Likewise, I did not remove the the transmission.
I disconnected it, while supported, and slid it rearwards to gain access.
Worked nicely.

Keep us posted!

 

Yes, I guess I misstated that. My thought was with the trans disconnected to move it into position to service the clutch, you're 80% of the way to removing the entire engine. Maybe I'm wrong there and it's more like only 50%...still pondering that as I research. I do have other things I want to do such as rebuild or replace the fuel pump, replace the headers and sidepipes and I'd also do some engine bay detailing if I go that far. Things to think about.

Thanks,
Rick

 

the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate are all attatched to the back of the block, as well as the pilot bushing that is pressed into the crank, the throw out bering is attatched to the bell housing, the transmission and bell housing stays in place supported by a jack, if you were doing it down below its a mix of disconnecting sliding back moving to the side, DansYellow66 has a great picture of what it looks like.

 

I think Gavin is saying that if your floor pan is not sagging down, etc, then you can (maybe) twist and shove the transmission far enough back over the cross member to get it out of the way and stable. Then unbolt the bell housing, slide it down and tilt the top back to work it out between the clutch and the pilot shaft. Then replace the clutch and reverse the process. I've wondered about this but never tried it. And if the pilot tip will not allow removing the bellhousing completely without removing the clutch first, you may be able to slide it back and hang it on the input collar and get enough room to replace the clutch. Have you actually done it this way Gavin?

Edit - looks like I missed some of the second page posts and some have done this. Good to know. Unfortunately all of my transmission pulls have been to work on the transmission and the clutch/flywheel were all sort of incidental.

 

There's a really fantastic Youtube video where the procedure Gavin is describing is performed in pretty good detail. I think this is what is being referred to. There are five videos in the series that shows from beginning to end. This was the original method I was considering, but he also completely drops and removes the transmission. I guess at that point you're 95% the way to removing it so why not. Video is here:

 

you feel me Dan.

 

Personally, I think it easier to leave the engine in place. To pull the engine, you have to remove the radiator and shroud, and then there are a bunch of wires, hoses, and fluids to mess with. If you have power steering and/or air conditioning, there are even more things to disconnect and move out of the way.

If you put the car up about two feet on jack stands, it's pretty straightforward to get the trans out. As a substitute for a strong helper, I really like this 3-axis transmission jack from Harbor freight:

https://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb...nsmission+jack



The key features of this jack are those two ***** in the photo. In addition to changing just the height, the transmission can be tilted in any direction, and can remain in that position as long as you like. It's like having an infinitely strong and infinitely patient helper.

I have used this jack to install a TKO 600 5-speed with the engine in my car. That installation is far more complicated than a stock 4-speed.

 

Hi all, I just did mine (64 327) Standard exhaust with a lift and a transmission jack. Still wasn't fun. My Trans needed an input shaft bearing, seals and gaskets. I also wanted to drill and tap for a magnetic drain plug. It Also had a broken 5/16" bolt on one on the shift fork holders for the shift linkage. It had about 3 threads left on it, Just enough to tighten the nut somewhat. I was always worried about that coming loose. I'm not sure of the proper name for that particular part. The replacement part had the upgraded 3/8" shank on it. The other one was already replaced at one time. I replaced the clutch parts with Centerforce which was one of the recommended brands on the forum. New fork spring release bearing retainer(anti rattle) and boot for the clutch fork, New pilot bearing and rear tranny mount, I decided not to pull engine. I removed the bell housing. This was my first time doing this job so there's a learning curve. Next time should be alittle easier. If I were 10 years younger I would install the flange kit for the cross member. Hoping that i don't have to mess with this again for a long while. I bought a gallon of GL4 gear oil which is not that easy to find anymore. I'm really pleased with the way it all turned out. Smooth as a goose. I procrastinate this job for awhile but it's history now. I'm not sure which way is easier, But If it needed some minor engine work, I would have gone the other way...