Use a long, or two put together 1/2" drive extensions with the female end on the stud end for a driver bar.

 

Sorry for all the questions, but in addition to the questions above, I thought of one more: What torque should I use on the the screw in studs?

 

ARP is best IMHO. Don't forget you need to flatten the top of the boss where the underside of the screw in stud contacts the surface. ARP will give you the torque

 

Sources for screw-in studs is a crap shoot today. Finding quality made USA parts like this is sometimes difficult.
I use both the white and blue Permatex sealers in a can with a brush in the lid.








Back in the ancient days, we used to "pin" pressed-in studs with a roll pin. First drill ALL THE WAY THROUGH both the boss and the stud. Then drive the appropriate size roll pin into both the boss and stud. It is very important the hole be drilled all the way through just in case someday the pin needs to be driven out so that the pressed-in stud can be removed. SOME guys (translate dummies) would only drill through one side of the boss and the pin. Consequently, there was no way to drive out the pin later if necessary. DUH!
Now, with all that said, if the heads are off the engine, my choice is to have a machine shop cut down the stud bosses, tap them for screw-in studs and install guide plates and screw-in studs.
I KNOW, that most, if not all, aftermarket heads come with screw-in studs and guide plates, but if it is desirable (for whatever reason) to retain a set of heads, that is the BEST way to go. I have it done to all my stock heads that I want to keep.

This is typical of what I have done to bone stock heads that I want to keep.
These heads are stock GM SB400 heads (they were EXCELLENT cores) which we had lightly worked for a roller cam SB400 for my son's 73 Corvette. Runs STRONG!

 

Don’t machine the boss and don’t use ARP. Use these:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...make/chevrolet

Also, this tool got better reviews, but all are a bit suspect:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900136?rrec=true

Your 3/8” stud boss requires a 7/16-14 tap.

 

Like Factoid said you don't machine the boss. That has to be done in a machine not by hand. Tap it use the Pioneer studs with red Loctite. Do not do not torque the stud. Just jam it down snug with double nuts. If you attempt to torque it the taper on the stud WILL split the boss.

 

Thanks! order placed.

 

Thanks Robert. I ordered the tool and studs Factoid recommended. As it turns out, the Locktite I have is the red thread locker (# 263) and blue thread locker (#243), not thee thread sealant (# 545). I'll check around for the Locktite thread sealer.

Again, I appreciate everyone's help!

Alan

 

Thread locker is fine, even better.