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Hope this hasn't been beaten to death. Gonna go with headers during an engine swap this winter. Leaning towards Dynomax because they are ceramic coated inside and out. JEG's seems to have the best price at $220. What about fit and leaks? Anyone have experience with these? I have no pwr accessories in the engine area. Also, do they come out at the same height as the pipes so hooking 'em up is easy? I do have the MOROSO 8 qt oil pan with side kickouts but they do not go past the oil filter so it shouldn't be a problem there. Thanks.... :cheers:
Lots of guys in the C3 section swear by them. That's what I'm going with when I get ready to replace mine. I believe the collectors may end up a little bit lower than your existing pipes, but not by much.
I have Doug Thorley (now Doug's) headers on my '64 and couldn't be happier with them. When I replaced my stock manifolds, I told my wife "Now you realize this is going to make the car louder." Much to my suprise, she thought that that was great and muscle cars should be loud. Even more to my suprise, when I installed the headers, the car got QUIETER! It seems that the headers are of such a thick gauge steel that they retain and insulate the noise.
Mine are/were chrome which almost immediately turns blue. Several years after having them on, I had them ceramic-coated locally for $150/pr. They only do the outside and as far down as they can spray from either end.
Not only are the pipes heavy gauge, the header flanges are really thick and will not warp. The fit is fine, but the collector flange on the drivers side is right up to the firewall/floor. I wedged a piece of aluminum insulation to avoid any possible burning of the 'glass and have never had a problem.
They're not as cheap as some, but mine have been on the car for over 15 years and look and perform like new. And the power increase was easily noticable over the stock manifolds.
OK, just ordered the Dynomax Jet-Hot coated headers from JEG's, also got the Dynomax alt. bracket that they said would put it in the correct location. Hope they're right. :D Prolly have some 'splainin to do when this HUGE box shows up on my doorstep. :eek:
Header # is 289-86008, comes with all gaskets, reducers, nuts and bolts. The # for the bracket is a Dynomax # and does not correlate with the JEG's catalog. What he gave me was #88300 and said that's was all I needed. :cheers:
"Gonna go with headers during an engine swap this winter"
Hummm..A 350 with NO2 now.. What's the replacement Masterdave??
Inquiring minds want to know. More power??
Ted
I bought the engine as a running assy from a guy who said it was running great. It's a 79 L82 vette engine. Turns out it is an oil burner with one piston slapping when cold. I ringed it (std) and it went from burning 2 qts in 100 miles to 1 qt in 200 miles. So I shot it with NOS at 100 hp to see if the pistons would stay in the same holes they started in. :yesnod: ...and they have, but the pressure prolly didn't help the oval cyl walls/oil consumption problem. In the meantime I picked up a 73 truck 4 bolt 350 and bored it .030, installed forged TRW's and had it balanced. The new short block is in the garage on a stand waiting to go in. :D With the new headers and all the goodies from the existing engine installed it should make an estimated 400 hp......then you give it a little 'car crack' (NOS) and you're up there. Will make a nice fwy on ramp car.... :lol:
Anyone with DD2000 or the such wanna give me an estimate? BTW, the pulled engine will be bored/freshened and ready as a spare. :cool:
From: Bonner Springs Kansas... pay no attention to that man behind the curtain. Hay...I know that guy!
Re: Which headers? (MasterDave)
If you are going to put headers on the car, STOP AND THINK ABOUT HEADERS ON YOUR CAR WHEN YOU WERE A KID!! THAY LEAKED,THE BOLTS CAME LOOSE, THE GASKETS BURN UP!! :mad But now if your going to run then, Please use a gasket like (Dead Soft Aluminum Header Gaskets) Jegs part number 760-66011-Round,760-66012-Square, A Copper Collector Gasket (Mr.Gasket) and you will be sooo Happy :D you did :D I also use Grade 8 Locking Header Bolts ($65.00) :eek: for over a year and have had no leaks on a C-1 That we drive about 11000 miles a year!! This summer I Removed my steering box for a rebuild and put the OLD Gaskets Back In With no leaks!!! :chevy
If you are going to put headers on the car, STOP AND THINK ABOUT HEADERS ON YOUR CAR WHEN YOU WERE A KID!! THAY LEAKED,THE BOLTS CAME LOOSE, THE GASKETS BURN UP!! :mad But now if your going to run then, Please use a gasket like (Dead Soft Aluminum Header Gaskets) Jegs part number 760-66011-Round,760-66012-Square, A Copper Collector Gasket (Mr.Gasket) and you will be sooo Happy :D you did :D I also use Grade 8 Locking Header Bolts ($65.00) :eek: for over a year and have had no leaks on a C-1 That we drive about 11000 miles a year!! This summer I Removed my steering box for a rebuild and put the OLD Gaskets Back In With no leaks!!! :chevy
Dis is 'zactly why I been fightn' puttin' da dang tings on fer a coupla years now. :crazy: Der's jus too much HP to be gained buh gittin' wit 'um. I will use da good bolts 'n gaskets. Here's hopin' fer da best!! :lol:
In the meantime I picked up a 73 truck 4 bolt 350 and bored it .030, installed forged TRW's and had it balanced. The new short block is in the garage on a stand waiting to go in. :D With the new headers and all the goodies from the existing engine installed it should make an estimated 400 hp......then you give it a little 'car crack' (NOS) and you're up there. Will make a nice fwy on ramp car.... :lol:
Anyone with DD2000 or the such wanna give me an estimate? BTW, the pulled engine will be bored/freshened and ready as a spare. :cool:
I'll need cam specs (or actual cam (I have lots of Cam files), head flow or head (I have flow files for lots of heads) and I think I can get something for you. I can do the simulation and post a screenshot for all to see...
Sorry, did not read it well enough. :bb Using your equipment from the old engine, and estimating small tube headers and mufflers, I'll do a run...
Sorry bro, here's the specs off the card. It's a Comp. Cams XE274H. Gross lift=.487 in. & .490 ex. Dur. at .050 in. 230 & ex. 236....lobe seperation is 110 degrees. Installed per specs at 106 intake center line. Crane aluminum true RR's at 1.5.
OK, here is what I got. Sorry, but it does not show 400 HP, but it does have decent torque for a small block with hydraulic cam. Go to a Roller and you can get even more...
Wow, that's really decent hp/tq for a street sb. Me likey. To go with a roller cam would you go exact same specs or a step up? I've also considered 1.6 roller rockers but since I've already got these........Thanks, I've saved the graphs. You da man!! :cheers:
Cam choice would go to how you like to drive. How much time do you spend over 5000 RPM? If you don't rev that high all that much and want to really boost your torque, look what a mild roller can do:
XR264HR cam and your same engine specs (with your regular simulation as comparison):
Here is a cam very much like yours (XR270HR vs your engine):
And here is about a wild as I would go with your setup (XR282HR vs your engine):
If you want more up top, then you could go for a single plane intake, and maybe more agressive heads and you could take advantage of a longer duration roller.
Unfortunately Brad, there is a 2-3 month nationwide backlog on hyd roller lifters. :cry Plus the fact that they are $467 a set. :eek: Add that to the cost of the cam ($258) and shorter pushrods, new dist gear & cam button and you're at almost a grand. Just too much dough for the small gains over the XE274H-10 I already have. BTW, the hyd roller cam I settled on was the XR276HR-10. Too bad, woulda been pretty cool. :cheers: