Jmarcet85

Hey guys looking for some help. I replaced my battery with a 34c now I'm having issues with issues with regulator sending 17.9v @ 1500 rpm to battery with a fully charged battery. Had no issues before. Thanks

Frankie the Fink

The V/R is running away - don’t operate the car like that for long - the charging circuit checkout procedures are in the passenger car shop manual.

A correct replacement 12V lead-acid battery shouldn’t cause this.

dplotkin

I agree it shouldn't. But I can see a scenario in which a new battery that is otherwise discharged will suck maximum current from the alternator, pegging the regulator contact and full fielding the alternator rotor. A marginal regulator can under these circumstances stick. Try giving it a whack, it may free up. Regardless, Frank's advice is best. Follow the shop manual procedure for charging system diagnosis so that you learn what is wrong and fix it rather than get lucky.

Dan

Dan Hampton

This is a '62. Alternator?

Jmarcet85

Generator doesn't charge at idle but as rpms go up so does voltage/ amperage buries the gauge passed 30+ just over
1500rpm. I believe the generator is good. Going to do the test tomorrow. Leaning towards the regulator I just find it weird that I had no problem until I put in the new battery.

SDVette

Maybe you got a bad battery?
Check the voltage before you start the car.

dplotkin

I'm sorry, I missed that it was a 62 and not a alternator. However my theory as far out as it may sound would apply in either case. and notwithstanding this, the symptoms described point to a bad regulator under almost any circumstance. I think he has a sticking voltage regulator as I first indicated.

Dan

Frankie the Fink

I've seen batteries with a bad cell read resting voltage fine......and fail under load....
The resistance of the battery does act as "ballast" in the charging system though...

You could take the battery out and carry it to an Autozone for a load test just for piece of mind...
All that said, your OLD battery may have failed because the dicked up regulator fried it...

Donald #31176

If a regulator is needed try to get an old NOS Delco 35 amp regulator. from a site like EBAY. The auto parts stores carry overseas made regulators that usually dont cut it.

1119002Es are too $$$$.. 1119168 is a good reasonable replacment.

Frankie the Fink

Bear in mind any regulator replacement will have to be for a generator, not an alternator...

409gary

I assume you polarized the system properly...after reconnecting generator and VR to the battery. A jumper wire on VR is usually all that is needed.
Not necessary with alternator, but a must with a generator.

dplotkin

It is only the generator that need be polarized and even then the procedure is usually unnecessary unless the generator was apart or in disuse for years. It is a valid point and the OP should consider it given that it takes all of two seconds to perform.

Charging system trouble is easy to diagnose, there is not much to it, bat, reg, gen. Best to shoot the trouble, arrive at the culprit, replace only that necessary, feel good about a job well done, go have several beers or glasses of wine or whatever. I actually relish this sort of trouble, its always fixable in my garage and its never a lot of money.

Dan

Jmarcet85

I actually forgot to polarize it. The car hasn't been sitting so I would assume it was ok. I did polarize it after to see if anything changed, which it didn't. Battery is brand new which I charged fully before installing it. I'm thinking it the regulator because the battery gauge reading is normal at idle 0 as the rpms go up so does the gauge until it buries it.. so it seems to me that the voltage regulator is most likely the culprit. The points on the cutout relay looked like they might have fused.. I ordered a new regulator from zip. So I'll see what happens. As far as battery being defective I would assume the voltage should still not exceed the normal voltage unless the the regulator was allowing it to send unregulated voltage . 17.9 v at around 1500 rpm. I'm going to have it tested just in cause to rule that out.

Frankie the Fink

I've has some bad luck with those repros V/R so I wish you luck...

Jmarcet85

I'm interested in this idea but would like to see some opinions and if anyone has used the 1119168 as a replacement on a 62.

Donald #31176

Thats the regulator Im using matched to a 1102174 generator. Actually you can also use a 30 amp regulator .for generators.

SDVette

I was going to add that you might want to consider a solid-state regulator.
I bought one from Clover Systems (made here in SoCal) 18 months ago.. Nice unit.. Fits under the stock cover..
But I just noticed their website is GONE... Damn, another one bites the dust.

Jmarcet85

Tested the field circuit with a ohmmeter and I get a reading of 1.8. So I tested another one in my basement that is in working condition when changed and get a reading of 8.0. Can someone help me make sense of this?