67 Dale

Need some help on the turn signals.
I had them changed out last year and they have been working okay until recently.
In order to get the left signal to stay blinking, I must hold it down. Does not lock in place.
Right turn works as it should. It locks in and release after the turn.
Pulled the steering wheel off. Cancelling cam is okay.
Cannot get the left in engage.
The spring in the handle to still okay. Let it go and it goes back to a nutrel position.
Is there something under the signal that could be broken. I do not see anything that seems to be broken.
Thanks, Dale

FX VETTE

Wrong section OP, you are in the Intro section. Try this one - https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...2-corvettes-4/

Vetteman Jack

Moved to C1 & C2 Corvettes Section.

65vette396

The plastic cancelling cam attached to the wiring has an "ear" or tab on each side that the lever slides over and should hold until the wheel is turned a set distance completing the turn. It then releases the lever to return to it's original position. The ear or bump out in the plastic could have broken off. Find a pic of a new cam and look for the tabs on yours. It sounds like it has broken off or been damaged since you had it rebuilt. Just my experience.

Bluestripe67

This is a common problem with the reproduction TS switch. The right side will probably fail also. A NOS part, if found, should be the fix. I have learned to live with the issue on my '67. Dennis

99Silverbullet

I had to use a repop ts switch during my restoration and it does the same thing. I thought the turn signal lever wasnt in the slot for mounting, but it was.

seb67

You will need to replace the switch or at least parts. I believe someone on the Forum had mentioned a source for switch parts a while back but I don't recall offhand who it was. I would be inclined to replace the whole switch and start with everything in the switch new. If you plan to replace the switch, you might try Shee-Mar. They have fairly extensive product offerings. I've had good luck with their '67 switch. Had one issue with one switch, and they sent me another no charge. Haven't had any switch problems since. That was a number of years ago. https://www.shee-mar.com/

Bluffman

Tried your link for a signal switch, I could not find one.ian

seb67

What year are you trying to find a switch for?

Bluestripe67

If my memory serves me right, after researching this issues 3-4 years ago, Shee-Mar is the maker of the components. Lectric Limited is the distributor. I talked to each, got a replacement, but the problem returned. I did find a NOS, but am not ready to disassemble the column. Dennis

Factoid

Not to get on a rant, but aftermarket parts that fail to perform to spec are really irritating. A headlight switch where I had to install relays as the built in circuit breaker couldn’t handle the normal headlight current load, an ignition switch with vague position detents and now TS switches without proper position locks. That is just shoddy attention to detail.

Rant over. Hope you get it fixed or at least to a point where you can live with it.

seb67

I believe that Shee-Mar manufactures or has manufactured the switch assemblies for OE replacement or restoration. Lectric Limited Inc. is one of a number of resellers of the switches (based on your research), unless they are manufacturing their own. At the time I replaced my switch, the information I had was that most all of the retailers were selling switches manufactured by Shee-Mar. I dealt with Shee-Mar directly simply because the price of the same switch was about $30+ less than purchase through a regular retailer. Upon current checking, the switch at Lectric Limited was retailing for $99 while the switch directly from Shee-Mar was $64 and change. The initial issue was that the hooks that hold the turn signal in the left or right position until canceled were either wearing or breaking, or the posts that the hooks catch were wearing. Someone found the part that has been breaking without having to buy the whole switch. Looking at the Shee-Mar website in their catalog, I found that, I believe for '66, and maybe other years, you can purchase just the part that's broken. If I remember correctly, the '67 switches are assembled with some riveting (and maybe other years), and although you can find the rivets, it becomes a bit of a proposition to take them apart to replace just the broken portion of the assembly. I felt that replacing the broken portion of the switch assembly was a hassle I wasn't interested in dealing with as opposed to spending $64 for a new switch, although if it had been necessary, I would have taken on the task. The other part of the original switch compromised were the switch contacts so I went with everything new. I have not had any issues with the switch since replacement a number of years ago.