When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Unable to locate rubber insulator that mounts on the stud, in the rear of the clock housing.
No vendor seems to inventory.
Any idea where it might be had?
Unable to locate rubber insulator that mounts on the stud, in the rear of the clock housing.
No vendor seems to inventory.
Any idea where it might be had?
As always,
Thank you
Where do you see the reference that you need a rubber isolator? Never heard of such a thing.
I think he is talking about the grommet at the positive lug on the clock. The rubber grommet prevents the positive terminal from grounding out on the case which is grounded by the other lug. I would search the electrical supply sites for a grommet of the correct size - measure the ID of the hole in the case and the OD of the stud for the lug.
OP - am I correct in what you are needing?
John is more than likely correct in that it is not needed, but just guessing what you are asking for.
This is a restored C2 clock on eBay right now being sold by a popular vendor:
So - I also don't know what the OP is talking about..
If he insulates the terminal shown withOUT the grommet I suspect his clock won't work.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Feb 18, 2020 at 08:11 AM.
OP might be able to fab one from a couple of nylon washers or another insulating material such as a water facet washer. Use one nylon washer to fit the back housing hole and another under that with a larger OD. Probably have to massage the washer ID and/or OD to get a good fit.
Unable to locate rubber insulator that mounts on the stud, in the rear of the clock housing.
No vendor seems to inventory.
Any idea where it might be had?
As always,
Thank you
The grommet for the power stud was made on the original borg movement. it's not something that is available but you may be able for find something that will work. If I had to take a stab at something that will work it would be the speedo mounting grommet. GM didn't use any insulating grommet on the two mounting studs for the clock, the clip was a tension clip that held the clock in place and didn't require a grommet.
I just took an original movement apart and the ID of the hole is 9/32. The lip(o.d.) on the speedo/tach grommet is is the same so you'd loose the insulating lip if you tried this part.
So.... If the insulating grommet for the power stud is what you need, I've got a plenty of used here that'll work just fine. You can email me at Service@Willcoxcorvette.com I'll fix you up with one.
To replace, you'll have to lift the grounding tab and rotate it out of the way, remove the old grommet and then install one.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Feb 18, 2020 at 10:53 AM.
I forgot about my friend BUBBA's methods that I have used on occasion. (The purists are going to hate me now). Non-NCRS repair.
Find a roll of insulating electrical tape and remove the cover. Cut a small piece of tape and put it over the stud.
Then find a piece of small vacuum hose or similar rubber hose about the same O.D. of the I.D of the hole in the case. Cut a piece of the hose 1/16" to 1/8" long and put it over the stud. The hose should extend past the back of the case, but will squeeze down when you install the stud.
Reassemble the case to the clock.
Put a rubber washer or another piece of electrical tape on the stud to prevent the lug from contacting the case.
Reinstall the lug and test your work prior to reinstalling the clock.
WILCOX generous offer is best, but BUBBA repair will work.
I've used layers of shrinkable tubing in the same way....
No matter what Bubba or OEM solution is performed I think I'd add an inline fuse to the clock power - prob a 5 amp. IIRC these devices were unfused in the early midyears....
I've used layers of shrinkable tubing in the same way....
No matter what Bubba or OEM solution is performed I think I'd add an inline fuse to the clock power - prob a 5 amp. IIRC these devices were unfused in the early midyears....
I believe 63/64 clocks were fused by the same orange wire circuit that fuses the stop lights, glove box light, and courtesy lights. I know it is on 65/66/67. Regardless, if I had any question, I would also add a fuse to the clock wire just in case. Definitely a smaller amperage fuse than the stop light fuse.
Still a little confusing. There is no rubber insulator under the nut. The nut tightens directly against the metal lug that makes a 90 degree turn and then up to the connector.
The insulator is located on the mounting stud to prevent it from contacting the clock housing.
Located under the connecting prong, itself located under the nut.
Refer to Frankie's #5 posting.
You are able to see the black Insulator.
I know this post is old, but I found a solution to this insulator. Go to Harbor Freight and buy these. Pick the one that fits and trim one of thee flanges off. I looked everywhere the insulator and could not find it.
Rubber Clock Insulator
