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Okay, I was able to spend some time last night with my '64 C2 headlight installation. I was able to feed the wires with ease through the pivot arm from the inner part of the headlight bucket.
I hooked up the drivers side first, and to my surprise BOTH lights came on! Running and the High Beam (when the floor button was pressed) Now, I was onto hooking up the passenger side, and came across an issue that has me baffled...I got it all hooked up, and everything looked good. When I pull the running light switch from the dash, Only the drivers side running light comes on. NOTHING from the passenger side whatsoever. Now... here's where it is strange... I press the high beam switch from inside the vehicle, and the high beam comes on as normal on the drivers side, and now the Running light bulb lights on the passenger side!
What could be the reason for that?? I was thinking maybe wires were put back into the connectors in the wrong spots, but I double and triple checked that, and it looks the same way as I took them off, prior to feeding them through the pivot hole in the housing. (see photo attached)
Photo is also what the bulbs look like when the high beam switch is depressed. When I click it off, the passenger side goes completely out, and the driver side remains normal.
Could it be faulty wiring (meaning the connecting points are dirty or corroded ?) Or the Headlight Bulbs are bad ? This car and it's parts have all been sitting for over 20 years, so at this point, anything is a possibility.
Thanks for any help here!! Passenger side running light Only works when High Beam switch is depressed. Headlight harness connection from bulbs to headlight harness behind grille.
Your picture shows the low beam Connector that goes outboard. The high beam connector only has two wires and goes to the inboard light. Your symptoms say that the passenger low beam light is mounted in the high beam location, but I didn’t think that was possible due to the indexing tabs and slots.
Swap bulbs side to side and see if the problem follows
Thanks Nowhere Man! So, you’re saying, just take the bulbs that I have In each bucket, and swap them? Example, move the bulbs from the right bucket to the left bucket, and vice-versa ?
Your picture shows the low beam Connector that goes outboard. The high beam connector only has two wires and goes to the inboard light. Your symptoms say that the passenger low beam light is mounted in the high beam location, but I didn’t think that was possible due to the indexing tabs and slots.
Thanks, Factoid.
Correct. I do have the right connectors going to each bulb, as the connections are 3 and 2. So, it was obvious which connector went to what bulb.
I have the Running light bulbs on the outside of the bucket, and the high beams on the inside of the bucket) which I also Just followed that schematic due to the length of wire given to hookup each bulb.
The wiring shouldn’t be an issue (hookup-wise) only thing I could Think of is that the wiring is old and not making could connection... or the bulbs are also old and probably bad ?!
The wiring, bulbs, and car have been sitting for over 20 years, so anything is a possibility.
Thanks again.
Last edited by CPVetteGuy64; Aug 7, 2020 at 11:19 AM.
CP, it sounds like the passenger low beam circuit is not working correctly. Could be as simple as the low beam filament is burned out (swap as Keith said above to test). Could be some corrosion on the connector or a broken wire. Remember, there are two filaments in the outboard light dim and bright. You symptoms indicate the dim or low beam filament is not working. The reason that lamp lights when in the high beam position is the other or bright filament is working properly.
To measure voltage set your meter scale to the scale where the range is greater than 12vdc. Connect your meter ground lead (black) to the connector black wire and the positive (red) lead to one of the other two. Turn on the headlights and observe the meter. If it reads between 12 and 13v it is good. Hit the high beam switch and it should either go to zero or if at zero now read 12 to 13v. Repeat on the other Pin of the connector. If one reads 12 to 13v when the other is zero and vice versa, your wiring is good and either the bulb is bad or you have corrosion in the connector. Good luck!
CP, it sounds like the passenger low beam circuit is not working correctly. Could be as simple as the low beam filament is burned out (swap as Keith said above to test). Could be some corrosion on the connector or a broken wire. Remember, there are two filaments in the outboard light dim and bright. You symptoms indicate the dim or low beam filament is not working. The reason that lamp lights when in the high beam position is the other or bright filament is working properly.
To measure voltage set your meter scale to the scale where the range is greater than 12vdc. Connect your meter ground lead (black) to the connector black wire and the positive (red) lead to one of the other two. Turn on the headlights and observe the meter. If it reads between 12 and 13v it is good. Hit the high beam switch and it should either go to zero or if at zero now read 12 to 13v. Repeat on the other Pin of the connector. If one reads 12 to 13v when the other is zero and vice versa, your wiring is good and either the bulb is bad or you have corrosion in the connector. Good luck!
Factoid, Thank you Much !!
I appreciate All that info. That helps me out tremendously. Trying to help my 76 year old Father get his Vette back together singlehandedly. Got a lot done in a shirt amount of time. This electrical stuff always has me baffled. But, I appreciate the knowledge and helping me help my Father. That, I am grateful for.
'64 Headlight Install Issue - Need Help!
