[C2] Hanging wire from capacitor
#1
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Hanging wire from capacitor
I discovered this disconnected, hanging wire from this paper capacitor under the dash next to the steering column of my 65 Roadster. It has a flat plate on the end so I'm assuming it should be grounded somewhere, any ideas? Does anyone know if this is one of those radio noise filter capacitors or what it's for?
Thanks
Thanks
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#4
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Fig 5 on pg 13-3 of the 65 shop manual supplement shows one capacitor with 2 leads for the stop light switch.
It's a device that smooths or clips the voltage spike on the 12Vdc bus when the brakes are applied/released. (noise suppression for the AM section of the radio)
There's another cap (grounded case) shown with 1 lead for the ammeter.
It's a device that smooths or clips the voltage spike on the 12Vdc bus when the brakes are applied/released. (noise suppression for the AM section of the radio)
There's another cap (grounded case) shown with 1 lead for the ammeter.
Last edited by redstar; 06-06-2019 at 01:55 AM.
#5
Team Owner
It is for AM noise supression, I'd take it out and toss it unless you plan on listening to a lot of AM radio while using the brakes. If you have NCRS judging in mind, check the brake light switch (above the brake pedal) and you should have one lead of the capacitor going to each side of the switch.
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jsans (06-07-2019)
#6
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It is for AM noise supression, I'd take it out and toss it unless you plan on listening to a lot of AM radio while using the brakes. If you have NCRS judging in mind, check the brake light switch (above the brake pedal) and you should have one lead of the capacitor going to each side of the switch.
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jsans (06-07-2019)
#7
Le Mans Master
It is for AM noise supression, I'd take it out and toss it unless you plan on listening to a lot of AM radio while using the brakes. If you have NCRS judging in mind, check the brake light switch (above the brake pedal) and you should have one lead of the capacitor going to each side of the switch.
In case you haven't heard, some guys pay serious money for original parts get their cars back to how they were built, for their personal satisfaction, and for NCRS judging.
My advice, just leave it sit, just as it is, or hook it back up. It isn't hurting anything.
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redstar (06-07-2019)
#8
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People still do this with original parts on mid-year vettes? In 2019?
In case you haven't heard, some guys pay serious money for original parts get their cars back to how they were built, for their personal satisfaction, and for NCRS judging.
My advice, just leave it sit, just as it is, or hook it back up. It isn't hurting anything.
In case you haven't heard, some guys pay serious money for original parts get their cars back to how they were built, for their personal satisfaction, and for NCRS judging.
My advice, just leave it sit, just as it is, or hook it back up. It isn't hurting anything.
#9
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It's just incredible how many of these filter capacitors are scattered all over the place. My guess is mostly if not all for the radio. I suppose amplitude modulation (AM) was very prone to electrical interference and this is the best and cheapest solution/band-aid that the engineers could come up with.
Thank you all for the great information!
Thank you all for the great information!
Last edited by jsans; 06-07-2019 at 01:15 AM.
#10
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The only concern one might have is the deterioration of the old paper / aluminum foil capacitors. As they age, the conductor (wire) may come loose from the end(s) of the cap and touch the metal frame under the dash. Some being un fused, then become a fire hazard. I found one for the volt meter had came apart when it shorted out.
If you are not going to remove the 50 year old capacitors for NCRS points, consider some kind of inspection regiment or power removal from the cap conductor at the source. I might be old and over concerned, but why risk it for something that is not needed with todays ignition components.
It is your car and your gain in NCRS points or loss in a rare possible fire. R66 is a driver, so the answer is easy for me.
Just $.02
Ron
If you are not going to remove the 50 year old capacitors for NCRS points, consider some kind of inspection regiment or power removal from the cap conductor at the source. I might be old and over concerned, but why risk it for something that is not needed with todays ignition components.
It is your car and your gain in NCRS points or loss in a rare possible fire. R66 is a driver, so the answer is easy for me.
Just $.02
Ron
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The only concern one might have is the deterioration of the old paper / aluminum foil capacitors. As they age, the conductor (wire) may come loose from the end(s) of the cap and touch the metal frame under the dash. Some being un fused, then become a fire hazard. I found one for the volt meter had came apart when it shorted out.
If you are not going to remove the 50 year old capacitors for NCRS points, consider some kind of inspection regiment or power removal from the cap conductor at the source. I might be old and over concerned, but why risk it for something that is not needed with todays ignition components.
It is your car and your gain in NCRS points or loss in a rare possible fire. R66 is a driver, so the answer is easy for me.
Just $.02
Ron
If you are not going to remove the 50 year old capacitors for NCRS points, consider some kind of inspection regiment or power removal from the cap conductor at the source. I might be old and over concerned, but why risk it for something that is not needed with todays ignition components.
It is your car and your gain in NCRS points or loss in a rare possible fire. R66 is a driver, so the answer is easy for me.
Just $.02
Ron
12 volts will not likely be as dramatic.... but they could also short, which would be....... bad.
I wonder if there is a market for "faux capacitors"... nothing inside!
Last edited by SDVette; 06-08-2019 at 02:28 PM.
#12
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Or what if you could somehow open one the leads inside the capacitor so it's still visually correct but doesn't complete the circuit?
#13
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The lug on the wire is a folded piece of copper.
One might unfold it and cut 1/2 of it off, then apply a piece of non conductive material (i.e., Scotch 33+ electrical jacketing tape) to the remaining portion of the lug to insulate it before sticking it back in the connector. It would also be a PIA to do it successfully as the tape would have to cover the complete copper lug and also fit into the connector.
OR pull the wire out of the capacitor and find a piece of black tubing or plastic string the same diameter as the wire and glue it in the cap, then smash the end and insert it into the connector. This would provide the visual effect, but isolate power to the capacitor.
OR Another option might be to cut the copper lug off and apply Liquid Tape to the end of the wire, then insert the wire end into the connector to appear to be complete.All
OR: Contact BUBBA for advice, he has perfected a lot of stuff on R66.
BUBBA fixes require isolating the power from the capacitor. I prefer to just eliminate the problem by removing the copper connector (or insulate it) and let the wire hang free or wrapped around the capacitor, but for our car is a DRIVER.
SDVette might have a new career started and become a multi millionaire making fake capacitors.
Warning - if you remove the capacitors you will need to change to "resistor" plugs (R45S) and carbon core plug wires to be able to listen to AM with the engine running.
Ron
One might unfold it and cut 1/2 of it off, then apply a piece of non conductive material (i.e., Scotch 33+ electrical jacketing tape) to the remaining portion of the lug to insulate it before sticking it back in the connector. It would also be a PIA to do it successfully as the tape would have to cover the complete copper lug and also fit into the connector.
OR pull the wire out of the capacitor and find a piece of black tubing or plastic string the same diameter as the wire and glue it in the cap, then smash the end and insert it into the connector. This would provide the visual effect, but isolate power to the capacitor.
OR Another option might be to cut the copper lug off and apply Liquid Tape to the end of the wire, then insert the wire end into the connector to appear to be complete.All
OR: Contact BUBBA for advice, he has perfected a lot of stuff on R66.
BUBBA fixes require isolating the power from the capacitor. I prefer to just eliminate the problem by removing the copper connector (or insulate it) and let the wire hang free or wrapped around the capacitor, but for our car is a DRIVER.
SDVette might have a new career started and become a multi millionaire making fake capacitors.
Warning - if you remove the capacitors you will need to change to "resistor" plugs (R45S) and carbon core plug wires to be able to listen to AM with the engine running.
Ron
Last edited by R66; 06-09-2019 at 07:59 AM.
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As an inventor of some ideas you may use, the promoter of your one of a kind rare product needed by the most demanding purest, and overall nice guy, I am sure you will send me 10% of you first $1,000,000,000.00 profit on your new product.
I'll be expecting a check by the end of the month.
Ron
I'll be expecting a check by the end of the month.
Ron
#16
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Its real simple and been done dozens of time...cut the wire flush with the capacitor body and epoxy it back on with no electrical connection - then you have a non-functioning but original looking component...
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As an inventor of some ideas you may use, the promoter of your one of a kind rare product needed by the most demanding purest, and overall nice guy, I am sure you will send me 10% of you first $1,000,000,000.00 profit on your new product.
I'll be expecting a check by the end of the month.
Ron
I'll be expecting a check by the end of the month.
Ron
But will the cagey veteran NCRS judge fall for that?
Last edited by SDVette; 06-09-2019 at 05:05 PM.
#18
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#20
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Ha! What you don't know is that all that all that anti-static stuff didn't last long. My Dad traded in cars 2-3 years old back in the '60s and the radios sounded like that had Dremel tools running inside... I think NCRS Flight ops check would be fine; a PV check ? I have no clue.