Proper hardware for engine rebuild?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 964
Likes: 14
From: Camarillo California
Proper hardware for engine rebuild?
Question for you guys restoring your engines to NCRS specs.
I’m preparing to rebuild a ’65 327/300 engine for my ’65 Impala SS (an unmolested survivor) and want to use high quality hardware for the reassembly, yet keep it looking as original as possible. My question is about the proper bolts I should use.
I’m not worried about maintaining originality for the internals; I’ll use ARP studs for the main caps and the quality rod bolts that came with my Crower Sportsman rods.
But what about the head bolts? Are there quality reproductions with “correct” head markings available? And how about intake/exhaust manifold bolts, bolts for the water pump, oil pan, etc. Should I clean and re-use the OE hardware as much as possible, or reassemble the engine using a complete set of new reproduction bolts and paint over them with the rest of the engine when done?
Would an “upgrade” to all ARP hardware be viewed favorably, taking precedence over originality?
Which of these options is considered "standard practice" when rebuilding engines to NCRS standards?
I’m preparing to rebuild a ’65 327/300 engine for my ’65 Impala SS (an unmolested survivor) and want to use high quality hardware for the reassembly, yet keep it looking as original as possible. My question is about the proper bolts I should use.
I’m not worried about maintaining originality for the internals; I’ll use ARP studs for the main caps and the quality rod bolts that came with my Crower Sportsman rods.
But what about the head bolts? Are there quality reproductions with “correct” head markings available? And how about intake/exhaust manifold bolts, bolts for the water pump, oil pan, etc. Should I clean and re-use the OE hardware as much as possible, or reassemble the engine using a complete set of new reproduction bolts and paint over them with the rest of the engine when done?
Would an “upgrade” to all ARP hardware be viewed favorably, taking precedence over originality?
Which of these options is considered "standard practice" when rebuilding engines to NCRS standards?
Last edited by AmericanPie; Feb 12, 2020 at 09:28 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 7,479
Likes: 2,650
From: Really Central IL Illinois
I have reused the original hardware many times on the SBC with no failures. The head bolting is not torqued to yield at the factory and thus can be reused as long as you don't exceed the specified torque. On thing I do that would not be NCRS acceptable is the addition of hardened washers under the head bolts at the bottom of the heads. I have seen the boss cracked and split too many times on these old heads. Follow the Chasis Overhaul Manual for lubrication and torque of all bolting.
Now for the other opinions:
Now for the other opinions:
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 38,369
Likes: 2,085
From: California
I think old original bolts, way better than new bolts, except like your rods and caps where you are using premium hardware. In my younger days when Corvettes were in junk/salvage yards, I used to go on a bolt run!
Last edited by TCracingCA; Feb 12, 2020 at 10:20 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 188
Likes: 30
From: Kernersville NC
Race Director
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 12,712
Likes: 2,271
There's really no reason to buy any new bolts including those for the main caps, and replacing the rods with Crower Sportsman makes for a bulletproof bottom end as long as the crank passes Magnaflux inspection. If you want L-79 top end power and revs while maintaining the 300 HP engines smooth idle and stump pulling low end torque, massage the heads and install a McCaw Special camshaft.
Details and dyno test results are in the "Tale of Two Camshafts" article posted here on the CF in a thread started by SWCDuke... easy search.
Duke
Details and dyno test results are in the "Tale of Two Camshafts" article posted here on the CF in a thread started by SWCDuke... easy search.
Duke
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 54,135
Likes: 9,447
From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
All of your bolts will be painted orange anyhow beside the exhaust manifolds bolts so I would reuse what you got
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 964
Likes: 14
From: Camarillo California
There's really no reason to buy any new bolts including those for the main caps, and replacing the rods with Crower Sportsman makes for a bulletproof bottom end as long as the crank passes Magnaflux inspection. If you want L-79 top end power and revs while maintaining the 300 HP engines smooth idle and stump pulling low end torque, massage the heads and install a McCaw Special camshaft.
Details and dyno test results are in the "Tale of Two Camshafts" article posted here on the CF in a thread started by SWCDuke... easy search.
Duke
Details and dyno test results are in the "Tale of Two Camshafts" article posted here on the CF in a thread started by SWCDuke... easy search.
Duke
I've read your pdf on the McCaw (McCagh?) camshaft and it sounds like an excellent choice especially given that my car has a Powerglide. Who do I contact if I want to find out more info and/or purchase one?
Thanks
Race Director
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 12,712
Likes: 2,271
I prefer that prospective users contact me before ordering the cam. I want to be sure they understand the head flow and compression ratio requirements. It's a very tightly system engineered package. The McCagh Special cam is designed specifically for massaged heads and will not work well with basic Flint-machined heads.
It's best to discuss on the phone to avoid an interminable email chain. I just have a land line and turned off the message machine due to all the junk calls. I'm usually around in the evening, pacific time. I can give you the part number and cam card.
Duke
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Last edited by SWCDuke; Feb 14, 2020 at 08:58 AM.
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