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While vacuum leaks can be a real problem, I think your issue is created by the fans blowing air into the intake. This give a false reading to the MAF causing extra fuel to be introduced. Does it smell like the exhaust is rich when you experience the poor idle?
One option is to seal the air filter on three sides and open up the inner fender liner to allow cooler air into the intake. You could model this first by using cardboard and duct tape temporarily to create a cold air box on the front, back and bottom of the filter and see if you experience the same symptoms.
i think you are correct on this. Some how, there is more air forced in when the hood is closed. I tried a shroud extension under the filter but that didn’t help. I may try the air box idea next weekend. It’s off to the shop for new front springs this afternoon.
Why don't you go down to the hardware store and buy a length of flexible aluminum dryer duct, remove the air filter, and attach the duct to the intake. Position the intake of the duct somewhere that is out of the air flow from the radiator fan and see if that changes the situation. At least that would tell you if the turbulent air from the fan is affecting the MAF.
Charles
Why don't you go down to the hardware store and buy a length of flexible aluminum dryer duct, remove the air filter, and attach the duct to the intake. Position the intake of the duct somewhere that is out of the air flow from the radiator fan and see if that changes the situation. At least that would tell you if the turbulent air from the fan is affecting the MAF.
Charles
that's not a bad idea! think I'll try it when I get it back from the shop for the front spring/lowering work.
OK, update now that it's back from the shop with new QA1 coil overs in the front. They helped lower the front end with the lighter motor and got rid of the annoying driver side spring rattle it had at idle.
The idle with fans on and hood closed is now resolved. I went with the setup that Mike Coletta showed with his (thanks Mike!) and a honeycomb air "straightener" about 3/4" before the MAF sensor. My mechanic was able to see the MAF readings on his GM code reader that read in grams per second rather than lbs/s (mine) which really showed the turbulent airflow over the MAF. Each piece of the puzzle was tried step by step and we saw improvement: eliminating the PCV hookup, putting in the honeycomb and using the Spectra air filter with the inverted cone at the end vs the K&N.
All thumbs up now. Thanks guys!
Now on to the other things that still need to be addressed: paint, the rest of the interior, etc., etc. More fun to be had...
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