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QQ: can the starter be removed with the powerglide cooling lines in place? looks like it can be but I don’t want to find out that it can’t with a loose heavy starter over my head.
I also noticed that there’s no bracket on the front of the starter. Maybe there’s a cracked nosepiece causing this problem. I believe Paragon has the correct part.
Removed the starter and brought it to a local rebuilder earlier today. The tech said that the starter looked ok but there’s evidence of low voltage at the solenoid, which could explain why the bendix gear occasionally slammed into the ring gear. The battery is new and the positive cable looks good but the negative cable is oil soaked where it attaches to the engine. Ordered replacement cables and a front bracket from Paragon. Had the starter bendix drive and solenoid replaced too. Will dress the ring gear while I’m waiting for the cables.
Removed the starter and brought it to a local rebuilder earlier today. The tech said that the starter looked ok but there’s evidence of low voltage at the solenoid, which could explain why the bendix gear occasionally slammed into the ring gear. The battery is new and the positive cable looks good but the negative cable is oil soaked where it attaches to the engine. Ordered replacement cables and a front bracket from Paragon. Had the starter bendix drive and solenoid replaced too. Will dress the ring gear while I’m waiting for the cables.
Fingers crossed that this resolves the issue!
I wonder what kind of evidence there was indicating that the voltage was low at the solenoid. Anyway, if that is true, then yes, it could negatively impact starter and bendix performance. I don't know what kind of electrical skills you have, but it is possible with a multimeter to verify low voltage at the solenoid, and if it is low, a few tests can be made to pinpoint the cause of the low voltage. One thing I have learned about starting systems on old vehicles is that often times the electrical contacts inside the key switch have gotten dirty and corroded over time. That will cause a voltage drop at the key switch, leaving less voltage available to operate the solenoid. The solution is to disassemble the key switch and clean the contacts. It makes a world of difference. Your starter will work every time, while all your old Corvette buddies spend half their time in click click mode. There might be a video on YouTube that shows how to disassemble the key switch. If not, just do it yourself and take pictures every step of the way, so you can get it back together again.
ClothSeats, the tech showed me the inside of the solenoid cover. It showed some “missing” material where the high tension lead would connect. Not sure why a voltage issue would cause this but then again I’m not an automotive electrical specialist. He didn’t think the connection from the ignition switch was an issue but it’s not a bad idea to clean it. One less thing to worry about down the road.
It might be a good idea to ask that tech whether or not you should use a shim as well. When I had my starter rebuilt the guy told me to use a shim, going by the way the starter's teeth looked. Also, that missing bracket will help. GM didn't spend the money on them if they were not necessary. Good luck!
It might be a good idea to ask that tech whether or not you should use a shim as well. When I had my starter rebuilt the guy told me to use a shim, going by the way the starter's teeth looked. Also, that missing bracket will help. GM didn't spend the money on them if they were not necessary. Good luck!
Gary
I did ask about a shim and he didn’t think it was necessary. However, I ordered some from paragon, along with the bracket and solenoid cover. Will fit one if the problem persists. Thanks.
Sometimes its not what you think...
The fork the solenoid uses to engage the starter drive was so worn down on my original 61 starter that I had to replace it..the item between parts #2 and #6.
Sometimes its not what you think...
The fork the solenoid uses to engage the starter drive was so worn down on my original 61 starter that I had to replace it..the item between parts #2 and #6.
Good point. I would hope that is one of the things the starter rebuilder evaluates during the rebuild process.
Before you start throwing money at the ring gear, I'd install the starter WITH THE STARTER BRACE; many "mechanics" leave it off, which gives the forward end of the starter (the heaviest part) no support; that's why there's a cast boss with a tapped hole in it in every block to attach that brace - to keep the starter properly aligned with the ring gear.
Before you start throwing money at the ring gear, I'd install the starter WITH THE STARTER BRACE; many "mechanics" leave it off, which gives the forward end of the starter (the heaviest part) no support; that's why there's a cast boss with a tapped hole in it in every block to attach that brace - to keep the starter properly aligned with the ring gear.
yes, my plan is to reinstall the starter with the brace and shim it if necessary first. Replacing the ring gear is something I want to avoid!
Added the front starter brace, solenoid cover and a 1/32 shim. Put some woven heat shielding on the outside of the cover too. Car seems to turn over a bit quicker now. Took it for a long ride in 90 degree heat, shut it down and let it sit for a few minutes. No problem restarting it multiple times.
I also ordered a new set of starter mounting bolts as the existing ones show some wear on the knurled section. Every little bit helps!
I greatly appreciate all the Forums helpful advice with this issue.
Added the front starter brace, solenoid cover and a 1/32 shim. Put some woven heat shielding on the outside of the cover too. Car seems to turn over quicker a bit quicker now. Took it for a long ride in 90 degree heat, shut it down and let it sit for a few minutes. No problem restarting it multiple times.
I also ordered a new set of starter mounting bolts as the existing ones show some wear on the knurled section. Every little bit helps!
I greatly appreciate all the Forums helpful advice with this issue.
Nice going! Did you clean up those gear teeth on the flywheel? If so, how did you do it? With a file?
Nice going! Did you clean up those gear teeth on the flywheel? If so, how did you do it? With a file?
I just squared off the really distorted teeth with a file. A full inspection showed some really ugly ones in about 4 sections on the flex plate. I plan on ordering a replacement from LI Corvette to put on the shelf just in case. The tranny, a Powerglide, has some leaks, so I’ll put the new plate in, if I decide to pull it next winter.
Always check your battery ground the ones that's under the car . That just gave me some problems and there are 2 wires that go to the horn relay , make sure there tight as well . I tell ya I just had the ground problem
05-10-2019, 07:30 AM
