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Just a heads up. I dropped 170ish bucks on Superbright H5006 LED low beam units back in March. Work great, no cutting required. Just went to order the high beam units to find that both low and high and discontinued, no substitute offered. If the bulbs that I have ever fail, I'm starting from scratch.
Just a heads up. I dropped 170ish bucks on Superbright H5006 LED low beam units back in March. Work great, no cutting required. Just went to order the high beam units to find that both low and high and discontinued, no substitute offered. If the bulbs that I have ever fail, I'm starting from scratch.
Hi, will these units...the bulbs....work...seems like finally there are a few manufacturers making them..
After hours of research I ended up buying these bulbs from headlightrevolution.com and hella H4 housings from Jegs. The H4 housings were far cheaper from Jegs then any other place at a bout $29 each. They are great quality and I highly recommend. The bulbs fit In the housings nicely and the buckets require no modification to work!
low beam High Beam The distance and spread of the beam is nice. It looks better while driving then in the picture.
Exactly which model of bulbs did you buy? There are several offered at that site. Also, did you use H4 housings for both low and high beams? Thanks.
Originally Posted by NJSWC
After hours of research I ended up buying these bulbs from headlightrevolution.com and hella H4 housings from Jegs. The H4 housings were far cheaper from Jegs then any other place at a bout $29 each. They are great quality and I highly recommend. The bulbs fit In the housings nicely and the buckets require no modification to work!
low beam High Beam The distance and spread of the beam is nice. It looks better while driving then in the picture.
Here is the link. https://headlightrevolution.com/head...ghts-h4-bulbs/
(H1
I just did the Low beam. The H4 bulb does both the low and high beam and I figured that if I wanted it to be brighter I could do the high beam (H1 bulb and housing) later.
Thanks very much. I'll be looking into these. They seem to be the answer to the LED question in C2 Vettes.
Originally Posted by NJSWC
Here is the link. https://headlightrevolution.com/head...ghts-h4-bulbs/
(H1
I just did the Low beam. The H4 bulb does both the low and high beam and I figured that if I wanted it to be brighter I could do the high beam (H1 bulb and housing) later.
Here is the link. https://headlightrevolution.com/head...ghts-h4-bulbs/
(H1
I just did the Low beam. The H4 bulb does both the low and high beam and I figured that if I wanted it to be brighter I could do the high beam (H1 bulb and housing) later.
Thats great info - thanks! I have tried several different things over the years - including aircraft landing lights - but never been really satisfied. This looks good and I’ll give it a try!
I tried module LED lights for my C5.. that plug into the existing housings.
While nice and bright, the dispersion pattern was altered.. shooting light too high and too wide.
This is because housings designed for a filament bulb will de-focus when you use an LED due to the geometry.
The light emits from a single point (or line) with a filament bulb.... LEDs do not.
Unless I'm missing something, I think you guys will have the same issue with these.
I took some photos of the problem... I'll try to find them.
I tried module LED lights for my C5.. that plug into the existing housings.
While nice and bright, the dispersion pattern was altered.. shooting light too high and too wide.
This is because housings designed for a filament bulb will de-focus when you use an LED due to the geometry.
The light emits from a single point (or line) with a filament bulb.... LEDs do not.
Unless I'm missing something, I think you guys will have the same issue with these.
Hi, most of you know I am on the road a lot...Even at night..... I have installed Hella 4 lens & Perfect Fit LED bulbs. No problem with lens fitting chrome ring...only a little bit of space between end of electrical socket & bucket wall.
Here are some some day pictures. I will take car out tonight and adjust lights on a straight road.
I have only replaced the low beam..you can see in pictures halogen hi beam.
Nice Jack - I just ordered the same parts to convert my low beams to the same LED's .... Looking forward to the install!?
Hi Tom, only difficulty can be with spring that holds tension on chrome ring for adjustment. You will figure it out when you take ring off to remove sealed bulb.
I have been meaning to take pictures of my led bulbs/h4 set up. They will need to aimed slightly lower but the brightness is fantastic and the bulb pattern is great too. I’m glad others are experiencing good luck with the combination.
, Light is bright, but I can not properly adjust them due to my buckets do not open enough. When I restored the car 10 years ago, the buckets were installed with regard on to gaps being equal on opening...when I installed my sealed beams I had very little up adjust left.
I will adjust my Y. Stop on my bucket allowing more opening..allowing full up & down adjustments of lens.
So until I am satisfied with down range lighting at speed, I will hold off on judgement.
But definitely, fine adjustments are needed.
Hi, I am in the process of experimenting with LED and H4 Halogen bulbs. I have had Halogen sealed beams for years...but wanted to try LEDs. I have replaced the two low beam sealed beams with Hella 4 lens casings. These will take both LED and H4 Halogen bulbs.
LED bulbs are limited by the size of the heat sink. I have used Super Nova Perfect Fit bulbs with the standard 3 prongs for stock harness plug
I have also ordered H4 Halogen 65 watt replacement 3 prong bulbs to insert in Hella 4 lens.
Adjustment and focus will be the be necessary to really compare all three different systems.
I have found that my buckets do not open enough for down adjustment of the H4 lens. It was enough for the sealed beams although I was at maximum up aim on the adjusters .
MY QUESTION IS : Can I reach the adjusting bolt on the Y bar (top bolt that hits light bucket switch) at end of open sequence...
WITHOUT TAKING OFF MOTOR FROM SHAFT...... can I reach in and turn it....? I have taken the motors out and rebuilt them...but don't want to do more work than needed.
WITHOUT TAKING OFF MOTOR FROM SHAFT...... can I reach in and turn it....? I have taken the motors out and rebuilt them...but don't want to do more work than needed.
You can adjust them without taking anything off. You have to rotate the bucket to the position that lets you get to the bolt the best. Then rotate full up to see how far you went.
Oh, and have you tried the higher wattage H-4's? Plenty out there over 100w.
Last edited by 426 Hemi; Sep 25, 2019 at 10:48 AM.
You can adjust them without taking anything off. You have to rotate the bucket to the position that lets you get to the bolt the best. Then rotate full up to see how far you went.
Oh, and have you tried the higher wattage H-4's? Plenty out there over 100w.
The problem with our buckets is depth..once you you plug in socket to bulb, there is less than 1/4 inch clearance to back of buckets... Most hi wattage LED bulbs have cooling fans attached.
I have not received the H4 Halogens yet. 100 watt bulbs were not recommended unless you have special fixtures.
The problem with our buckets is depth..once you you plug in socket to bulb, there is less than 1/4 inch clearance to back of buckets... Most hi wattage LED bulbs have cooling fans attached.
I have not received the H4 Halogens yet. 100 watt bulbs were not recommended unless you have special fixtures.
We shall see in a few days.
Jack
Good deal Jack, looking forward to your report.
Side note, I was running a 130W halogen H-4 years ago in my motorcycle. Aftermarket housing, think it was a Hella. I kept it on high in the daytime. Never had any problem with the fixture getting too hot. Maybe the design has changed or something. Both beams sure were bright though.
SuperBright LED Headlights
