carter dual carbs problem
one more time i need your help :
my new engine (CU) is in the car, and now i'm trying to make it work with a carter dual carburators system.
I bought the rebuild kit , the fuel pump is new and i followed the instruction sheet from Techlit CO.
Now,the problem :
when i fire the engine (after the fig 4 tuning), the engine starts and stops 1 second after . to get the engine running, i need to open the rods metering and when i try to accelerate the engine stops.
the engine seems to be "lean".
the "screw idle adjusting" doesn't change anything.
Thanks.
Pascal
Last edited by maguet11020; Aug 3, 2019 at 02:45 PM. Reason: photos
1. The metering rod lift arm - you have to loosen the screw in Fig 4, push completely down on the metering rod "T" hanger to seat the rods in the floor jets then push the arm until it just touches the "T" hanger and tighten the screw.
2. The acclerator pump adjustment - where you lay a flat edge along the cap housing and adjust the screw to make the horizontal plane of that arm level.
3. The vent cap adjustment - which isn't very critical at all, basically, if it opens and closes as the linkage moves - it works.
When you lower the air horn down onto the main body you have to make SURE that the brass barrel of the vacuumeter seats over the spring (e.g. the spring goes into the barrel) and doesn't get caught on the sides of the barrel...
Float adjustment and float centering are super critical on these carbs as the bowls are small, I use a 1/4" and 1/8" drill bit to adjust the float on the secondaries and primaries...with the air horn gasket OFF...
The video indicates to me that you are gas starved...the fuel pump fills up the bowls and the carbs run on start up then the bowls get emptied after a minute or two.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Aug 3, 2019 at 04:27 PM.
I will re-check the set up.
you said :
"The video indicates to me that you are gas starved...the fuel pump fills up the bowls and the carbs run on start up then the bowls get emptied after a minute or two."
the bolws seem to be at a good level but i will check.
when the arm ( fig 4) is up, the engine works correctly at the minimum ( so fuel enough). if i do the setup as needed (arm down) the engine starts and stops 1 second after.
it is like the rod metering is too big or the jet metering too small .
thanks.
Pascal
This web page will give you typical jet sizes (primary and secondary) for various WCFB carbs:
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...62csg1413.html
The jets have faint, stamped numbers on them to identify them - the metering rods also have numbers embossed on a flat section - if your floats are set up correctly something is wrong with these other pieces:
Your carbs look like they've been heavily messed with (no brass vent pipes on front carb and choke plate gone from rear carb) - you need to confirm what you're working with.
Finally without a choke plate, on cold start up, the engine will run lean and you are enriching the mixture by lifting the "T" bar... If you start the car and hold your hand or a rag over the rear carb primary bore and it stays running (simulating a choke plate) you might just have a rough cold start up condition (long shot though WCFBs tend to run rich).
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Aug 4, 2019 at 07:44 AM.
you are right, the carburator is not optimal but i have nothing else.
I'm aware that the lack of chocke make the cold start more difficult.
i will check the jet size.
thanks for the informations.
Pascal
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