rust treatment recommendation
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 318
From: Longmont Colorado
rust treatment recommendation
I had some suspension pieces with surface rust and wanted to chemically treat the rust prior to paint. I came across Corroseal, primarily used in the marine industry, and wow is this stuff great. You use a foam brush to coat the metal and it turns black as it treats any rust and then is ready for paint. Highly recommended and available on Amazon.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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Melting Slicks<br><img src="/forums/images/ranks/3k-4k.gif" border="0">
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Colorado Springs Colorado
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[QUOTE=Nowhere Man;1602617663]The best thing to prevent rust is to stop driving the car in foul weather.[/QUOTE
With that logic, the best way to prevent any damage is to stop driving the car at all! 😂😂😂
With that logic, the best way to prevent any damage is to stop driving the car at all! 😂😂😂
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,730
Likes: 92
From: Lakeland FL
[QUOTE=warrenmj;1602618097]
That is why so many Corvettes travel in trailers instead of risking rust by driving in the rain.
BTW, POR 15 is great stuff as long as you don't get any on your skin.....
That is why so many Corvettes travel in trailers instead of risking rust by driving in the rain.
BTW, POR 15 is great stuff as long as you don't get any on your skin.....
Last edited by toms silver 60; Dec 5, 2020 at 01:40 PM.
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Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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[QUOTE=warrenmj;1602618097]
yes that helps the most But we all know letting a car sit can do more damage then driving it.
But we all know letting a car sit can do more damage then driving it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: NJ Hockey beer league
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,730
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From: Lakeland FL
[QUOTE=Pilot Dan;1602618681][QUOTE=toms silver 60;1602618131]
Yea, I don't know why they have not come out with a skin tone shade yet[/QUOTE
Not necessarily-
If you are Caucasian, just get used to it. If you have African ancestry, it is skin tone!
POR15 is pricey, so if you have any left over, store in smallest container possible and/ or cover top of liquid with plastic film to keep it from setting up. If painted surface is exposed to sunlight, you must protect surface with another protective coating. Great stuff for frames.
Yea, I don't know why they have not come out with a skin tone shade yet
[/QUOTENot necessarily-
If you are Caucasian, just get used to it. If you have African ancestry, it is skin tone!
POR15 is pricey, so if you have any left over, store in smallest container possible and/ or cover top of liquid with plastic film to keep it from setting up. If painted surface is exposed to sunlight, you must protect surface with another protective coating. Great stuff for frames.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Plymouth MA
C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified 2020
Kbs
I have used KBS Rust Seal on the frame of my '64 Coupe, after sandblasting.
Three years later it has held up nicely.
It is extremely hard, shines nicely.
It is, however, not UV resistant.
Three years later it has held up nicely.
It is extremely hard, shines nicely.
It is, however, not UV resistant.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,443
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From: Indy Indiana
por 15 is a paint over rust solution also. sure it works great also when you sand blast all the rust away and paint over metal.. but i would only coat over rust if I had to.. ( like around nooks and crannies that the blaster can't get to)
dipping the part in caustic solution will immerse it all and kill all the rust, but the bigger the part, the more it costs. plus I would bet that the old companies that do this are out of business ( redi-strip?)
plus its transport there and back and probably 1000$ plus for a frame for example... PITA
do your research on the por 15 web site, plus sites will sand blast for you also. but they will charge as much as you are willing to pay
dipping the part in caustic solution will immerse it all and kill all the rust, but the bigger the part, the more it costs. plus I would bet that the old companies that do this are out of business ( redi-strip?)
plus its transport there and back and probably 1000$ plus for a frame for example... PITA
do your research on the por 15 web site, plus sites will sand blast for you also. but they will charge as much as you are willing to pay
Racer
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 388
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From: New Berlin
On the "Steel Car Sites" there is controversy about Por 15. I used it in places on our Jaguar - which was electro dipped or had brand new panels (reproduction). The steel was 100% rust free and chemically treated with various Phosphoric acid treatments. Users around the world using Por 15 on many cars, objects and circumstances have reported mixed results. Some said you need a rough surface, either clean or with slight rust. Some say acid pre treat needed. Me, personally would at times find adhesion issues under runs (after filling boxed in areas - the stuff leaks out from seams, etc.). One of the urban myths is the product was developed as gymnasium floor paint.
The only real complaint regards adhesion. Putting reports together it seems very smooth surfaces with the least bit of oil or grease won't accept the Por15. I suspect based on personal experience that some Phosphate 'chalk' residue, which doesn't seem to bother epoxy or standard primers, causes issues with Por15
The only real complaint regards adhesion. Putting reports together it seems very smooth surfaces with the least bit of oil or grease won't accept the Por15. I suspect based on personal experience that some Phosphate 'chalk' residue, which doesn't seem to bother epoxy or standard primers, causes issues with Por15
Race Director
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From: San Antonio, TX/Mahopac, NY
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I’m not a POR15 fan. I’ve had too many issues with it over the years. Never had an issues with Eastwood rust converter, but I would rather use a phosphoric acid rust solution, rinse it well and apply a two part epoxy primer, then top cot. That said, I used Eastwood’s silver rust converter on the frame of my ‘64 coupe. Worked really well once I removed all the dust, grease and oil. Was the best solution for my frame where I was only lifting the body, prepping and coating one side at a time and couldn’t blast or remove all the rust prior to painting.
