Also, could there be an issue with the bulkhead connector? Any input would be greatly appreciated!

 

Have someone try to start the car. When cranking and making a clicking tap the starter with a hammer

 

Thanks for the input but I had the starter out of the car and bench tested it. It worked fine.

 

Yes you should get 12 volts at the purple wire when the ign switch is in START. Check it starting at the connector above your wiper motor and work back to the switch.

 

If you're saying you disconnected the purple wire and connected the meter between the purple wire and the connector on the solenoid, then no, you shouldn't get 12v. If you leave the wire connected, place the positive of the meter on the connection and the negative on the meter to ground, then yes you should get 12v. The purple wire passes through the bulkhead connector, so you could have someone try to start the car and wiggle the connector to see what happens.
Every time I've experienced clicking but no start, the issue has been either a bad solenoid or a weak voltage to it caused by either a weak battery, or poor connection. If they tested the starter by connecting 12v across the starter itself and it spun, then you could still have a bad solenoid. If you connect everything up in the car, and you have 12v on the large wire from the battery, and 12v on the purple wire when you turn the key to start, I'd bet on a weak solenoid. Fairly inexpensive and easy fix. If you have a lift or can safely get under the car, turning the key and thumping the solenoid while someone holds it to start will sometimes prove the solenoid is the problem, but not always. I'd check the voltages mentioned and if all ok, I'd replace the solenoid. I did that on my 65 300hp car and never had the problem again.
The important part is making SURE the supply voltage is good, and is producing enough current to engage the solenoid. I would even try it with a jumper battery across the car battery. It takes some current to engage the solenoid and spin the starter to turn the engine over. Remember, just having 12v on a battery doesn't mean it's supplying full current. Measure the voltage on the battery and turn on the headlights or try to start the car, see what the voltage does.

 

thanks, will do!

 

GG, he should get 12 volts between the purple wire and the solenoid terminal if he's pulled the wire off. Most voltmeters don't draw much current. At no current, voltage drop through a good solenoid coil will be zero. Just reminded me of another way to isolate the problem, jumper a hot terminal to the purple wire, first at the connector above the wiper motor, then at the firewall connector.

 

Problem solved. Turned out to be the starter after all. Even though I had it out of the car and it functioned properly with no load applied it wouldn’t turn the engine over. I installed it less than 2 years ago (remanufacted unit). Hopefully this one will last a bit longer.