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[C2] C2 overall weight

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Old May 25, 2020 | 08:55 PM
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Default C2 overall weight

A friend has 4 wheel scales to determine the overall weight of a car and the weight at each wheel (pro-touring or racing). My 63 coupe - resto-mod with RS Chassis, LS3 (aluminium block), tons of dynamat, AC, 5 speaker stereo & 325 tires in the rear came in at 3300 lbs. I'm curious if anyone else has weighed their stock c2 (big block or small block). I have seen the curb weight specs for 63's anywhere between 3000 and 3300 that's fine I'm more interested in actual results.

Thanks


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Old May 25, 2020 | 09:27 PM
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I haven't, but its on my list of things to do. Curious to see what others end up with though. For such a small, fiberglass car, 3300 seems awfully heavy, but I know that's within the listed ballpark for these cars.
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Old May 25, 2020 | 09:36 PM
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In Oct 1966 I shipped my 66 convertible to Hawaii. Matsun Lines weighed it at 3006 pounds. Convertible top only. Fuel tank almost dry.
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Old May 25, 2020 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30
I haven't, but its on my list of things to do. Curious to see what others end up with though. For such a small, fiberglass car, 3300 seems awfully heavy, but I know that's within the listed ballpark for these cars.
Yeah, stock, these cars have a damn lot of cast iron in them.
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Old May 25, 2020 | 11:14 PM
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In 1965 I weighed my stock '63 convertible on the scales at J.I. Case in Bettendorf, Iowa. Only the soft top and about a half tank of fuel on board. The scale weight was 3,140 pounds.

Stay safe all,

Steve Stone (original owner, '63 triple black convertible, 583,0000 miles)
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Old May 26, 2020 | 12:11 AM
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My vintage racer (see avatar) comes in at 1250 lbs on the front wheels and 1150 on the rear, or 2400 lbs total. I got rid of or never installed a lot of the cast iron which makes the stock Sting Rays so heavy.

I used aluminum wherever I could. The door hinges, for example, are aluminum and weigh 16 lbs less than the steel originals. The aluminum cylinder case weights 85 lbs. The drive shaft and the half shafts are aluminum also.

It's possible to make a Sting Ray weigh considerably less. You just have to work at it.
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Old May 26, 2020 | 03:15 AM
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Plastic does not necessarily have to be light. My yacht ( 14 meters long ) is custom made in plastic. My friend has the same yacht made in sheet steel and when comparing the weight of the two yachts - only the hulls - it turned out that the plastic ship is 20% heavier.
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Old May 26, 2020 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by After38Years
In Oct 1966 I shipped my 66 convertible to Hawaii. Matsun Lines weighed it at 3006 pounds. Convertible top only. Fuel tank almost dry.

Thanks, coincides with the reported curb weight!
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Old May 26, 2020 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jim lockwood
My vintage racer (see avatar) comes in at 1250 lbs on the front wheels and 1150 on the rear, or 2400 lbs total. I got rid of or never installed a lot of the cast iron which makes the stock Sting Rays so heavy.

I used aluminum wherever I could. The door hinges, for example, are aluminum and weigh 16 lbs less than the steel originals. The aluminum cylinder case weights 85 lbs. The drive shaft and the half shafts are aluminum also.

It's possible to make a Sting Ray weigh considerably less. You just have to work at it.
Whatcha running for a driveshaft?
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Old May 26, 2020 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 69427
Whatcha running for a driveshaft?
I was just about to ask the same question....given its size, the stocker isn't all the heavy.
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Old May 26, 2020 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30
I was just about to ask the same question....given its size, the stocker isn't all the heavy.
I agree. IIRC, my stock driveshaft weighs 10# (without the yoke). The 2" diameter fortunately gives the shaft a darn small moment of inertia. I'm trying to find an aluminum driveshaft that is obviously lighter than my steel shaft, and also trying to get comfortable with any MoI differences/increases due to the (expected) increase in diameter and wall thickness. Just trying to figure out where the curves cross, and staying away from where the increased diameter overcomes the reduction in weight.

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Old May 26, 2020 | 10:19 PM
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Normally when you check corner weights there is ballast added to simulate the driver. Maybe that’s where your extra weight came from.

Last edited by Saddletan; May 26, 2020 at 10:20 PM.
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Old May 26, 2020 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 69427
I agree. IIRC, my stock driveshaft weighs 10# (without the yoke). The 2" diameter fortunately gives the shaft a darn small moment of inertia. I'm trying to find an aluminum driveshaft that is obviously lighter than my steel shaft, and also trying to get comfortable with any MoI differences/increases due to the (expected) increase in diameter and wall thickness. Just trying to figure out where the curves cross, and staying away from where the increased diameter overcomes the reduction in weight.
I looked (briefly) only because I needed a new driveshaft anyway. I couldnt find anything smaller than 3” in aluminum, and I think that came in at 8 lbs without the yoke. For the price, 2lbs certainly wasnt worth it on my street car....and I was concerned about tunnel clearance at that point.
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Old May 26, 2020 | 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 69427
Whatcha running for a driveshaft?
3" diameter aluminum piece made for me by Inland Empire Driveline Service. 1310 U-joints.
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Old May 26, 2020 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 69427
I agree. IIRC, my stock driveshaft weighs 10# (without the yoke). The 2" diameter fortunately gives the shaft a darn small moment of inertia. I'm trying to find an aluminum driveshaft that is obviously lighter than my steel shaft, and also trying to get comfortable with any MoI differences/increases due to the (expected) increase in diameter and wall thickness. Just trying to figure out where the curves cross, and staying away from where the increased diameter overcomes the reduction in weight.
It's been a long time since I weighed my aluminum driveshaft so my memory is a little fuzzy. That said, I believe it's about 4lbs bare.
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Old May 27, 2020 | 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by jim lockwood
3" diameter aluminum piece made for me by Inland Empire Driveline Service. 1310 U-joints.
Just curious, how was your tunnel clearance?
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Old May 27, 2020 | 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30
Just curious, how was your tunnel clearance?
A fair question. It's not an issue for me because the tunnel is not stock. IOW, I don't know what clearance issues might exist if you tried to use a 3" driveshaft in a stock Sting Ray.
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Old May 27, 2020 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by jim lockwood
A fair question. It's not an issue for me because the tunnel is not stock. IOW, I don't know what clearance issues might exist if you tried to use a 3" driveshaft in a stock Sting Ray.
I kind of assumed your tunnel probably wasnt stock. Doing some rough measurements, a 3" DS would be extremely tight in the factory tunnel, even with the heat shielding removed.
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Old May 27, 2020 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30
I kind of assumed your tunnel probably wasnt stock. Doing some rough measurements, a 3" DS would be extremely tight in the factory tunnel, even with the heat shielding removed.
There is enough room in the tunnel of my car that I could and did add a driveshaft loop just behind the transmission-end U-joint.
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Old May 27, 2020 | 10:51 AM
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My 67 full race scca corvette weighted 2422 totally stripped interior with 1 piece front end and 1 piece flip rear had to run ASR in scca amazing car kept up with some big money cars
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