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I have a 57 that is currently under complete rebuild. I am considering taking it to the dark side. I really want to try the new GM Performance Parts LS engine that recently was released. It is a long block with rec port heads and LS6 cam rated at 450hp and about the same torque for $4200. I know I have to convert to side engine mounts. I would like to use the Holley dual plane intake and aftermarket FI TB. Now for the two big questions.
#1. Has anyone done this as my concern is low hood clearance. I really don’t want a hood scoop but know I may have to and that may nix the whole plan.
#2. I have a Jim Meyer front crossmember and oil pan LS uses the truck pan. If that does not work I know there are aftermarket pans for
muscle cars with rear sump. Concerned about clearance issues here also.
Lastly I know they make a plastic LS block to mock this up but it costs about $500 and you would still have to buy an intake and pan to see if it fits. $1k total investment for trial and error mock up seems like a lot. Just wondering if anyone has tried this and other things to consider I may have missed. Not interested in a discussion about LS vs sbc or resto vs mod. Just builder input.
Thanks in advance for any help
Hi Jon I am using the vette LS2 pan and with my Meyer suspension on its highest setting have 4” under the pan
Thanks Paul,
I not very familiar with the LS, I'm just old school I guess. Is the LS2 the Corvette Pan?
How is life across the pond, hope your project is coming along well.
Thanks
Jon
Thanks to all.
A friend made an interesting observation today. Buy the plastic mock up, use it and resell it when done, thinking I could get 1/2 price back or more to help soften the blow. https://www.ebay.com/itm/P-Ayr-Produ...s/383482906746
Here are the dimensions on the intake I am wanting to use.
For $500 for a mock up, you can just get a junkyard 5.3 motor. In that manner, you can mock up real motor mounts, exhaust, and cut the pan to fit.
I mocked up an LS motor (an L33---aluminum version of the LS327) in a '60 using a motor plate and the stock mounts. The exhaust manifolds are the sticky wicket, as the frame is really narrow at that point. A set of ZR1 manifolds (relatively cheap on the forum classifieds) can be modified to fit by cutting the flange off and re-welding them as block huggers. With the engine plate, you need to use a racing water pump with no heater outlets. I had kept the stock steering, but that was not really an issue, other than there was no place to put AC pump.
I had the motor mocked up in the car, but did not have the intake completed. There was, by my measurements, sufficient room to fit the low-rise cast manifold and Holly EFI unit using a short air filter that surrounded the EFI.
There are photos of the installation on this forum under my name, if you do a search. It was a lot of work to get it to fit and get a package for water pump to work, and to do it again I would go with either a SBC in a stock chassis, or an LS motor in an aftermarket frame. The benefits (run on pump gas, cut some front weight, cool factor of LS in a stock chassis) did not warrant the amount of effort and the car would still have a wet-noodle handling. For this car, I abandoned the LS motor for a 60's period-correct 327 to maintain the full C1 driving experience.
Thanks - Jbabek I went through all your old posts and looked at the pictures although some are no longer able to see and some of the links from you and others that responded to you do not work anymore I was able to gain a lot of insight into your project. I am really on the fence and understand what you and others are saying about just keep a sbc in the C1 and be done with it. Tried and true combination and certainly a lot less headache. Looking at the LS in your frame gives me a better idea on the headers I want to use. Have the rear dump instead of the center dump would be a big help for clearance issues I believe. As for the mounts I have some from Trans Dapt that are for a 53 Chevy SBC conversion that I think will work as the frame is nearly the same. This allows me to use the adapters offered by many with the stock side mounts plate to put a LS in many muscle cars. The reason I like these so much is if this does not work out it leaves me an exit strategy to put the sbc back in on these mounts. Steering clearance wont be an issue as I have the rack and pinion setup already installed. The only concern may be clearing the steering rod linkage from the column around the header to the r and p. I am still considering all the other problems that may pop up before I pull the trigger on this but am really liking it more and more. When you say cast iron intake I am not sure which one you are referring to but if I do get that far down the road and it becomes an issue I may just have to put a small hood scoop on for clearance although I would like to avoid that.
Thanks again for all your insight into this.
Jon
Wow, those are some really nice looking shorties, even with the tight fit they look awesome.
I see how you moved the bracket for the heim joint, I guess I can do that also if the Meyer setup does not fit.
Today at lunch I was exploring front serpentine belt set up because I want something really simple, no P/S, no A/C just an alt and water pump.
If you get a chance, could you give me a measurement from the top of the valley cover on the engine to a line from fender to fender side to side where the hood would meet the fender?
Appreciate it.
Thanks
Wow, those are some really nice looking shorties, even with the tight fit they look awesome.
I see how you moved the bracket for the heim joint, I guess I can do that also if the Meyer setup does not fit.
Today at lunch I was exploring front serpentine belt set up because I want something really simple, no P/S, no A/C just an alt and water pump.
If you get a chance, could you give me a measurement from the top of the valley cover on the engine to a line from fender to fender side to side where the hood would meet the fender?
Appreciate it.
Thanks
sorry Jon my body is still off the chassis and engine not installed yet(dealing with an oddball crank problem) 1 thing to keep in mind whatever serpentine system you use it has to match the dampner I.E corvette/firebirdcamaro/truck also besides the car/truck waterpump differences there can be some variation where the tensioner bolts to the waterpump i have used a few ICT BILLET parts for my build
sorry Jon my body is still off the chassis and engine not installed yet(dealing with an oddball crank problem) 1 thing to keep in mind whatever serpentine system you use it has to match the dampner I.E corvette/firebirdcamaro/truck also besides the car/truck waterpump differences there can be some variation where the tensioner bolts to the waterpump i have used a few ICT BILLET parts for my build
Sister Mary Francis!!! Is that going in a stock chassis car? You are insane!!!! Can't wait to see it finished....