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Hello
Has anyone recently installed an ELECTRIC power steering kit on a C1 ?
Which kits are recommended ? Possible to install in my garage or would I need a professional to do the job ?
Thanks !
Hello
Has anyone recently installed an ELECTRIC power steering kit on a C1 ?
Which kits are recommended ? Possible to install in my garage or would I need a professional to do the job ?
Thanks !
This is my installation rather than spend the bucks on a kit. Wife loves it.
What happens if the electric servo motor fails? Is there no steering at all, or is there some sort of over ride clutch that allows normal manual steering?
Doug
What happens if the electric servo motor fails? Is there no steering at all, or is there some sort of over ride clutch that allows normal manual steering?
Doug
It feels like standard (non-powered) steering. Just like any other vehicle with hydraulic power steering with the engine turned off. The motor is attached to a very high pitch worm gear. With no power you're just twirling the motor with the "driven" gear.
Last edited by JF in MI; 09-18-2019 at 01:01 PM.
Reason: addition
It feels like standard (non-powered) steering. Just like any other vehicle with hydraulic power steering with the engine turned off. The motor is attached to a very high pitch worm gear. With no power you're just twirling the motor with the "driven" gear.
FWIW, non powered power steering on a normal hydraulic feels a LOT harder than the normal manual steering option, you KNOW when the PS pump isn't working.
I would assume this would be the same? more effort to steer if a failure, but still steerable?
As far as this being do it your self project, you will need access to a mill to put flats on the shaft, and good power saw to make straight cuts, or know someone that can do that part for you, either paid, or free. Having a lathe to clean up the cut tube ends, woudl be a plus
FWIW, non powered power steering on a normal hydraulic feels a LOT harder than the normal manual steering option, you KNOW when the PS pump isn't working.
I would assume this would be the same? more effort to steer if a failure, but still steerable?
As far as this being do it your self project, you will need access to a mill to put flats on the shaft, and good power saw to make straight cuts, or know someone that can do that part for you, either paid, or free. Having a lathe to clean up the cut tube ends, woudl be a plus
Doug
I would agree with your assessment of the 'feel' but still be 'steerable'. As with any system it would depend on your speed, naturally, being a bear when parked but not nearly as bad at say 30mph. C1s are bad enough alone, with radials it's worse, with the fast steering kit it's a horror. As far as I know most, if not all, the kits require flats to be cut on the original column so there is no getting away from that.
We have these guys in Europe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NivxqlpVRMA
They provide drilling guide to avoid using a mill...
They claim in case of failure it just gets back to usual feeling...
Maybe with failure of the electric. Failure of the shaft connection (from not milling the flats) has a slightly more serious consequence.
I had it installed by a good friend who owns a shop. He was very impressed with the ease of installation. If the elect motor fails you still have the same direct mechanical connection as original. The motor sits up under the dash and has a **** that can adjust boost. It has made the car easier to maneuver and more fun. The system is progressive as well so you do not have over boosted steering at highway speeds.
Under hood still remains original and you cannot tell the system is on the car. LOVE IT! and it was worth every penny.
I had it installed by a good friend who owns a shop. He was very impressed with the ease of installation. If the elect motor fails you still have the same direct mechanical connection as original. The motor sits up under the dash and has a **** that can adjust boost. It has made the car easier to maneuver and more fun. The system is progressive as well so you do not have over boosted steering at highway speeds.
Under hood still remains original and you cannot tell the system is on the car. LOVE IT! and it was worth every penny.
I'd be interested to see how they pick up the speed sensing.
For $2750.00, I will eat more Wheaties first. I never noticed any issue with steering, except maybe stopped, on really rough surfaces--that takes a bit more effort. Once moving, no issues at all.
Doug
I had it installed by a good friend who owns a shop. He was very impressed with the ease of installation. If the elect motor fails you still have the same direct mechanical connection as original. The motor sits up under the dash and has a **** that can adjust boost. It has made the car easier to maneuver and more fun. The system is progressive as well so you do not have over boosted steering at highway speeds.
Under hood still remains original and you cannot tell the system is on the car. LOVE IT! and it was worth every penny.
For $2750.00, I will eat more Wheaties first. I never noticed any issue with steering, except maybe stopped, on really rough surfaces--that takes a bit more effort. Once moving, no issues at all.
Doug
You might want to re-think that. Look what happened to Bruce Jenner.
I realize that some (or many) people feel they would get more enjoyment from driving their 53-62 Corvette (remember, I STILL do not do the C-crap) if their car had power steering, power brakes, air cond, ultra hi-tech stereo system, etc, etc, etc.
I'm 76yrs old, and the added features that I've done over the years to the 56 is a small block with more power, home made HD brakes and upgraded the chassis/susp to 60-62 specs.
I feel strongly that if the front suspension and steering is properly rebuilt, a good alignment is done and radial tires (NOT big fat tires on extra wide wheels) inflated to 32-34psi, then the car will drive just fine. On 53-56 models, it would be good to add the cross member-to-frame shims that were installed on late-56/62 cars.
I do not hesitate to admit that when stopped, or moving VERY slowly, the stock steering is somewhat stiff. But again, I'm 76 and I do just fine when driving the 56-----------------actually, it's probably good exercise for this aged body!
Oh ya, and my daily driver (and has been since 1962) is STILL a 51 Chevy 4dr (which is bigger and heavier than the 56), and it has bone stock steering, suspension and drum brakes (which is the same as the 53-62 Corvettes). I will admit that the front tires are 225/75X14 radials, which helps a little when stopped.
For $2750.00, I will eat more Wheaties first. I never noticed any issue with steering, except maybe stopped, on really rough surfaces--that takes a bit more effort. Once moving, no issues at all.
Doug
Sorry if I am momentarily hijacking this thread...
DZAUTO - Above you wrote “...On 53-56 models, it would be good to add the cross member-to-frame shims that were installed on late-56/62 cars...”
I have seen those on the later years. What is the benefit/result of adding those two shim plates? What might be the drawbacks? I am working on the chassis of my 54 now.
I have seen those on the later years. What is the benefit/result of adding those two shim plates? What might be the drawbacks? I am working on the chassis of my 54 now.
The advantage of the shims is an increase in positive caster which improves the return-to-center action of the steering.
The disadvantage is a slight increase in steering effort, most noticeable at low speeds.
My '54 does not have them and steering is very light, almost two-finger easy. My '60 has them and the greater steering effort is obvious.
09-18-2019, 04:27 AM
Power steering C1
