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7.818 inches. I believe they're nominally all the same. You may have to correct for block decking, head milling, but otherwise there's no difference among motors
Thanks again to everyone helping work through this. Another questions - head bolts. Replace them or use the installed ones again?
Attached is a picture of the ones that I have installed. They have a circle with an F in the middle. Also they are painted with some yellow dab of paint. Any idea what that's all about?
I don't recall every buying new head bolts for a SB Chevy to be used on the street. They are not torqued to yield like new engines and therefore have not even begun to stretch at the factory torque. I do use hardened washers under the bolt heads to obtain consistent torque and help prevent splitting the outside row of holes on the SB heads.
I agree, the paint is to mark completed torque.
Others might know, but you have aftermarket roller tip rockers. They may or may not use the standard SB push rod. If you can find a mark on them, I would consult the manufacturer. I know the aluminum full roller rockers I have use .100 longer push rods (I think).
Last edited by R66; Nov 27, 2020 at 07:02 AM.
Reason: rockers
Below are the new heads that I will be installing. As you can see, they have the non-roller rockers. In the end, this should take me back to completely stock arrangement. The existing heads have the roller rockers, which is why I am looking for the right push rods now. As for the roller rockers - they were crane cams rockers and the rollers wouldn't "roll" very well. They had some radial free play that prevented me from getting consistent gap readings when I was doing the lash.
Head bolts - anyone know what the circle F bolts are? Are they correct? (I'm starting to doubt many things about the existing heads and the work that was done that got me to this point)
For the washers - do you happen to know the size you use off the top of your head? (pun intended)
If you use the washers they must be hardened ones to hold the torque. Check out ARP, they sell them separate from bolt kits. On an iron head you don't really need them, just make sure the head bolt thread is clean and sealed, and the bottom side of the bolt head and head mating surface are clean and free of burrs. And use a dab of moly under the bolt head to head contact surface.
Back to pushrod length if you can determine the block or heads have not been decked or surfaced and you use a standard composite head gasket, around .039" compressed, you should be ok with stock length pushrods. I say this because if your are going back to the stock rocker arms there is a lot of "wiggle" room on pushrod length because of the flat surface that contacts the valve stem, unlike a roller rocker.
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C1 push rod kength
