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[C2] Auto City Classics Power Window kit

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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 06:56 PM
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Default Auto City Classics Power Window kit

Guys, I installed the PW kit about a year ago. I have had nothing but problems since. The windows will work for a while then jam down. It appears that it goes past the last gear tooth and jams. In my opinion the window motor is too fast and that is causing the problem. ACC replaced the first regulator with a new one and it did the same thing.
Since then I have added a 69 Camaro bottom bumper stops as recommended by many. I still have the same problem. I have had both sides jam down at least 4 times. This is getting very old.
Has anyone had problems like this? Does anyone know of a fix?
Input is appreciated.
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 08:00 PM
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Is your power window kit made for a C2 Corvette or is it a universal power window kit?
Did you purchase your kit at a Corvette parts store?
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by CorvetteMikeB
Is your power window kit made for a C2 Corvette or is it a universal power window kit?
Did you purchase your kit at a Corvette parts store?
Yes, it is a kit made for a C2. I purchased it on line from ACC. The first time it got stuck they told me to send it back as it shouldn't be reused. The new one had the same problem. The passenger side was working well then started doing the same thing after about a year.
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 09:39 PM
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Well, I've had the same problem with them jamming down, but don't have a fix. I thought I installed them wrong. Just another example of an aftermarket part wasting people's time. I was planning on ordering from them for my next car, so thanks for mentioning the problem. I thought I installed them wrong.

Last edited by Ken Sungela; Jun 29, 2020 at 09:39 PM.
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Ken Sungela
Well, I've had the same problem with them jamming down, but don't have a fix. I thought I installed them wrong. Just another example of an aftermarket part wasting people's time. I was planning on ordering from them for my next car, so thanks for mentioning the problem. I thought I installed them wrong.
I just located a set of original PW regulators. I am going to cut my losses and dump the ACC regulators. I will definitely call them and make them aware of the problem.
Ken, you should also call so they at least know it is a common problem.

Last edited by woodsdesign; Jun 29, 2020 at 09:43 PM.
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 09:52 PM
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Is ACC regulators the only brand available for C2 Corvettes?
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 10:07 PM
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Nu-Relics is another alternative.
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 11:23 PM
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The I added power windows to my 67 ragtop I went with used OEM parts, since they are a known (reliable) quantity. I got them from David Sokolowski in L.A., had them rebuild and they've worked famously for around ten years. This will be an advantage in future years if I or a mechanic needs to troubleshoot them.
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Old Jun 30, 2020 | 05:31 AM
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Larry, I have fixed that problem, with success, two ways. Both are a pain. Remove the regulator, and build a "weld bump" at the last tooth. You have to make it big enough so that it doesn't jam or bind on a full force down. The other way that I have fixed it, is to install a PWM (pulse width modulator) in each door, to control the speed. I just leave them in the door, held in place with some velcro. Make sure that they are reversible, and about 20 or 30 amps. Auto City is already are aware of the problem, and changed their motors about 3 years ago. (you could also change the motors.)
https://smile.amazon.com/ICQUANZX-Co...%2C190&sr=8-13

Last edited by mike coletta; Jun 30, 2020 at 06:16 AM.
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Old Jun 30, 2020 | 07:04 AM
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Mike, do you think that PWM would work on the Detroit speed headlight motors that slam up and down?
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Old Jun 30, 2020 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Ken Sungela
Mike, do you think that PWM would work on the Detroit speed headlight motors that slam up and down?
I don't think so. I'm not sure how you would wire it, as it doesn't use an up/down switch to operate, and stops via an amp or load sensing circuit.

Last edited by mike coletta; Jun 30, 2020 at 01:05 PM.
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Old Jun 30, 2020 | 12:26 PM
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Mike - There's a similar thread on the Tri-Five Forum with the replacement motors way too fast...or as the OP states...'like break the window fast'. So far the only solution we had come up with was to duplicate a setup similar to the heater blower motor resistor that cuts power so that the one-speed motor runs on three different speeds. Someone suggested we try using a ballast resistor to do just that, reduce the juice to the PW motors. As far as I know, no one has actually tried that configuration. If that somewhat simple solution doesn't do the trick, and that PWM is the way to go, would it be installed in the door, then rotate the potentiometer **** to a suitable motor speed and then left alone? And, I see it has a switch but if it was hooked up in line, you would still be able to use the factory PW switches, correct?
Thanks,
Mike T - Prescott AZ
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Old Jun 30, 2020 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Vet65te
Mike - There's a similar thread on the Tri-Five Forum with the replacement motors way too fast...or as the OP states...'like break the window fast'. So far the only solution we had come up with was to duplicate a setup similar to the heater blower motor resistor that cuts power so that the one-speed motor runs on three different speeds. Someone suggested we try using a ballast resistor to do just that, reduce the juice to the PW motors. As far as I know, no one has actually tried that configuration. If that somewhat simple solution doesn't do the trick, and that PWM is the way to go, would it be installed in the door, then rotate the potentiometer **** to a suitable motor speed and then left alone? And, I see it has a switch but if it was hooked up in line, you would still be able to use the factory PW switches, correct?
Thanks,
Mike T - Prescott AZ
Mike, If you reduce the voltage on a DC motor, it loses all of it's power.A resistor won't work. That's why you need to use a PWM. It does just what it implies, it "pulses" full voltage, keeping full torque. Yes, you would need to remove the PWM switch, and wire it to the window switch. Leave the pot to adjust the speed. Make sure that you wire it correctly, because one "bad" connection will fry these pretty quick. You'll have to run a power wire "into" the door, but the ground, and motor wires are already there. Frankly, today I would just buy the new/slower motors. Back when I used the PWM's I couldn't find a slower motor that was cheap enough to make it work, so I used the PWM's.

Last edited by mike coletta; Jul 1, 2020 at 05:45 AM.
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Old Jun 30, 2020 | 01:29 PM
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With my 15% discount at Corvette central I can get a pair of regs. and motors(old style) for ~$300. That might be the way to go.

Last edited by Ken Sungela; Jun 30, 2020 at 01:30 PM.
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Old Jun 30, 2020 | 05:32 PM
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Glad I found this thread, I thought I was the only one with this problem. When I got my car the power window motors were not only shot but they had been taken out of the car and piled neatly in a box "outside" for a few years. So when I got the box, I chucked the motors, which I should never had done, but I was made aware that motors could be had without issue. I installed the motors and I immediately was transported to medieval times where the guillotine was now being relived in my doors
I was always afraid that one day the window would pop the top of the coupe door off, or I would find the mechanism some where on the road below. This was my first C2 with power windows, so I thought we were all living with this mobile guillotine so said nothing
So, now I know this, I will look for replacement motors but of course like everyone else here, I really have no interest in replacing one guillotine with another. I would like to keep my original arms so do we have a "for sure" non decapitator available?

Last edited by TC233; Jun 30, 2020 at 05:35 PM.
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Old Jun 30, 2020 | 05:52 PM
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I called ACC today and they denied they had a problem. He said they were exactly the same as the originals but maybe a little thinner. ( so not exactly ). He said to feather the switch. I told him that was fine as long as I remember or someone else operates the switch. Then he said maybe originals were the way to go.
What about my $500 dollars? Sorry they are out of warranty.
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Old Jun 30, 2020 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by LouieM
The I added power windows to my 67 ragtop I went with used OEM parts, since they are a known (reliable) quantity. I got them from David Sokolowski in L.A., had them rebuild and they've worked famously for around ten years. This will be an advantage in future years if I or a mechanic needs to troubleshoot them.
I also purchased mine from David Sokolowski . Where did you get them rebuilt?
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Old Jun 30, 2020 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mike coletta
Mike, If you reduce the voltage on a DC motor, it loses all of it's power. I resistor won't work. That's why you need to use a PWM. It does just what it implies, it "pulses" full voltage, keeping full torque. Yes, you would need to remove the PWM switch, and wire it to the window switch. Leave the pot to adjust the speed. Make sure that you wire it correctly, because one "bad" connection will fry these pretty quick. You'll have to run a power wire "into" the door, but the ground, and motor wires are already there. Frankly, today I would just buy the new/slower motors. Back when I used the PWM's I couldn't find a slower motor that was cheap enough to make it work, so I used the PWM's.
Mike - thanks for the clarification and since I'll be posting your reply on the Tri-Five Forum...'thanks' from the rest of the guys too. I bought an AutoGlass PW setup for my 61 back about 3 or so years ago and requested the old style PW motors which they still had. No issues with the 61. As for the 56 Nomad PW kit I bought nearly 10 years ago and still haven't gotten around to installing it, I'm guessing they have the old style GM version motors but if not, I'll be replacing them with the old style motors.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
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Old Jun 30, 2020 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by woodsdesign
I called ACC today and they denied they had a problem. He said they were exactly the same as the originals but maybe a little thinner. ( so not exactly ). He said to feather the switch. I told him that was fine as long as I remember or someone else operates the switch. Then he said maybe originals were the way to go.
What about my $500 dollars? Sorry they are out of warranty.
Larry, I’m surprised to hear this. I’ve put in over 2 dozen of their systems, and the old ones were simply too fast. The last couple of sets that I bought had a different motor and were almost as slow as the originals. In fact, sometimes you wonder if the window is ever going to close. Do you think you talked to somebody that was new, or didn’t know.Clearly the old motors could cut your arm off.
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Old Jun 30, 2020 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by TC233
Glad I found this thread, I thought I was the only one with this problem. When I got my car the power window motors were not only shot but they had been taken out of the car and piled neatly in a box "outside" for a few years. So when I got the box, I chucked the motors, which I should never had done, but I was made aware that motors could be had without issue. I installed the motors and I immediately was transported to medieval times where the guillotine was now being relived in my doors
I was always afraid that one day the window would pop the top of the coupe door off, or I would find the mechanism some where on the road below. This was my first C2 with power windows, so I thought we were all living with this mobile guillotine so said nothing
So, now I know this, I will look for replacement motors but of course like everyone else here, I really have no interest in replacing one guillotine with another. I would like to keep my original arms so do we have a "for sure" non decapitator available?
Wife said she had seen the motors in the storage unit. I said don't think so, she said yup, I said nope, she was right. I really thought I had chucked them, so tomorrow I strip the motors to find out if dead dead or dead or can be revived,
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