adding 65 BB POWER brake booster question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 116
Likes: 13
From: Hard times, MS.
adding 65 BB POWER brake booster question
I am currently starting to add a power brake booster to my BB 65, the question I have, are the 2 mounting bolts/ studs that connect the old pedal box to the Master cylinder, how do you remove the 2 studs from the pedal box,, power booster all-ready has the 2 studs in place. are these studs pressed in or can I drive them out with a mallet? (BFH) the ones on the power booster are "pressed in ?" the same as the old studs from the pedal box,, which 2 studs' need /should be removed, the ones from the pedal box, or the new booster to fire wall of course no directions and the AM does address this issue for me. If anyone has done this conversion please advise. Much Appreciated.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 54,155
Likes: 9,464
From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
if memory serves me you remove the ones on the pedal box and they are pressed in like wheel studs. don't forget to remove the return spring in the pedal box for the brake pedal
Advanced
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 52
Likes: 25
From: Florida
As Nowhere Man says you punch out the studs in the pedal box. Note that the clevis on the booster does not go into the same upper hole on the pedal arm as the manual brake clevis. The booster clevis goes in the lower hole. The upper hole is then used for a brake switch striker plate, which you may be able to do without since the switch will likely strike the pedal arm anyways. You will have to adjust the switch to ensure proper brake light function. If you have an AIM refer to options UPC J50 for assembly detail.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 116
Likes: 13
From: Hard times, MS.
As Nowhere Man says you punch out the studs in the pedal box. Note that the clevis on the booster does not go into the same upper hole on the pedal arm as the manual brake clevis. The booster clevis goes in the lower hole. The upper hole is then used for a brake switch striker plate, which you may be able to do without since the switch will likely strike the pedal arm anyways. You will have to adjust the switch to ensure proper brake light function. If you have an AIM refer to options UPC J50 for assembly detail.
Advanced
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 52
Likes: 25
From: Florida
No need to remove pedal bracket, just hammer out the two studs. They have serrations on the shank where they go thru the bracket and are just a light press in. Pretty easy to hammer them thru from the outside. They will fall out on inside. Put a nut on the end of stud to hammer on to avoid damaging thread in the event you wish to save them. If you have trouble, check to make sure someone hasn't welded them in on the back side, I have seen this done before. If that's the case you likely will have to remove the pedal bracket.
Last edited by edupere; Sep 4, 2020 at 06:06 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 116
Likes: 13
From: Hard times, MS.
No need to remove pedal bracket, just hammer out the two studs. They have serrations on the shank where they go thru the bracket and are just a light press in. Pretty easy to hammer them thru from the outside. They will fall out on inside. Put a nut on the end of stud to hammer on to avoid damaging thread in the event you wish to save them. If you have trouble, check to make sure someone hasn't welded them in on the back side, I have seen this done before. If that's the case you likely will have to remove the pedal bracket.
Advanced
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 52
Likes: 25
From: Florida
Thanks, they punched out a-lot easier then i thought they would. One more question, someone mentioned that the brake pedal return spring needs to be removed ??? i don't have a typical coiled spring on my brake lever, just the one at the very top of the pedal box a wound type spring, not sure way it would have to be removed. Thoughts, thanks again!
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
5 Best & 5 Worst Corvette Daily Drivers
Joe Kucinski
The Headlights of Every Corvette Generation Explained
Joe Kucinski
5 Best & 5 Most Overrated Corvette Track Packages of All Time!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2027 Corvette Engine Explained
Joe Kucinski
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Verdad Gallardo
10 Ugly Corvettes That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 54,155
Likes: 9,464
From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
Advanced
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 52
Likes: 25
From: Florida
Yes, if your car has NCRS judging in its future you should remove the spring since they weren't used in original 65 & up PB cars. However, leaving it in won't hurt function at all. If your car is a driver its easier to leave it in.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 116
Likes: 13
From: Hard times, MS.
completed the Power brake Addition to my 65 BB, WOWOW! what a difference!!! the car now brakes (almost) as good as a modern car! never imagined it would make such a HUGE difference in braking, drivability, and confidence, its a new car .
Thanks for all the help and advice with this project!
Mark
Thanks for all the help and advice with this project!
Mark
Racer
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 405
Likes: 108
From: Somers, MT
C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified 2020
C2 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
Anyone know where to find a set of those press in studs? During my restoration one of mine went misplaced. Searched most of the parts catalogs for a set of those!