So from reading on this site, looks like my carb is a service replacement built in 76... Is that right, 1976? and is it worth sending it out to be restored seeing it's a service replacement? I've re-gasket-ed it several times and needs another servicing. I can do that myself but was wanting it to look nicer.

 

3310?? That's a 3367 carb shown for a '66 Corvette 327/300 & 327/350 hp. 585 cfm.
A 3310 carb is for a '65 Chevelle 396/425 hp. 750 cfm.
The date code 2926 is the 292nd day in the year 1976.

 

Had a very similar situation with the 3810 on my 67. I ended up buying a brand new 3810 and was extremely happy with it. It was not inexpensive but the car runs better than it has in over 30 years of ownership. Put the original dated carb in a box for now.
FWIW I had a service dated 3367 in a bit nicer condition for sale here in the parts section for a long time before it sold. It did not generate a lot of interest.

 

The '67 3810 for the 327/300 & 327/350 is a very valuable carb. I rebuilt and sold one to a CF member a couple of months ago for over $700. It was totally original and dated "732" (2nd week of March, 1967. The O.P. is much better off with the 3367 for a '66 and an original date coded one can be bought for $350 on ebay.

 

Guess I can't even type the numbers right.

It is a 3367, but from what I read on here, dates codes pre 70 (maybe 73) were 3 digits, 4 digits were post that time. So while it is a 3367, it's not dated for my car and is probably a service replacement.

 

ken
Respectfully disagree. If he can find a correctly dated 3367 for $350 and then pays to have a full restoration he's beyond the price of a brand new one. So unless he's going judging what's the gain?
My new 3810 ran perfectly right out of the box. Some of these old carbs are just plum wore out beyond a gasket set rebuild. I regret not doing it ten years ago.

 

John, I understand where you're coming from. I read that alot on here. I guess because I've been doing my own work on Corvettes for 40 years, including rebuilding carbs, I don't factor in someone else charging (or over charging) to do something that's not all that difficult. And they they'll cadmium plate the carb, which is never really seen and isn't correct anyway for earlier years. I'm also an NCRS member and a stock matching numbers kind of guy. I grew up with my late brother's '66 big block which he bought new and Top Flighted first time out (97.4). It was a daily driver until the 70's, now has 92k miles, and I now own it.

I paid $150 for this original '67 dated Holley 3810, cleaned it, put in a $40 rebuild kit with new float springs, and sold it for over $700. Fortunately, it had sat for decades in dry storage and was in very good condition. The buyer got the exact carb he's been looking for, at a fair price that's less than a repro carb, and it increases the value of the original car. Even if he's not going to get judged, the next potential buyer might be. IF a classic car is very original, then I believe in making it complete with correctly dated parts. As long as the numbers on the air horn and metering block are correct, the base plate can be resurfaced or replaced, as well as all of the internal parts and bowls. But if it's a modified or non-matching numbers car, then I totally agree with what you're saying.


1967 dated Holley 3810

 

Holley had an 1850C Carb that looked close so I ordered one. If mine was dated right I was going to send it out, but since it isn't and my car isn't going to be judged, I am just going to leave it on the original engine and store in on the shelves.

 

I see that carb has a manual choke. Are you going to rig up a cable for it?

 

No. The choke on my other carb has never been hooked up. It's 95* here today and it rarely gets cold enough to have a choke down here.