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Can anyone post a picture of the proper routing inside the distributor cap of the wire from the coil to the points? I cannot find a place where it will not be rubbed by the vacuum advance or the plate the points mount to. I replaced mine with a new one because the old wire was rubbed through the insulation in 2 places. Can't believe it wasn't shorting but car ran fine. I have searched the forum for pics and looked in the AIM but cannot find anything definitive.
Like this? This is the uni-set points/condenser so just the single wire from coil to points. If you have separate condenser you would have the two wires to the points block. I removed the failed vac can but you can see the vac can slides thru, between the wire. Wire kinda loops around the flat arm of vac. The screw going thru the other wire is the vac can hold down front screw.
Like this? This is the uni-set points/condenser so just the single wire from coil to points. if you have separate condenser you would have the two wires to the points block.
Kind of but if I run the wire there it rubs on the vacuum advance. That is where one of the rubbed places were on my wiring.
No pics, but there should be a 1/2 x 1 inch cut-out section of the baseplate where this wire routes through. Agree it is very close to the ground wire from baseplate to vac can screw....but no interference. This small ground wire should simply be bent into an inverted u-shape between the baseplate and vac can screw. The 12 volt incoming wire to the points should pass right by it without interference. You can pull more of this 12 volt wire into the distributor as needed, since the little metal clip on this wire is inside the distributor to prevent this wire from being pulled thru the grommet and away from the points. It allows you to pull in more wire if you need it.
The 12 volt wire and the condenser wire both wrap counterclockwise inside the distributor to the points attachment point. These two wires run side by side.
Then form, shape, slightly bend the wire so it loops around vac arm so it won't touch. I just pulled this dist. from my 327 that has been running for 20 years and the wire has no rub marks anywhere. Are you leaving enough slack inside the housing? I think wire slides thru the grommet in base of dist. housing.
No pics, but there should be a 1/2 x 1 inch cut-out section of the baseplate where this wire routes through. Agree it is very close to the ground wire from baseplate to vac can screw....but no interference. This small ground wire should simply be bent into an inverted u-shape between the baseplate and vac can screw. The 12 volt incoming wire to the points should pass right by it without interference. You can pull more of this 12 volt wire into the distributor as needed, since the little metal clip on this wire is inside the distributor to prevent this wire from being pulled thru the grommet and away from the points. It allows you to pull in more wire if you need it.
The 12 volt wire and the condenser wire both wrap counterclockwise inside the distributor to the points attachment point. These two wires run side by side.
Larry
As in J. Moore's pic above? I see where there is room for it to run but it cannot move around very much at all without touching. Someone had replaced the wire I removed as it had no metal clip. The new wire does of course.
What numbers are written on your baseplate?? Does your baseplate have the 1/2 x 1 inch slot cut out for this wire and the vac can wire??
My original 1967 baseplate as well as a NOS Delco Remy baseplate have a slot the size of Texas (smile) for these wires to run up through. My baseplate also says PATENT 2769047 with Delco Remy USA in very small font a short distance away.
Larry
Last edited by Powershift; Jan 29, 2020 at 09:05 PM.
I see you are using 'uni-points', point and condenser combo. Back in the day I have seen many fail.
I am a firm believer in separate point and condenser.
Here are a couple of pictures from my distributor reconditioning article I did.
Joe Before disassembly
Joe, I remember reading and seeing your post on your dist rebuild when I was reading up on these old distributors. Yes that dist in my pics had the uniset in it and I can't remember how long ago I installed it but was many years. The Standard Blue Point set I think? My car ran fine with them for all that time but I discovered the failed vac can and decided to pull it since I figured the gear was 180* off which it was. At 8* advance the can was 1/8 from the intake. The curve wasn't right for my 327/300 so I bought one set up correctly and installed it. The new dist has separate points/condenser with gear dimple facing rotor tip and now at 8* advance the can is directly between coil bracket and intake like it should be.
And it looks like your wires are run like mine were on my old dist without touching anything. Steve the OP said he has it now so we're good. Thanks.
It appears that some of the baseplates in the photos do not have the 1/2 x 1 inch cutout that my baseplate has for these wires. They have a smaller slot. This may be one of the issues OP is facing. The baseplate Leif shows is like my original.......but then again both our cars are 67 327/350 HP AC cars built a few months apart.
Mine is out of a 1966 427 and its the original distributor. I believe this will work. I wanted to make sure there wasn't some secret way to run the wire where it was totally protected. My currently has the "uni points" too. No issues with them so far but I have a new spare from NAPA that I may install.
The slot for the wires on my 67 distributor baseplate is about 2-3 times the open area of the baseplate shown in your picture. The NOS Delco-Remy spare baseplate I also have has the same large opening for the wires.
It is interesting that the small grounding wire from your baseplate to the vac can in the above picture is attached under the baseplate. In my baseplate, this wire is attached to the top of the baseplate. Very likely this is why the larger slot was later provided by Delco-Remy.
Here is a picture of the baseplate I am referring to, with the larger cutout slot and the grounding wire soldered on the top side. This is what I have in my 67 car as well as in a Delco-Remy #1962141 NOS piece.
The slot for the wires on my 67 distributor baseplate is about 2-3 times the open area of the baseplate shown in your picture. The NOS Delco-Remy spare baseplate I also have has the same large opening for the wires.
It is interesting that the small grounding wire from your baseplate to the vac can in the above picture is attached under the baseplate. In my baseplate, this wire is attached to the top of the baseplate. Very likely this is why the larger slot was later provided by Delco-Remy.
Larry
That is quite interesting. Mine has the same number stamped on it 2769047 and is soldered on the bottom side.
That is quite interesting. Mine has the same number stamped on it 2769047 and is soldered on the bottom side.
Steven
As are the "service replacement" baseplates (generic......not Delco-Remy) that are being sold by many of the parts houses.
Now, which one would you prefer??
Larry
EDIT: The #2769047 is the patent number on the baseplate. It may be for the hex key adjustable points that mount to the baseplate, or perhaps for something in or part of the distributor itself.
EDIT 2: The DR D-308 or D-308R distributor caps generally have the words PATENT PENDING or PATENT PENDING-R on the top. But around 1969-70 these same caps instead had the words PATENT 2769047. So it appears the patent number is for the hex adjustable points setup and not just the baseplate or any single distributor part. Apparently the baseplates had variations with time.
Last edited by Powershift; Jan 31, 2020 at 05:26 PM.
Points wire
