[C2] Trailing arm pivot bolt question
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 4,761
Likes: 2,376
From: McKinney Texas
Trailing arm pivot bolt question
This may be a stupid question but I forgot to drill the hole for the cotter pin to use on the slotted shims. My shims are the old two hole version and I have a slotted one for a template. I read the shop manual on trailing arm alignment and it says to remove the pivot bolt and change the shims. The manual says nothing about if the car is on a lift or if you disconnect the half shafts or spring. I read a post where it was recommended to disconnect the spring.
Since I have just the frame and suspension right now, can I leave it on the ground and just remove the bolt or do I need to raise it and disconnect everything? Side note, I do not have the shocks as they are shot and I will be replacing the entire suspension when I go to coilovers. I just need the frame rolling for the painter to put the body back on.
Since I have just the frame and suspension right now, can I leave it on the ground and just remove the bolt or do I need to raise it and disconnect everything? Side note, I do not have the shocks as they are shot and I will be replacing the entire suspension when I go to coilovers. I just need the frame rolling for the painter to put the body back on.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,277
Likes: 2,139
From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
This may be a stupid question but I forgot to drill the hole for the cotter pin to use on the slotted shims. My shims are the old two hole version and I have a slotted one for a template. I read the shop manual on trailing arm alignment and it says to remove the pivot bolt and change the shims. The manual says nothing about if the car is on a lift or if you disconnect the half shafts or spring. I read a post where it was recommended to disconnect the spring.
Since I have just the frame and suspension right now, can I leave it on the ground and just remove the bolt or do I need to raise it and disconnect everything? Side note, I do not have the shocks as they are shot and I will be replacing the entire suspension when I go to coilovers. I just need the frame rolling for the painter to put the body back on.
Since I have just the frame and suspension right now, can I leave it on the ground and just remove the bolt or do I need to raise it and disconnect everything? Side note, I do not have the shocks as they are shot and I will be replacing the entire suspension when I go to coilovers. I just need the frame rolling for the painter to put the body back on.
I stated a few months ago, install some shocks (even if old ones) to limit TA travel and wheel misalignment.
With no weight on the frame and suspension, spring removal and install can be done a few (but unique) ways. One is with a long pry bar, and another using the Roy Sinor method with threaded rod and existing holes in the frame. Let me know if you need info on either one.
Larry
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 4,761
Likes: 2,376
From: McKinney Texas
Thanks Larry. You did tell me to put the shocks on and now I remember why I haven’t yet. Need to get the family to sit on the frame so the holes line up. I may get back with you on those methods. Right now a storm is coming and it is literally almost night outside with a lot of wind.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,277
Likes: 2,139
From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
Here is link to NCRS Restorer article by Roy Sinor. It is about halfway down the thread at Post #6. It is PDF format.
https://www.ncrs.org/forums/showthre...storer+Article
The use of the long pry bar is also from an NCRS article by one of our NCRS and CF past members. I can find and forward if you need it. I have tried this approach and it works, but it is not my favorite method.
Larry
EDIT: Link to long pry bar method. Author is late Bill Lacy: http://stlouisncrs.org/news_files/St...r_Oct_2011.pdf
https://www.ncrs.org/forums/showthre...storer+Article
The use of the long pry bar is also from an NCRS article by one of our NCRS and CF past members. I can find and forward if you need it. I have tried this approach and it works, but it is not my favorite method.
Larry
EDIT: Link to long pry bar method. Author is late Bill Lacy: http://stlouisncrs.org/news_files/St...r_Oct_2011.pdf
Last edited by Powershift; Jun 9, 2019 at 04:27 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,503
Likes: 681
From: New Baltimore Michigan
I had my rear suspension completely out & redid everything, as I was putting it all back in, I decided to order my 4 post lift. To install the lift, I had to roll the car out of the garage, figuring if I had the trailing arms on, the carrier in, spring on I could roll it out... nope!
Until I installed the u joints & radius rods, the tires would rotate until it hit the frame when you lowered the car to the ground & the car wouldnt move anywhere with the tire wedged against the frame. The shocks are the only thing I did not install.
Until I installed the u joints & radius rods, the tires would rotate until it hit the frame when you lowered the car to the ground & the car wouldnt move anywhere with the tire wedged against the frame. The shocks are the only thing I did not install.
