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[C2] Red Wire Syndrome Solution

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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 10:41 AM
  #21  
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Wonder if replacing ALL 50+ year old wire harnesses with new upgraded wire harnesses would solve this problem?
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
There is a Mad Electric tech article discussing exactly that approach..
frankie, i couldn't find it, by any chance do you have a link? thanks.
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 10:52 AM
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This may be the one Frankie is referring to...
http://madelectrical.com/electricalt...-gauges2.shtml

While for a slightly different manifestation of the issue, the purpose and methods are similar.

Steve
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
Since this is a common ailment of these cars, why would anyone think a replacement harness of the same design wouldn't have the same problem? Some of these cars had this problem when they were 5-7 years old.

A permanent fix is to simply run a jumper wire around the firewall connection and eliminate the possibility of a bad connection. This was common practice long ago. Still good idea today unless you just want new and exciting.
Originally Posted by CorvetteMikeB
Wonder if replacing ALL 50+ year old wire harnesses with new upgraded wire harnesses would solve this problem?
What is upgraded about it? Seems to me, that connector isn't robust enough to handle the current going through it.

I'm not talking about the possible need to replace and old harness or keep it. Talking about design/materials.
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 67*427
This may be the one Frankie is referring to...
http://madelectrical.com/electricalt...-gauges2.shtml

While for a slightly different manifestation of the issue, the purpose and methods are similar.

Steve
interesting, but does away with the ammeter, perhaps no great loss. thanks for the link.
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 01:58 PM
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That's what I meant by different manifestation of the issue. What that points out is how they went through the firewall. If you do it like I described, the original "battery" meter still works just as it did from GM. Going through the firewall of a Corvette is less risky than a steel car because the fiberglass is non conductive. Therefore no shorts.
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
And putting a copper penny in the old style home glass fuse boxes worked -- until it didn't...
Good to see you back onboard, Frank!👍

Steve
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by RatDog
Good to see you back onboard, Frank!👍

Steve
It is a challenge, so forgive typos and occasional nonsensical sentences


Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Dec 5, 2020 at 06:15 AM.
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
Mike I think there is a GM service builtin telling techs to do just that

Do you have a copy of this Bulletin for us Forum Members to read?
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by CorvetteMikeB
Do you have a copy of this Bulletin for us Forum Members to read?
no I don’t. I think I remember seeing one poster a long time ago. But in short it said to do what Mike suggested above. By just by-passing the fuse block terminal and just splicing together. While it is a flawed design many cars have made 60 years without problems. Why some cars have the trouble and others don’t is behind my scope of electrical knowledge. If your trying to fix problems you don’t have yet your never “fix” your car.
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
no I don’t. I think I remember seeing one poster a long time ago. But in short it said to do what Mike suggested above. By just by-passing the fuse block terminal and just splicing together. While it is a flawed design many cars have made 60 years without problems. Why some cars have the trouble and others don’t is behind my scope of electrical knowledge. If your trying to fix problems you don’t have yet your never “fix” your car.
Now there's a quote for the ages.

Steve
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 06:22 PM
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Yogi Berra!
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 3154tm
interesting, but does away with the ammeter, perhaps no great loss. thanks for the link.
Dodge didnt use a shunt style ampmeter as the C2 did. Which means all the current the car needs passes thu the ampmeter. Which could melt it and leave the car stranded (A series circuit). Bad idea. That design Definitely melted the firewall connector for sure over time though. A Shunt design (C2) measures for a voltage drop in the power supply part of the harness (A parallel circuit) and will not leave the car stranded because of the low voltage/current that passes through it. Though all the current still passes through the firewall and exposes its weakness.
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
no I don’t. I think I remember seeing one poster a long time ago. But in short it said to do what Mike suggested above. By just by-passing the fuse block terminal and just splicing together. While it is a flawed design many cars have made 60 years without problems. Why some cars have the trouble and others don’t is behind my scope of electrical knowledge. If your trying to fix problems you don’t have yet your never “fix” your car.
I have a feeling it's a corrosion issue exploiting the weak design - when the connection gets a little corrosion, the resistance (and the heat produced) is the result. If you happen to have one that made it without too much corrosion then you're one of the lucky ones that doesn't get a melted connector.
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by BD104X
I have a feeling it's a corrosion issue exploiting the weak design - when the connection gets a little corrosion, the resistance (and the heat produced) is the result. If you happen to have one that made it without too much corrosion then you're one of the lucky ones that doesn't get a melted connector.
well there was a reason why GM used some sort of tar type sealant around the bulk head connector on all cars and trucks not just Corvettes. wonder of how many people had trouble has previously opened up the bulk head connector for some reason
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 67*427
When I did the Vintage Air in my car, I addressed the "Red Wire" problem along with their "incorrect ammeter reading".. Here are my notes from that fix.
.
I like it, is that easier than running to the bus inside the fuse block?
Mopars have a similar issue - we run a #10 from the alt lug to the starter relay with a fusible link. It makes the ammeter less accurate but everything works better, blower to dash lights. Powering the whole car, everything but the horn via one conductor passing through a plastic connector with Rinke dink pins is stupid. But easy on the assembly line.

Dan
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 08:59 PM
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Never looked at trying to connect to the fuse block but the headlamp motor breaker is very near the fuse box and since it's a very high current line, I figured tying the new wire there was a good choice. It's been in place now for a number of years and works fine.

Steve
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 09:14 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 67*427
Never looked at trying to connect to the fuse block but the headlamp motor breaker is very near the fuse box and since it's a very high current line, I figured tying the new wire there was a good choice. It's been in place now for a number of years and works fine.
Steve
I believe I've seen photos of guys running right to the block bus but I agree with you it is far easier to run to the breaker lug. The load is now shared with both feeds though you may never know if the original fails. Run it in #10 black go to the horn relay, hide it behind existing harness use black shrink wrap over plastic connectors...should be able to do that even as feeble as I am now. Need to find an existing hole to get through the firewall. Thanks for the tip. It will be a winter project. I'll stretch it out....

Dan
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 09:17 PM
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Dan,
I'd suggest going right to the alternator. That way, you minimize the load on the wire from the alternator TO the horn relay and it's actually a shorter run ... at least on my car with the alternator on the driver's side.

Steve
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 09:28 PM
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Steve-
I have a 396 so mine is too, It can be argued however that the regulator will better respond to system loads if it sees everything as it does pinned to the horn relay. Your way is how I wire a Mopar. I'll look at that, thanks.

Dan
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