When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Since this is a common ailment of these cars, why would anyone think a replacement harness of the same design wouldn't have the same problem? Some of these cars had this problem when they were 5-7 years old.
A permanent fix is to simply run a jumper wire around the firewall connection and eliminate the possibility of a bad connection. This was common practice long ago. Still good idea today unless you just want new and exciting.
Originally Posted by CorvetteMikeB
Wonder if replacing ALL 50+ year old wire harnesses with new upgraded wire harnesses would solve this problem?
What is upgraded about it? Seems to me, that connector isn't robust enough to handle the current going through it.
I'm not talking about the possible need to replace and old harness or keep it. Talking about design/materials.
That's what I meant by different manifestation of the issue. What that points out is how they went through the firewall. If you do it like I described, the original "battery" meter still works just as it did from GM. Going through the firewall of a Corvette is less risky than a steel car because the fiberglass is non conductive. Therefore no shorts.
Do you have a copy of this Bulletin for us Forum Members to read?
no I don’t. I think I remember seeing one poster a long time ago. But in short it said to do what Mike suggested above. By just by-passing the fuse block terminal and just splicing together. While it is a flawed design many cars have made 60 years without problems. Why some cars have the trouble and others don’t is behind my scope of electrical knowledge. If your trying to fix problems you don’t have yet your never “fix” your car.
no I don’t. I think I remember seeing one poster a long time ago. But in short it said to do what Mike suggested above. By just by-passing the fuse block terminal and just splicing together. While it is a flawed design many cars have made 60 years without problems. Why some cars have the trouble and others don’t is behind my scope of electrical knowledge. If your trying to fix problems you don’t have yet your never “fix” your car.
interesting, but does away with the ammeter, perhaps no great loss. thanks for the link.
Dodge didnt use a shunt style ampmeter as the C2 did. Which means all the current the car needs passes thu the ampmeter. Which could melt it and leave the car stranded (A series circuit). Bad idea. That design Definitely melted the firewall connector for sure over time though. A Shunt design (C2) measures for a voltage drop in the power supply part of the harness (A parallel circuit) and will not leave the car stranded because of the low voltage/current that passes through it. Though all the current still passes through the firewall and exposes its weakness.
no I don’t. I think I remember seeing one poster a long time ago. But in short it said to do what Mike suggested above. By just by-passing the fuse block terminal and just splicing together. While it is a flawed design many cars have made 60 years without problems. Why some cars have the trouble and others don’t is behind my scope of electrical knowledge. If your trying to fix problems you don’t have yet your never “fix” your car.
I have a feeling it's a corrosion issue exploiting the weak design - when the connection gets a little corrosion, the resistance (and the heat produced) is the result. If you happen to have one that made it without too much corrosion then you're one of the lucky ones that doesn't get a melted connector.
I have a feeling it's a corrosion issue exploiting the weak design - when the connection gets a little corrosion, the resistance (and the heat produced) is the result. If you happen to have one that made it without too much corrosion then you're one of the lucky ones that doesn't get a melted connector.
well there was a reason why GM used some sort of tar type sealant around the bulk head connector on all cars and trucks not just Corvettes. wonder of how many people had trouble has previously opened up the bulk head connector for some reason
When I did the Vintage Air in my car, I addressed the "Red Wire" problem along with their "incorrect ammeter reading".. Here are my notes from that fix. .
I like it, is that easier than running to the bus inside the fuse block?
Mopars have a similar issue - we run a #10 from the alt lug to the starter relay with a fusible link. It makes the ammeter less accurate but everything works better, blower to dash lights. Powering the whole car, everything but the horn via one conductor passing through a plastic connector with Rinke dink pins is stupid. But easy on the assembly line.
Never looked at trying to connect to the fuse block but the headlamp motor breaker is very near the fuse box and since it's a very high current line, I figured tying the new wire there was a good choice. It's been in place now for a number of years and works fine.
Never looked at trying to connect to the fuse block but the headlamp motor breaker is very near the fuse box and since it's a very high current line, I figured tying the new wire there was a good choice. It's been in place now for a number of years and works fine.
Steve
I believe I've seen photos of guys running right to the block bus but I agree with you it is far easier to run to the breaker lug. The load is now shared with both feeds though you may never know if the original fails. Run it in #10 black go to the horn relay, hide it behind existing harness use black shrink wrap over plastic connectors...should be able to do that even as feeble as I am now. Need to find an existing hole to get through the firewall. Thanks for the tip. It will be a winter project. I'll stretch it out....
Dan,
I'd suggest going right to the alternator. That way, you minimize the load on the wire from the alternator TO the horn relay and it's actually a shorter run ... at least on my car with the alternator on the driver's side.
Steve-
I have a 396 so mine is too, It can be argued however that the regulator will better respond to system loads if it sees everything as it does pinned to the horn relay. Your way is how I wire a Mopar. I'll look at that, thanks.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.