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New windshield problem

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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 06:55 PM
  #1  
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Default New windshield problem

Just had my '66 coupe stripped, chrome removed, minor fiberglass stress cracks fixed, painted, and windshield replaced. Looks very good, and windshield installation with trim looks great. First rain today, and both driver and passenger floor wells filled up with water like the damn thing did not even have a windshield.
Think that I have heard that this is a common problem with windshield replacement. New glass and new gaskets installed, but I am disappointed. Anyone have words of wisdom on this problem. Thanks
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 07:12 PM
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I know you don't want to hear this but is is probably not the windshield. If you are lucky the drain holes at the base of the bird cage, behind the kick panel A pillar are plugged. So, check that first.
It could also be a rusted bird cage. The caps on top of the A pillar are known to rust thru. To check it remove the glove box and have someone pour water at the corner of the windshield and observe.
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 07:22 PM
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It might not be that horrific. It’s tough to get the corners sealed. And that’s usually where they leak.
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 07:31 PM
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Spending that much money and getting floor wells that have waves when you drive, does not make one a happy camper!
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 08:10 PM
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My 63 leaks a bit on the passenger side window corner even after the restoration work and paint job...
I'll take the molding off someday and track it down; in the meantime I just put blue painters tape over that area if I think I'll be in rain...
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 08:28 PM
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Before you jump to conclusions on where the problem may be why not check with the shop and ask them if they sealed the cavity and sealed the rubber to the glass after installation.

Post a picture of the lower corners that Frank mentioned in his post. that rubber needs to lay flat against the glass and sealed.
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 10:10 PM
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William,
You have received good advise already so instead of adding my two cents worth I'll tell you a true story. In 2016 I drove my 1966 Corvette coupe from Placitas, NM to Bowling Green, KY for Corvette Homecoming. I ordered this Corvette for my 23rd b'day, still have it.
I displayed it at the car show at the host hotel and while there the Corvette plant manager stopped by and ask about the license plate (ONE OWNER). I mentioned we had toured his plant earlier that day and noticed at the end of assembly a Corvette undergoing a BIG water bath. Our tour guide explained that all Corvettes had to pass the water bath with no leaks. Any leaks that happened were fixed before shipment.
I commented that my 1966 leaked like a sieve and "just when did all Corvettes stop leaking?" He answered with a smile, in 1967!
So if your Corvette leaks you are in good company....and plenty of it! Good luck with your leaks! Bill
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 11:46 AM
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For us... when we install a mid year windshield in the shop, we apply auto bedding compound to the lip on the body after we install.

You do this by rolling the weatherstrip upward a bit and forcing the nozzle under the weatherstrip so the compound is forced between the lip and the rubber seal properly.

After the compound is placed around the outer edge the same thing is done all the way around between the glass and the windshield seal basically using the same technique, force the rubber outward and pump the compound in place.

Bedding compound never dries (why we call it "no dry" here) and is very messy but it seals and works. If you try to install this now you'll need to remove the windshield moldings first, then tape off everywhere around the body and the glass.... this makes clean up way easier. Also keep in mind that the rubber and the glass should seat over time.

Bedding compound is made by 3M too so it's not hard to find. I think the part number is 8509. This should solve your leak issue too.

IMHO,

Willcox

Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Feb 20, 2020 at 11:51 AM.
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 01:11 PM
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When you have spent the money that I have, and the floor wells fill up with water, tape is not an option. Taking it back to the shop to have it corrected.

Last edited by William Buckley; Feb 20, 2020 at 01:28 PM. Reason: not correct
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by William Buckley
When you have spent the money that I have, and the floor wells fill up with water, tape is not an option. Taking it back to the shop to have it corrected.
William,

I didn't mean tape was used, the tape is to keep the bedding compound from getting on the glass and paint.....it's very hard to get off.

I can only suspect that the shop thought the weatherstrip would "seat" over time.... but to mitigating factors happen these days... One would be the windshield frames usually get painted when the cars are painted which makes them slick and the second is the fact that we don't take our cars out in the sunlight all the time (like when they were new) which will severely slow the seating process of the seal, this is one of the main reasons we use the bedding compound.

You might copy my post and take it with you when you take the car back... it should work and solve your issue.

IMHO,

Willcox

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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 02:59 PM
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The advice on the drain holes is definitely the first place to look. The water drains from the cowl to the drain hole that is forward of the door. If the hole is plugged, the water builds up and the drain point is through the vent. You can access the hole from underneath. I used a coat hanger wire.
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 04:21 PM
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Personally I'm lost on this drain hole thing.... I've rebuilt 2 65's body off's in the last four years and I don't remember any drain hole.

Below the upper surround panel bonding is a large hole in the windshield frame that is about 2" by 3" in diameter.... on both cars this had to be repaired.... The only way for water to get there is to pass under the bonding strip for the surround panel which would have to pass beyond the weatherstrip frame work. I've got some pictures here of the last two cars of which we had to repair both sides in doing the restorations but please correct me or show me where there is a drain hole.

Regards,

Ernie

Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Feb 21, 2020 at 04:29 PM.
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 04:29 PM
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William,

I had my Windshield removed and reinstalled last fall. The reason for having it done was because the windshield trim was loose in the lower left (Driver's corner). Turns out, the windshield had been replace with the original clips....Not good! So I spent the money (Alot) to have the glass removed, clips replaced, coated, new rubber seal, and trim reinstalled..... The installer had to order a rubber seal while the glass was out, I scanned the bird cage through the many square holes in the windshield frame. That gave me the opportunity to spray a frame rust coating all along the birdcage and down the BC pillars......It was pretty messy....My installer called the coating that he applied to the windshield opening etching. That might not be correct...It was a black tacky brushed on coating. I have not even been in the rain since the re-install. I can only hope it does not leak.....
Also, setting the glass (Patting with open hands) was important do do prior to clipping the trim into place...

Wood's Design (Larry) and Dave Tracy's Advice:

The advice on the drain holes is definitely the first place to look. The water drains from the cowl to the drain hole that is forward of the door. If the hole is plugged, the water builds up and the drain point is through the vent. You can access the hole from underneath. I used a coat hanger wire.

Hope you can get it taken care of..........I'll let you know if I get wet in the rain when I get my 65 running...........


Last edited by dcamick; Feb 21, 2020 at 04:41 PM.
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
Personally I'm lost on this drain hole thing.... I've rebuilt 2 65's body off's in the last four years and I don't remember any drain hole.

Below the upper surround panel bonding is a large hole in the windshield frame that is about 2" by 3" in diameter.... and the only way for water to get there is to pass under this bonding strip, which would have to pass beyond the weatherstrip frame work. I've got some pictures here of the last two cars of which we had to repair both sides in doing the restorations but please correct me or show me where there is a drain hole.

Regards,

Ernie

The ones below the crotch coolers. Picture at post #56 : https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...vent-it-3.html
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 426 Hemi
The ones below the crotch coolers. Picture at post #56 : https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...vent-it-3.html
But the only way for water to get there is to get past the seal and the surround bonding strip. Then it has to enter the oval hole (under where the surround panel bonds)

If the water is stopped at the windshield frame then it won't reach that point. I have extensive pictures here... I'll have to review them this weekend.

IMHO,

Ernie
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
But the only way for water to get there is to get past the seal and the surround bonding strip. Then it has to enter the oval hole (under where the surround panel bonds)

If the water is stopped at the windshield frame then it won't reach that point. I have extensive pictures here... I'll have to review them this weekend.

IMHO,

Ernie
I think water that enters through the cowl vent grills ends up going out those holes. If the hole plugs, the water rises to the bottom of the kick panel vents and soaks the carpet. Easy to mistake for a windshield seal leak. Same thing Dave was pointing out in post #11.

Last edited by 426 Hemi; Feb 21, 2020 at 08:04 PM. Reason: Having children is like being pecked to death by a duck.
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 10:54 PM
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I know the GM guy was probably messing with you, but back when I had my '67 (from 1968 through about 1970) it did NOT leak. (my previous car, a '59, required life preservers on hand just in case!)

I have not dealt with the weatherstrip etc on my '64 project but that stage is approaching. Because of what I have read in various threads here, I used a coat hanger and an air nozzle to go after those drain passages, first from the top, then from the bottom. I was amazed at how many times I had to repeat the process before it stopped disgorging nuts, leaves, grass, twigs and general crud. You might want to wear a dust mask when you start into it. IIRC the forum consensus in those threads was the water does weep in around the air vents as 426 Hemi says.



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