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[C2] Electrically Dead '67

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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 06:45 PM
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Default Electrically Dead '67

Put a new Group 24 battery in my 67 Corvette 327/300. All was well. But now, NO electrical distribution...??? Battery shows 12.8v. But, No starter, no lights, no horn, no nothing. Fuses look good. Is there a fuse-able link or ??? Kindly contribute...Thank you in advance. Dave
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 06:48 PM
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When that happened to me two weeks ago it was the firewall connector loose. Right below the steering column under the hood.
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 06:54 PM
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The horn would still work if it was the firewall connector. And yes, the 67 has a couple of fusible links., One at the starter.


Last edited by 65GGvert; Sep 13, 2020 at 06:40 AM.
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 09:20 PM
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Check out your battery cables
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 09:27 PM
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Thank you all...that'll give me a few places to look. I'll let you know. Thanks!!!
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 09:31 PM
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Of note...I can hear the horn relay clicking...but no horn sound. No lights or turn signals. Go figure...???
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Old Sep 13, 2020 | 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by cardiacboy
Of note...I can hear the horn relay clicking...but no horn sound. No lights or turn signals. Go figure...???
Different story, check the firewall connectors jbondfl mentioned above. May be a loose plug, loose wire, or corroded pin on the inboard connector where the large red wire is. IIt feeds power to the cabin and switches that operate all those things except the horn. Measure for 12v on the red wires on the horn relay, should be there if the horn clicks, but may be low. You may have two problems, horn plus connector, but you won't know until you measure voltage. If you have 12v at the horn relay and not at the fuse box, the red wire will probably be your problem.
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Old Sep 13, 2020 | 10:08 AM
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Try hooking jumper cables off a running vehicle into your new battery while it is still connected to your C2 system. See if that fires it. Someone may correct me on this but just because a battery reads 12v with a meter doesn’t mean it’s good enough to fire a car off.
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Old Sep 13, 2020 | 10:49 AM
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Great! Thanks!!
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Old Sep 13, 2020 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by ettev
Try hooking jumper cables off a running vehicle into your new battery while it is still connected to your C2 system. See if that fires it. Someone may correct me on this but just because a battery reads 12v with a meter doesn’t mean it’s good enough to fire a car off.
yes a parts store can do a load test and what CCA the battery has.
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Old Sep 13, 2020 | 08:38 PM
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You wouldn't be the first person to buy a new dead battery or one that had a coupla bad cells.

Last edited by C2nut; Sep 13, 2020 at 08:39 PM.
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Old Sep 13, 2020 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by C2nut
You wouldn't be the first person to buy a new dead battery or one that had a coupla bad cells.
He would have to get in line behind me. You make a great point. I was once fond of the NAPA commercial flooded cell battery because its black with 6 round caps and stands in well for the original. Bought several until they began failing early or in one case I bought it and didn't install for 6 months. By then it was stone dead and unrevivable. Another one kept illuminating the charging lamp on a 63 Ford and finally would not start the engine, high internal resistance and then a shorted cell. What you see for voltage across a battery is not indicitive of the current it can supply. Check all those other thing first, including a cable end that does not seat square on the posts. This can act just as you describe.

Dan
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 10:19 PM
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Thanks all!

Turns out that the fuse-able link wire into my horn relay was damaged while I was installing my radiator/fan shroud solo. I put on a new connector, reconnected it and viola!...all better. All works as before. Thanks again!
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